Beginner/advanced climber looking for Trad mentor

Original Post
Kyle Broxterman · · Snowmass Village, CO · Joined Dec 2015 · Points: 25

Hey Everyone,

My name is Kyle, and I live in San Diego. I am currently climbing 5.12's in the gym and have experience sport climbing. I am looking to learn how to trad climb and would love to be able to follow someone. Single pitch or multi-pitch. I'm a fast learner and listen well. Hope to hear from you.

gavinsmith · · Toronto, Ontario · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 83

Just in case you haven't seen this:

Soulless Ginger · · San bernardino · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 5

probably if any one else sees this they will scold me. But ill be the one to tell you, if you don't find anyone, buy a rack and learn on your own. Buy the anchor book by john long read that like its your bible and just go for it. start on 5.4 and work your way up as you feel comfortable. that's what i did. I waited 2 years for a trad mentor till i realized everyone at my gym was full of shit. also if your gym has cracks start doing those until you have them wired like the back of your hand.

ill be patiently waiting for someone to tell you that I'm stupid. but you know what it worked for me, so i don't care.

Jon Hartmann · · Ojai, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,305

Nope, I did the same exact thing. I bought "Climbing anchors" by John long and bob gains, read it everything I was on the toilet, sitting on the couch, riding as a passenger in a car etc. I bought my first rack from Rock Empire climbing equipment, $280 bought a full set of cams, a full set of nuts, beiners for all the cams AND 10 slings. Not a bad deal for a beginning trad rack. After I knew all the info in the book by heart I set out to JTree and didn't climb anything higher than 5.7 for a year even though I was climbing 5.12 on sport climbs in my local area. After a while it just becomes intuitive of when to move up through the grades. I've made tons of mistakes but the wonderful thing about teaching myself is that when I fucked up and my life was on the line...I have never made those mistakes again. Finding a mentor is really really hard and then one might begin to rely on that mentor too much. It's always easier when your scared to throw the lead to your rope gun but then you never learn how to deal with the stress on your own. Having a mentor will get you climbing higher grades faster than you might be able to on your own but teaching yourself will have incredible rewards in the end as long as you pay attention, constantly learn from books and friends, only go as hard and fast as you feel comfortable and use online databases like here on MP to ask questions whenever you can't figure it out for yourself.

Rob Warden...Space Lizard · · Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an... · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 115

Do what they said.however, Buy nice or buy twice for gear... get c4s used, nuts it dosent matter much. After you have done as much reading as you think you can handle...have the information wired.

Then hire a guide.

Troyswank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0

+1 for books mentioned.
Add on the falcon guides self rescue and mountaineering: freedom of the hills ed 8.

Generally, trad and rope technique consist of a lot of many little practices. You should be learning a new practice from a certified source daily.

Practice building various anchors, belay stations, rappel etc at home daily.

carry a set of nuts and some tricams in your backpack and practice gear placements when out hiking.

Practice on the ground then ya dont gotta worry bout it when your up there

If you need further assistance, buy me an amtrak ticket from ABQ and some pizza. ;]

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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