Third Flatiron question


Original Post
Pogie · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 45

Climbed the standard east face for the first time on Saturday and had a blast. We knew it would be crowded but wanted to try and squeeze it in before the closure. Lots of other folks wanted to as well. Lots of roped groups and soloists. Crowded but still very enjoyable.

We did the standard 3 rap descent to the south. I was not too keen on the left traverse unroped at the third rappel. I was wondering if it is possible to do the normal first rappel and then make it to the ground (and retrieve rope) with some left traversing on an 80m rope for the second rap.

Thanks

Paul Hassett · · Aurora CO · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 163

You don't have to go unroped. Just keep your rap set up and walk over. If nervous, put autoblock or friction hitch of your choice, to use two hands.

Jfriday1 · · Conifer, CO · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 40

I believe two ropes from the second station will take you down to the bottom, But I wouldn't recommend it unless there is a party behind you bc, I watched a party get their ropes stuck bc of the angle and friction off of the anchors from the second rap.

Eric Klammer · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,075

Rap from the summit to Friday's Folly ledge in one go. Stay on rappel and scoot across to the far anchor (unless you have 2 ropes). Make one more rappel to the base of Fridays/Saturdays Folly. Walk off.

Linking the first two does increase the chance of getting your rope stuck, but I've never stopped there and I'm 20-something and 0 for a stuck rope (knock on wood).

Another option if it's crowded is to simply fix your rope to the anchor, rap directly west about 60m to the ground and have somebody up top untie the line and toss it down. Super quick, exposed, and fun!

Xam · · Boulder, Co · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 73

I have done 2 60s from the 1st station (south bowl) to the ground many times. I don't think you will make it with a single 80. Swinging climbers left would be awkward and not suggested since the last half of the rappel is overhanging and you would land on some relatively slick slab...this slab is the 4th class upclimb to the normal rappel route landing spot. Even so, I don't think you would have enough rope with a single 80.

You might make it work with a single 80 from the center (not climber's left) eyebolt at the 2nd station (Fridays Folly ledge), but it would depend on rope stretch and I have not tried it. It is marked at 140 ft, so even with rope stretch with an 80 it would be close.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,225
Eric Klammer wrote:Another option if it's crowded is to simply fix your rope to the anchor, rap directly west about 60m to the ground and have somebody up top untie the line and toss it down. Super quick, exposed, and fun!
Yep - my standard descent when crowded.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 871

Most of the rap rings have the distance to the ground stamped on them.

But, the single 60M rap to the west is the best way to go if you can get someone to drop your rope. The down climb is fairly fast as well but not super obvious the first time.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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