Stuck rappels


Original Post
James Willis · · Gilbert, Arizona · Joined May 2013 · Points: 170

Did solar slab yesterday and wound up getting like 4 rappels stuck. I'm looking for tips,tricks and advice to avoid or minimize getting ropes stuck on rappels?

Bill Lawry · · New Mexico · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,497

A thing sometimes over looked is on the rap down, last person swinging a little right or left to avoid cracks and other pinch points. Not sure that would help in rapping solar slabs. I have been up it but we scrambled up higher to then rap on doubles into I think painted bowl. Only two raps that way but then longish scramble down to get back into the canyon.

If it is any consolation, I know others have also had like issues coming down that way - not inexperienced.

thedogfather Dower · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Dec 2006 · Points: 125

If you rapped the route, I too had stuck ropes on the second pitch off the ledge on an early outing. Later I found that a rap route goes down to the right of the route and avoids the rope eating pitches. It basically goes straight down over clean rock and doesn't follow an actual route.

Gary N · · Durango, CO · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 540

Walk off...

Honestly, I try to avoid rappelling in Red Rock.

John Wilder · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,530
Gary N wrote:Walk off... Honestly, I try to avoid rappelling in Red Rock.
Rappelling in Red Rock in particular is a bit of an art form due to the snaggy nature of the rock here.

Biggest tips:

1) Single rope whenever possible (70m ropes work on alot of the routes that supposedly require double rope rappels)

2) EDK only if you must use two ropes (black velvet wall, mostly)

3) Pay attention to the terrain below the anchor and pull your rope accordingly

4) Learn to pull in a way that kicks the rope away from the wall rather than letting it slither down.

5) Saddle-bag ropes if its windy, especially on routes like Crimson where a rope blowing right or left could get stuck horizontally from the anchor.

Some routes, like Crimson, are just rope eaters and its mostly luck of the draw on the pulls no matter what you do. Others, can be no big deal if you have careful rope management and use the tricks above.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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