Lee Vining Ice Conditions


Original Post
RonC · Dec 19, 2015 · Roseville, CA · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 0
Anyone been to LV recently. How's the ice forming up?

MacM · Dec 19, 2015 · Cave Creek/Preskitt, AZ · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 540
Was at June Lake on Thursday and the warm weather was destroying Tatum and Horsetail. If that's much help to assessing Lee Vining Conditions.

Cheers,
Mac

David Lane · Dec 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
Lee Vining is the best its been this early in the season in quite a few years. I'll be going in tomorrow morning, I'll up date when I'm done.

David Lane · Dec 21, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
Snowing and blowing hard, didn't walk into the canyon. Went to JL roadside, did the left most line to the top rapped and came home. Sticky ice at June but not much of it.

Jesse Toedtman · Dec 21, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
I climbed there Saturday. The approach was miserable as always, but he ice was great! Sorry for the poor quality pictures, but here is one from the top second from the left bolts.
Top of Lee Vining

Aaron.Baumann · Dec 22, 2015 · Hayward, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0
Climbed Chouinard falls on Sunday. Main wall was fairly well filled in. Here's a crappy pano I took at the end of the day whilst it was snowing.

Chouinard Falls 12/20/2015

Jesse - were you the ones camped out in front of your car over night? Someone left a fair amount of dry static at the top of the falls over night (a climber from Saturday may have left it). Wondering if it was yours.

Edit: Was at Horsetail on Saturday and it was great ice to the top - a little warm because it was snowing all day, but otherwise seemed fairly well filled in for running laps on a single pitch.

Jesse Toedtman · Dec 22, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Aaron

We ended up staying at Murpheys. There were a few folks in a car with TX plates that had camped Friday night I believe.

Aaron.Baumann · Dec 22, 2015 · Hayward, CA · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0
Jesse Toedtman wrote:Aaron We ended up staying at Murpheys. There were a few folks in a car with TX plates that had camped Friday night I believe.
Was staying there as well! Cheers

David Lane · Dec 27, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
re-established the trail in yesterday after recent storms, it was super fun ;) Luckily 2 younger guys from the bay area also helped and did a great job with the final section from the narrows up.

The ice was brutally hard and also in other spots very soft or fragile due to the egg shell that formed over the real ice under neath which was as hard as I have ever seen ice. Lots of swinging for sticks or lots of swinging to clear crap so you could get to something trustworthy.

Hole in one

Jeff Scheuerell · Dec 27, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,295
What are you doing down there?

Rude Boy · Dec 27, 2015 · San Francisco, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 585
Hey David, how is the Main Wall filling in right now? Specifically the left side, Spiral Staircase? I was there beginning of Dec. and there was a little ice sticking to it but not much. Only the middle of the Main Wall was climbable as an ice climb then.

SirTobyThe3rd · Dec 28, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,740
Main Wall and Chouinard Falls

Main Wall

Spiral did not look good. :( Climbed the rightmost flow (Caveman) and top roped the one between it and the middle flow in one pitch. Beginning of Caveman is basically not protectable before you get to the crux bulge. First 13cm screw I tried to place hit rock after going half way in. Beginning of the climb to the left seemed just as hard to protect, if not harder. The actual ice on Saturday was brittle and putting screws in was as difficult as placing into a cement wall. I guess this is what climbing in cold states is like...glad we live in CA and don't have to deal with it on the regular...oh and that's why the ice here sucks in comparison to places like Canada and Alaska...

Caveman

Rude Boy · Dec 29, 2015 · San Francisco, CA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 585
That sounds quite butt puckering V. Those flows are filling in though even if Spiral Staircase is a no go. Main Wall is much thicker.

David Lane · Dec 30, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 0
Sir are you V?

Aside from CA, I have only climbed ice in Cody WY, NV and Utah. I would have to say that Lee Vining is excellent for what it is! As far as an Ice Crag goes, specially when and if the Bard is in. Of course there are a lot better venues but I wouldn't say it sucks, June Lake roadside...now that sucks!

Jeff Scheuerell · Dec 30, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,295
Ya, LV does suck, not worth the effort. Stay home, stay warm, stay dry.

SirTobyThe3rd · Dec 30, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 1,740
David, yes. I sent you an email through ST forum, email me at xxvitaliyxx@yahoo.com if you didn't get it. Their PM system sucks.

Yeah, I also hope the spiral staircase forms. I have not ever climbed it, would be nice to since it is one of the classic routes there. Would be nice to have more direction as far as the mixed routes go. Does anyone know if there are topos or overlays with recommendations for rack? I remember there was a site with all the overlays, but I was not able to find it when I did a recent search.

Hope everyone has awesome New Years, the ice everywhere should kick ass with the current temperatures! Send the gnar! :)

"June Lake roadside...now that sucks!"

Check out Cascade Falls in Tahoe, if you want to add to the list...

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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