Favorite 1-2 pitch easy/moderate routes?


Original Post
scienceguy288 · Dec 18, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 20
I'm looking for a few easier (5.7-5.10-) trad and sport routes at Red Rock that are only one or two pitches. Most of the higher quality routes listed in the route finder or mentioned in the sticky are either longer multipitch trad or harder sport.

Michael Schneider · Dec 18, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
scienceguy288 wrote:I'm looking for a few easier (5.7-5.10-) trad and sport routes that are only one or two pitches. Most of the higher quality routes listed in the route finder or mentioned in the sticky are either longer multipitch trad or harder sport.
Climb the 1st 2 of the pitches (or as far as you feel able to commit to) and bail.
Keep a list of the climbs you bail off. As you get better, more confident you will be able to take on completing the climbs that you started.

Derek Jf · Dec 18, 2015 · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 120
Gunks Jesse wrote:One of my absolute favorites in this range is the Strictley-Shockley linkup in the Trapps (Gunks). It goes 5.7 and is three pitches with the middle pitch being an easy (5.4?) traverse. Pitch 1 goes 5.7, pitch 3 goes 5.6 and they are both spectacular in their own right with awesome exposure and incredible climbing! If you are an experienced leader and skilled at minimizing drag you can easily combine P2 and P3 with a 70 meter rope. Then you have bolted anchors at the end of P1 and tree anchors at the top on a 2 pitch climb.
Nick Sweeney wrote:^This is in the Nevada forum...
Genuine laugh out loud moment from you jesse - might be a bit of an approach, but you wont be disappointed scienceguy

FrankPS · Dec 18, 2015 · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
Derek Jf wrote:might be a bit of an approach,
Google Maps shows 2522 driving miles (Las Vegas to New York). Not bad for an approach.

Derek Jf · Dec 18, 2015 · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 120
FrankPS wrote: Google Maps shows 2522 driving miles (Las Vegas to New York). Not bad for an approach.
Which puts you at a brisk pace of 840hrs (car to car) if you approach by foot via the Grand-States Traverse trail [topo via Maps]

FrankPS · Dec 18, 2015 · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 15
Derek Jf wrote: Which puts you at a brisk pace of 840hrs (car to car) if you approach by foot via the Grand-States Traverse trail [topo via Maps]
Assumimg a pace of about 3 mph and 10 hours per day, he can make it in about 86 days. Less than three months! If he starts today, he can be there just in time for the March thaw. If there is a March thaw in New York.

Gunks Jesse · Dec 18, 2015 · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 63
Oops. iPhone app doesn't show to which forum the question is posted so I read what was asked, figured it was generic, and answered! Glad you got a laugh rather than a roar!

christoph benells · Dec 18, 2015 · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 55
where in Nevada?

if you are in Reno area Donner has so many awesome routes like this.

Rated X
Jelly Roll Arch
Black September
etc.
etc.
etc.

Scot Hastings · Dec 18, 2015 · Las Vegas · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 5
Physical Graffiti in Red Rock. 2 pitches of pure fun.

Aarika · Dec 19, 2015 · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 0
Great red book. It's two pitches mixed 5.8 and tops out to awesome views.

Dave Whalen · Dec 19, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Was just there last week. Check out Man's Best Friend (5.7) 2 pitch sport route. The second bolt is missing and can be protected with a nut in a nearby crack. You can't beat the 2 minute approach off the parking lot. Enjoy.

Rico Tan · Dec 20, 2015 · Las Vegas, Nevada · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 55
Black widow Hollow, 3 pitches 5.9 . But I wouldn't call it easy Dark Shadows 5.8, most people do only the first 4 pitches, which can be done in 2

Muscrat · Dec 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,040
Birdland. One of the best 5.6 around (first 2 pitches). But why are you limiting to 2 pitches?
Cookie monster. I've never climbed it in a traditional manner, great fun to simul it. You can climb up to the top of P3(?) of Cat, and then come down.
Cat in the hat?
Dark shadow, stretched it is 2 pitches....
Frogland? Been a while, i am not sure about retreat?
DOWT. Great fun, but why ruin it by not finishing it? First 2 pitches are good. Lots of options around the area....

BigB · Dec 20, 2015 · Red Rock, NV · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 0
Ragged edges(2p) is awesome!(the crag is perfect for you). Great red book(2p), physical graffiti(2p)are both great! Mans best friend is ok(sport, 2p, great for learning multi-pitch w/o trad gear), adventure guppies is ok(sport, 2p), big bad wolf is good if you can get on it(sport, 3p, bonus is... its the climb right next to physical graffiti). Pillar talk to chocolate tranquility would be fun(2-3p, easy link up, As a matter of fact I'm gonna go there now!!! :) ), romper room climbs... so many more!!!

scienceguy288 · Dec 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 20
Muscrat wrote:Birdland. One of the best 5.6 around (first 2 pitches). But why are you limiting to 2 pitches?
2 reasons: A few easy climbs to round out a long day and because I don't know whether I can handle the exposure on the bigger stuff. I've never done more than 2 pitches...

Muscrat · Dec 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,040
scienceguy288 wrote: 2 reasons: A few easy climbs to round out a long day and because I don't know whether I can handle the exposure on the bigger stuff. I've never done more than 2 pitches...
DO cat in the hat. Very limited exposure for a what, 5 or 6 pitch climb. You end up on very large shelves on almost every pitch. And you rap the route so you can retreat any time you want.

Doug Lintz · Dec 20, 2015 · Kearney, NE · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 915
I know they've been mentioned but Great Red Book and first 4 pitches (stretched easily into 2) of Dark Shadows are really good moderates.

At 5.7, Tunnel Vision is pretty fun but could be a little intimidating for some.

Mike wand · Dec 20, 2015 · San Marcos · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 15
If you do Cat in the Hat do Cookie Monster first. Then scramble down 15 feet of 3rd class and do the last three pitches of CITH. The beginning of CITH is very forgettable.

Muscrat · Dec 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,040
Mike wand wrote:If you do Cat in the Hat do Cookie Monster first. Then scramble down 15 feet of 3rd class and do the last three pitches of CITH. The beginning of CITH is very forgettable.
Except...the great exposure on cookie. Might not be what OP is wanting? But i agree, much better climb to do CM into Cat.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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