Hangboard n00b, not a beginner climber?


Original Post
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
Colorado
Joined: Oct 2012
Points: 0
I found an old Metolious S(t)imulator in my mother in law's basement. I hung it at my house. I've got both bungee cords and pulleys set up to take weight off.

It looks great, like I could do some serious work on it. The neighbors will think I'm so rad.

Turns out in 20 years of climbing that I've only touched a hangboard a handful of times (maybe 5) and that was only on the big holds to do some pullups. I seriously have no idea what to do with this thing. It looks cool.

My current weakness is endurance. My second current weakness is power.

Ideas? — Jan 31, 2016
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
Joined: Aug 2013
Points: 0

Is your third current weakness trolling? — Jan 31, 2016
grog m aka Greg McKee
Unknown Hometown
Joined: Aug 2012
Points: 0
Yeah I would say the weakness you need to work on is trolling. There is a plethora of MP threads, books, articles, and web pages dedicated to this. Start there. — Jan 31, 2016
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion
Colorado
Joined: Oct 2012
Points: 0
Micah and Grog, and others since I've noticed a trend of this lately.

Trolling is posting something inflammatory to get a heated response. An example would be threatening to chop Anarchitect because someone did it trad.

A subset and more creative version of trolling would be posting something patently false and seeing how many people you fool. The onion and the horrowitz report are great at this. I see it here time to time but not as often as people seem to think.

A repetitive question is not a troll. It may bother you, that's cool, you can STFU. Is 20kn posting a shoe thread trolling or is he possibly trying to narrow down some ideas he already has.

In case you're wondering, my third weakness is actually frequency. I sure wish I got out climbing more than I have been lately. — Jan 31, 2016
Muscrat
Unknown Hometown
Joined: Oct 2011
Points: 0
SO let's pretend this is not a troll:
Read this:
http://rockclimberstrainingmanual.com/
Follow instructions in book:
Get stronger:
Climb.
End of story: end data transmission
delete thread: — Jan 31, 2016
grog m aka Greg McKee
Unknown Hometown
Joined: Aug 2012
Points: 0
mountainproject.com/v/secon...

https://www.trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike-anderson-guide-to-hangboard-training/ — Jan 31, 2016
reboot
Unknown Hometown
Joined: Jul 2006
Points: 0

Do whatever that doesn't bore you to death:

Repeaters, max hang (10 sec ish), longer than max hang (20-30 sec). One arm hang (take off weight if needed), L-hang progression to front lever, pull-ups (yes, pull-ups) on holds you can crank 3-5 reps of, have the wife hang off your back...

Unfortunately there are only so much you can do on a hangboard, so watch a video (preferably not comedy) while you are at it. — Jan 31, 2016
Old lady H
Boise, Idaho
Joined: Aug 2015
Points: 0
"Self-Coached Climber" doesn't have hangboard specifics, but does have great instructions for building your own program with the broad goals you have.

Maybe try googling the specific model you have, and there might be info on what all the bits on it can be used for, probably even some creative ones.

And, good folks like yourself will hopefully weigh in with useful information. The whole "troll!" thing is getting kinda lame. Yes, there are threads on here, but the search "function", well, doesn't. Besides, some of us truly enjoy our community. ;-) — Jan 31, 2016
Dan Corcoran
Kenmore, WA
Joined: Aug 2013
Points: 0

There's an app I use called Boulder Trainer. You can download training plans specific to your board and goals or build your own. It works well for me.

Also, if you google hang board training plans, there is no shortage of info. — Jan 31, 2016
limpingcrab
Visalia, CA
Joined: Nov 2010
Points: 0
Digit trainer is a good app with pre made workouts or you can build your own using the app. — Jan 31, 2016
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
Joined: Mar 2015
Points: 0
Old lady H wrote:Yes, there are threads on here, but the search "function", well, doesn't.
I discovered a new search tool, it's called Google, and I think it's really going to catch on.

