Master Point Carabiners

If I'm gonna be doing a lot of top roping, should I invest in some steel lockers for the anchor master point instead of the typical aluminum? I figure steel will last longer.

Something like this: camp-usa.com/products/carab…

Won't hurt, but aluminum should last you years.

How much is a lot? Just use regular biners from your rack and if you wear them out really fast then you can get steel ones next time. If you don't wear them out then you'll know you're not top roping enough to make it worth it.

No need to, unless you want to.

I recommend getting larger biners...they will feed much better. Steel would be more durable, but I don't know if it's necessary. Stainless steel is usually reserved for stuff that's going to take a serious pounding, like fixed draws or anchors that are exposed to daily wear and environmental weathering. If you're putting 'em back in your pack at the end of the day, you'll be fine with aluminum.

Edit: omg, $23? For 2, that's going to be $50 after tax...way too much, that is serious overkill. Don't forget that you'll need several lockers, including (ideally) one for each arm of your anchor, and it's not unheard of to set 2 or 3 anchors at a time if you're climbing with a big group of friends.

I found some steel lockers just 6 months ago for about 8 bucks a piece, it might have been through Fixe

I'd just run laps on this for the rest of forever and call it a day......

Steel lockers for toproping is a good idea. They are heavy, so you might not want them on your harness for leading (to set up a toprope). I finally got some after years of climbing, because your regular lockers will get quite grooved. If I'm walking to the top to set up a toprope, steel lockers are the best.

All the time but you can do better than $25/each:

http://www.camp-usa.com/products/carabiners/steel-oval-standard-lock/

I find ovals work best. Get 2 petzl Owalls, put them opposite and opposed, or add in one locking version.

The beauty of an oval at a masterpoint is that it holds lots of rope on the anchor end for multiple anchor strands, and an equally large end for climbers and gear.

I've always hated it when an inverted HMS has so much rope on the little end that it literally rotates off the long axis of the biner because the anchor strands are so wadded.

Also, ovals are great for a smooth running rope and large surface area for nice rope wear.

My standard TR anchor (usually off 2 bolts) is a quad with a rocklock and a steel non-locker for the rope bearing surface. Because the steel biner is shorter than the rocklock it takes all the weight which is ideal because it will be more durable than the rocklock.

I don't notice a difference in weight between the steel nonlocker and a 2nd rocklock so that's not an issue and I feel secure enough with 1 locker and an opposed non-locker.

eli poss wrote:My standard TR anchor (usually off 2 bolts) is a quad with a rocklock and a steel non-locker for the rope bearing surface. Because the steel biner is shorter than the rocklock it takes all the weight which is ideal because it will be more durable than the rocklock. I don't notice a difference in weight between the steel nonlocker and a 2nd rocklock so that's not an issue and I feel secure enough with 1 locker and an opposed non-locker.

wat?

If you're in an area with highly abrasive soil, I'd probably get steel biners. If you have real dirt, maybe not.

I've grown to be a big fan of the steel lockers for topropes because it keeps your rope cleaner and your hands cleaner.

These are some of my favorite, just $8.95:

climbtechgear.com/double-ac…

Derek Jf wrote: wat?

Steel carabiners will keep your rope cleaner than aluminum ones, which deposit a surprising amount of aluminum oxide into the rope sheath and then onto your hands. I know some folks who use basic steel biners for the rope side of their TR anchor draws. Edit - Just saw Mike's post above, I second what he said (post wasn't there when I loaded the webpage).

Thanks, steel it is. :)

Oh, hadn't considered the cleanliness angle. $8 is much more reasonable.

Linnaeus wrote:Steel carabiners will keep your rope cleaner than aluminum ones, which deposit a surprising amount of aluminum oxide into the rope sheath and then onto your hands. I know some folks who use basic steel biners for the rope side of their TR anchor draws. Edit - Just saw Mike's post above, I second what he said (post wasn't there when I loaded the webpage).

But consider that it's the rope passing through your hands that's turning your hands black. And for the most part, that's not the rope that's up top at the masterpoint (that rope will JUST reach your hands when the climber is at the top of the pitch). My point? the worst offender aluminum-on-the-rope wise, is the biner at your belay device. Also the device itself, but that's a distant 2nd as far as Al source goes.

Gunkiemike wrote: But consider that it's the rope passing through your hands that's turning your hands black. And for the most part, that's not the rope that's up top at the masterpoint (that rope will JUST reach your hands when the climber is at the top of the pitch). My point? the worst offender aluminum-on-the-rope wise, is the biner at your belay device. Also the device itself, but that's a distant 2nd as far as Al source goes.

Sure, but you can't deny that steel biners for the masterpoint isn't going to keep your rope, and hence your hands, cleaner. We've proven that with what we've done in our guide service and have seen ropes and hands stay measurably cleaner since making the transition.

Michael Schneiter wrote: Sure, but you can't deny that steel biners for the masterpoint isn't going to keep your rope, and hence your hands, cleaner. We've proven that with what we've done in our guide service and have seen ropes and hands stay measurably cleaner since making the transition.

lol what? You're contradicting yourself here. /grammar police