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Funkness device

Original Post
David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Hi,
I have a hammer without a funkness device. If I used a length of old dyneema sling would it do the job, or would the sling snap, or be too stretchy?

Thanks.

rocknice2 · · Montreal, QC · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,847

While the Dyneema will be better than a nylon sling, nothing will beat a steel cable. The sling won't break but it'll require stronger hammer blows to eject pins and stuff. I've use one in a pinch but I certainly wouldn't want to do anything more than a pitch of two.

r m · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

I too am lacking a funkness device, I've thought the same.

In terms of stretch for the pure materials dyneema and steel are in the same ball park for stretchiness (170GPa vs ~200GPa) so it doesn't seem all that unrealistic. The twist in the steel cable and the weave of the sling will no doubt have a substantial effect.

How were you thinking of connecting the sling? I recall trying a dyneema sling girth hitched to the head, but I suspect that connection was bad at transferring the impact force. If I try again I'll use some combination of sewing/knotting to connect to the hammer.

On the other hand, if I get into swaging things then I can make a normal funkness device *and* put small wire loops on some of my pitons so they rack more nicely.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

You could buy one of these? Or it might be an amusing quest to find someone who owns one?

amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s…

Moof · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 25

A spectra/dynema sling works fine but not for many pieces, but indeed they are toast pretty quick. I had a partner who did that and it looked pretty mank. Make sure it won't end up mixed up in your other stuff, same goes for the sacrificial biners on each end.

All that said I think I have used my funkness all of 2 or 3 times over a dozen wall.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Ha, not sure why I keep trying to get you to spend money when that wasn't your stated goal, but for $7.80 plus shipping...

backcountrygear.com/yates-p…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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