Make Joshua Tree Great Again


Original Post
Jt Loco · Feb 24, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 0
..downgrade the climbs to be more in line with red rocks...then i will feel better about myself.

Tyler Lomprey · Feb 24, 2016 · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 5
i always hear these comments, RR ratings are soft, jtree is sandbagged.

These two great areas are where i've spent my majority of climbing time.

I can think of a long list of lines out in RR whose grades and serious nature will have you strongly reconsider that place as a cupcake sport clip up.

Next time in RR; seek out a Paul Van Betten or Joe Herbst route.

Locker · Feb 24, 2016 · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,635
It is true that many of the ratings at Red Rock don't add up to the numbers given ("Soft").

It is also very true that many of the routes in Joshua Tree were given ratings that today are referred to as "Sandbagged".

In both cases, there are plenty of exceptions.

NeilB · Feb 24, 2016 · Tehachapi, CA · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 30
Does the grade of a climb really have anything to do with it's "greatness"?
Seems like there are great and not so great climbs with many variations in difficulty in many different locales.

Locker · Feb 24, 2016 · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,635
"Does the grade of a climb really have anything to do with it's "greatness"?"

When overinflated ego is involved it does.

Other than that, hell no it doesn't!

Christopher Rein · Feb 29, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 10
Joshua Tree grades aren't sandbagged. They seem to be pretty in line with other awesome climbing spots like the valley. Just get out there and have fun.

Chris Owen · Mar 2, 2016 · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 9,518
Isn't Open Book the standard 5.9? So go climb that and see how other 5.9s stack up to it.

Locker · Mar 2, 2016 · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,635
"Joshua Tree grades aren't sandbagged. They seem to be pretty in line with other awesome climbing spots like the valley"

Do a bit of research and you'll discover why.

Weston L · Mar 2, 2016 · Summerlin, NV · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 728
Tyler Lomprey wrote:i always hear these comments, RR ratings are soft, jtree is sandbagged. These two great areas are where i've spent my majority of climbing time. I can think of a long list of lines out in RR whose grades and serious nature will have you strongly reconsider that place as a cupcake sport clip up. Next time in RR; seek out a Paul Van Betten or Joe Herbst route.
This.

Christopher Rein · Mar 4, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 10
Locker, I know that there was a lot of overlap around ascensionists and when major routes in those two places were established. My major point is that JTree ratings aren't sandbagged, since you should know what to expect compared to other major destinations in CA.

Locker · Mar 4, 2016 · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,635
"My major point is that JTree ratings aren't sandbagged, since you should know what to expect compared to other major destinations in CA."

Why/how should people inherently KNOW what to expect, having never been to an area?

Most younger climbers I know are not aware of the "overlap" you speak of (and are correct about).

Someone that gym climbs or climbs places like The Alabama Hills (and similar), will be in for quite a surprise leading their first 5.8 at JT/Yos/Tahquitz/Suicide.

Not sure if I am making sense or not at the moment. I'll post and see what happens.

LOL!

S.Mckinna · Mar 4, 2016 · Cañon City, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,405
I have only been to J-Tree once and felt the grades were right on par with many other areas I have climbed. Dappled Mare and The Overseer and sport routes in Siberia to name a few

Christopher Rein · Mar 4, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 10
That's fair, Locker. I totally agree that someone who is coming from the gym or somewhere like Red Rock (where I admittedly have not climbed) could be in for a surprise at the grades.

I guess I'm probably relying too much on personal experience and someone from somewhere else may feel jtree is relatively hard compared to their normal crag. The useful bit of my perspective probably only applies to people visiting Jtree and are used to trad in CA. My revised point could be for people who have climbed at places like Donner Summit, the Leap, Yosemite, Hulk, Needles, etc. I don't think Joshua Tree grades will feel sandbagged if that's what you expect.

Haha, sound reasonable?

Locker · Mar 4, 2016 · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,635
Christopher,

I do believe that we are basically on the same page.

So yes, sounds quite reasonable.

Tom Nyce · Mar 4, 2016 · Flagstaff, AZ · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 0
Locker wrote:"My major point is that JTree ratings aren't sandbagged, since you should know what to expect compared to other major destinations in CA." Why/how should people inherently KNOW what to expect, having never been to an area? Most younger climbers I know are not aware of the "overlap" you speak of (and are correct about). Someone that gym climbs or climbs places like The Alabama Hills (and similar), will be in for quite a surprise leading their first 5.8 at JT/Yos/Tahquitz/Suicide. Not sure if I am making sense or not at the moment. I'll post and see what happens. LOL!
Sure, you are making sense. JT has mostly solid ratings.
On the other hand, JT has a huge number of climbs, established over a very long period of time. So, it seems expected to have larger rating variability than other areas.

S.Mckinna · Mar 4, 2016 · Cañon City, CO · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,405
Not that Durango CO is a climbing destination but out there a + on the rating should strike fear in whoever chooses to climb those routes. That is how I approached the routes I climbed in J-tree and other destination climbing areas. Now that I am around Shelf Road I am constantly downgrading routes. If travelers want to fluff their egos they should climb Shelf:)

jellybean · Mar 5, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0
In my experience J-tree's sub 11 climbs seem to be sandbagged. My buddy's guidebook gave bouldering grades in V 0.something. I've never seem V 0 broken down in any other guidebook. Anyway most Josh climbers love to here that the grades are stiff. As the numbers get higher they begin to equal out. It's just a J-tree thing?

Locker · Mar 10, 2016 · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 1,635
I got spit off a supposed 10c yesterday.

Knowing the FA'ist personally, yep, "Sandbagged".

LOL!

"Make Locker Great Again!!!"

and the secret word of the day is,

TOAST

Steve Williams · Mar 10, 2016 · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 0
Make Locker Great Again!!!

Rolf Rybak · Mar 14, 2016 · BC · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 121
Make Locker Toast Again!

SRB25 · Mar 14, 2016 · Woodside, ca · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
HALLELUJAH MAKE LOCKER GREAT AGAIN!!!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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