Easy multi pitch in El Potrero?


Original Post
K2tbui · Feb 12, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 0
Looking for beta on easy multi pitches in El Potrero. Maybe 5.7-5.8? I am taking my wife who is a beginner. Thanks!

David Gibbs · Feb 13, 2016 · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6
First thing I'll say, is that I found the grades at EPC to be mostly on the soft side. So, you may find that routes up to 5.9 may be in range.

In the 5.8 and below range, though, there isn't a lot of multi-pitch. Options include:

Libertad (2 pitches, on a pillar), I think 5.6 (Ed's guide said 5.7) - Front side.
Crack Test Dummies (2 pitches). Hard 5.8 (for EPC). The Spires.
Yankee Clipper (first two pitches are 5.8). Jungle Wall.
The Flamingo Wall (first two pitches are 5.8) - Virgin Canyon

Maybe:
Space Boyz - first 4 pitches (5.8, 5.9, 5.9, 5.9) - all seemed pretty soft.
Las Chimuelas (3 pitches, 5.8; 5.9; 5.8). Seemed soft for the grade to me. Jungle Wall.

Evil/Ramsay's Shenanigans link up: p1 (5.8) of evil, then P2 & P3 (5.9-, 5.9) of Ramsay's Shenanigans. They run a few feet from each other, and the switch-over at the belay is easy to do.

Avoid: Jungle Boy (2 pitches, 5.8/9, 5.6 - I couldn't pull the roof on P1.)

But, really, not a lot of choice in the 5.8 and below range.

DrRockso · Feb 13, 2016 · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 168
As above has said there isn't not a lot of multi easier than 9 in the Potrero. If she can follow 9's the options open up a little. Maybe check out some of the stuff in Los Lobos canyon, also the first few pitches of Estralita are pretty easy. Hard to find multi's under 9 that are sport anywhere.

Stich · Feb 13, 2016 · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,230
Take a look at Buzz Rock. I think the route "The Fez" might fit your bill.

David Gibbs · Feb 14, 2016 · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6
Stich wrote:Take a look at Buzz Rock. I think the route "The Fez" might fit your bill.
That looks to be more into the "if she's following 5.9" range. I see it graded as a 5.10, though I don't know how hard a 5.10 it is.

Estrellita is the "classic" easy multi-pitch at EPC. It has a couple 5.11 variants, so sometimes is listed at this grade -- but the most commonly climbed variant is nominally 5.10b. I say nominally, as the crux 10b section can be bypassed on 5.7ish jugs about 2 yards off route; and most of the climb is not even sustained 5.9. And, it is long; and reaches a lovely ridge-summit with palm tree blowing in the wind.

grant kendrick · Feb 14, 2016 · northampton, ma · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0
As others have said, not much multi-pitch in those grades, but the grades are generally pretty soft, so you might find you can climb harder than you're used to. There's also plenty of moderate single pitch to accustom yourselves to the rock and grades.

Keep in mind that all the long routes have to be rapped to get down, so make sure your wife is up for that. For instance, the rappel off Estrellita involves maneuvering around a slung palm tree in the middle of the cliff. Not really too hard to deal with, but could be intimidating for an inexperienced climber.

Have a great time!

DrRockso · Feb 14, 2016 · Red River Gorge, KY · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 168
Estralita also has one rap that is super easy to get your rope snagged. Ask me how I know!

Stich · Feb 14, 2016 · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,230
Buzz Rock was super easy as I recall. It's seldom crowded, too. The rappels on Estrellita are quite spooky for a beginner. Several involve hanging rap stations.

WMcD · Feb 16, 2016 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 170
Cactus pile is a good option. Far left end of the mota wall. Rap from the top of the third pitch.

David Gibbs · Feb 16, 2016 · Ottawa, ON · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 6
WMcD wrote:Cactus pile is a good option. Far left end of the mota wall. Rap from the top of the third pitch.
I think pitch 3 is 5.10b, and the others are 5.9 or so. This, again, is in the "if the 5.9s are soft enough..." category.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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