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Angle of Your Woody?

Original Post
Gus Wathen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

I am about to embark on building a home wall, but am not decided on what angle(s) I want to commit to. Everyone raves about 45 deg. but that is much steeper than anything I find myself on in the real world. I am looking to train power and power endurance, but my home crag is Smith Rock, and bouldering is not my focus, so I am hesitant to go super steep. I am curious if anyone has a "magic angle" at which they to train for slightly overhung sport routes with small holds?

Paul Trendler · · Bend, Oregon · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 113

Hey Gus,

Before everyone says go look at the "what does your woody look like" thread, I'll share my two cents from another Smith local. 45 Degrees is too steep to mimic almost all of the climbing at Smith, but that is often the best way to maximize your surface area to get the most climbing space.

20 degrees would be just about perfect IMO.

I do a fair amount of bouldering, so combining the desire for some steeper stuff and max surface area for my space I went for 38 degrees.

If you haven't already read Mark Anderson's advice Here , then you really should.

Have fun!

Stephen Felker · · Boulder, CO · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 460

Twenty-five degrees is great for small holds; 50 is my favorite steep angle.

Gus Wathen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 0

Thanks for forwarding that Anderson website Paul. Looks like a good place to start. I have some ceiling space, so I am thinking one sheet at 15 and one at 30.

llanSan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 130

read this:…

my advice: if the wall doesn't have to look pretty (means you don´t have a wife that will complain for having a piece of plywood with shapes attached in your leaving room, bathroom, or wherever). and the angles will not pass de 30. make it angle adjustable. by the simplest way possible (old climbing rope, or chains behind).
now on the how to ? part...

Go to the what does your woody look like thread.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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