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=hangboard+training

Top hits:
http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_10_min.html
http://www.climbing.com/skills/copy-of-tech-tips-contact-2/
https://www.trainingbeta.com/mark-and-mike-anderson-guide-to-hangboard-training/
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/knuckle-down-and-dead-hang — Feb 1, 2016
Mark E Dixon
Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined: Nov 2007
Points: 0

reboot wrote:Do whatever that doesn't bore you to death: Repeaters, max hang (10 sec ish), longer than max hang (20-30 sec). One arm hang (take off weight if needed), L-hang progression to front lever, pull-ups (yes, pull-ups) on holds you can crank 3-5 reps of, have the wife hang off your back... Unfortunately there are only so much you can do on a hangboard, so watch a video (preferably not comedy) while you are at it.
It'll be interesting to see how you adapt to the board, since you have a history of being pretty strong. I suspect you'll get your power and endurance back pretty quickly no matter what, once you escape school.

Hangboard isn't really best for endurance or power, but both will get better if you rebuild your strength on the board.

Reboot offers good advice but just don't listen to him! He's freakishly strong. No one arms!!!

Seriously, goal 1 should be avoiding injury. I believe that repeaters are a little safer for a board novice. 6 seconds on/4 off, repeat 6 times, rest 3 minutes between sets. Advance to 7/3 X 6 when possible.

Choose maybe half a dozen grips based on where you think you might be climbing. Emphasize open grip for tendon safety.

Two or three sets will usually give you better results. Personally I prefer more grips and fewer sets (in fact, just a single set), which I feel is more transferable to real rock, but that's anti-established wisdom.

If you decide to go for max hangs, maybe try 10 seconds on a hold/ intensity you could theoretically maintain for 13 seconds. (This is Eva Lopez's program.) Still reasonably safe. Rest 2-3 minutes between these 1 rep sets and do maybe 3 sets on each grip.
I varied this by doing 2RM hangs (8 seconds on/4 off/8 more seconds on) which I liked a lot.

I know you have a lot of experience with endurance training, not sure about strength training. If you know how your body best builds strength, (i.e. low rep/high intensity vs higher rep/lower intensity) then you should just mimic that pattern.

Goal 2 is to avoid terminal boredom. Funny, it doesn't bother me at all, I just turn on the radio and spend most of my rest periods trying to remember when I'm supposed to start the next rep!
If you can study for two years, you can hangboard. — Feb 1, 2016
Old lady H
Boise, Idaho
Joined: Aug 2015
Points: 0
Kyle Tarry wrote: I discovered a new search tool, it's called Google, and I think it's really going to catch on. lmgtfy.com/?q=hangboard+tra... Top hits: metoliusclimbing.com/traini... climbing.com/skills/copy-of... trainingbeta.com/mark-and-m... rockandice.com/lates-news/k...
Yup. Google works pretty darn well, being the big search engine. Unfortunately, I was referring to MP, which is tiny by comparison. Thanks for posting up! :-) — Feb 2, 2016
Kyle Tarry
Portland, OR
Joined: Mar 2015
Points: 0
Old lady H wrote: Yup. Google works pretty darn well, being the big search engine. Unfortunately, I was referring to MP, which is tiny by comparison. Thanks for posting up! :-)
Here, let me help:

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Amountainproject.com+hangboard+training — Feb 2, 2016
Old lady H
Boise, Idaho
Joined: Aug 2015
Points: 0
Kyle Tarry wrote: Here, let me help: lmgtfy.com/?q=site%3Amounta...
Fair enough! Consider me happily skewered, although this is the power of Google, again. Don't be too hard on me-i have to deal with really clunky databases and unfriendly search engines for my job. And, since the mid 80's. But, I've also got to watch it all change and evolve, which, I have to admit, has been a blast, and will continue to be. We're fast approaching some interesting tipping points on a lot of fronts. Exciting! — Feb 2, 2016
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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