Need Volunteer to survey bolts in Acadia


Original Post
John Byrnes · Dec 17, 2015 · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 241
Hi,

We're looking for a volunteer to work with the ASCA. We've been told that bolts in Acadia are corroding and need replacing. In order to replace them with the proper material so they don't corrode again, we need to know what type of metal is in place now.

In other words, are the corroding bolts plated-zinc, stainless or something else?

Good photographs should allow us to make that determination, and information from local equippers and climbers is very much appreciated!

Zak Munro · Dec 19, 2015 · VT,CO, Bar Harbor ME · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 175
Contacting Grant Simmons author of Rock Climbs of Acadia would be a good place to start

john strand · Dec 19, 2015 · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,575
John---I would assume that most of the bolts at Acadia need replacing. Even an SS is going to die quick up there

If you use the new UIAA guidelines, then your gonna need some BIG bucks

John Byrnes · Dec 27, 2015 · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 241
john strand wrote:John---I would assume that most of the bolts at Acadia need replacing. Even an SS is going to die quick up there If you use the new UIAA guidelines, then your gonna need some BIG bucks
John,

Yes, we assume that too, but we actually haven't had any reports of bad stainless bolts up there, so we're not sure what's going on. No one wants to make any decisions in a data vacuum.

I believe we have one volunteer, could use one or two more.

RE UIAA guidelines, if we find SCC then yes, we'd use Ti bolts. But if it's too cold (for SCC to progress rapidly) and the existing bolts look good, then we can wait and see.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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