Would you use this quick draw?

Going through my rack this weekend and noticed one of my draws had a broken rubber piece on the rope side carabiner.

the dog bone is in fine condition and the biners are fine it's just the little rubber piece that holds the rope side biner in place is broken.

The only problem I could see this causing is that the carabiner could get loaded on the minor axis but you look at alpine draws and trad slings and the carabiners are not held in place in those cases and I climb with those whenever I'm on trad without any issues.

Any thoughts, I'm inclined to not care and just use it, I guess I could get it reslung.

Cheers!

-Mr. A

quickdraw with broken rubber thing ...

May be a little harder to clip now with I being able to flop around but I'd still run it but if you are seriously worried you can buy a new dog bone for like $5

Oh no...

A rubber band wound tightly where the rubber goes will fix the problem or petzel sells rubber pieces for the clipping end.

It's fine enough.

As always, check that your quickdraws aren't ending up in weird orientations as you go.

Edit to answer the OP's question: Yes!

You don't need the rubber thing. It's an unnecessary option.

What the hell are those rubber things called anyway? Its like those plastic things on the end of shoelaces. They don't have a name!

Shoelace tips are aglets.
The quickdraw piece is often referred to as a keeper.

aglet = plastic thingy on shoelace.

Haha lol, what the hell are they called.

Yeah I admit I am a n00b! these are my first quick draws and I've been using them for about a year now - the dog bone is in fine shape itself, I bought the draw new back in Jan or Feb of this year.

I just took a sweet 25 foot whipper on this one and broke the little rubber thing

...

Which is certainly better than breaking other rubbers that could result in paying child care ...

thanks for the replies guys

Clean up your desk.

I have the same draw with the same problem. I've been using it. If you slide the biner back in such that the rubber is where it is supposed to be, it shouldn't move around too much.

Here, let me try.

I would be more concerned about that burned paper under the dogbone. Ashes are alkaline, which is every bit as bad as acid on dyneema and nylon. Make sure it's not crumbly to the touch. Gee, maybe just get rid of it.

How was that?

Oh yeah, microcracks hmmmm mmmmm.

As an aside, put the loose biner on your gear loop so it's always in the right orientation. Then you never have to (GASP) rotate it before clipping as deaths have occurred during this crucial phase.

If you climb trad you use alpine draws... they don't have rubber. The rubber is a nicety not a requirement for a draw to work.

You can also buy replacement stuff if it really anonys you.

youtube.com/watch?v=qTghr72…

They make rubber replacement designed to basically do what this video does.

Just don't do what people have died from... climbing with only the rubber holding the biner on.

I had this same problem with multiple Mad Rock Concord Quickdraws, below is part of the response from Allen Kim (allen@madrockclimbing.com):

"All Mad Rock carabineers and quick draws are strength tested to 8KN, with
the rubber grommet. But the rubber grommet is never strength tested, as it
is not a necessary piece for strength, safety, or reliability. These rubber
grommets are only there for convenience and to help orient the carabineer.
They play absolutely no role in safey. Their only purpose is to orient the
carabineer in a more efficient way for the climber. I hope that I was able
to answer your questions. If you have any other questions, please contact
me. Thank you."

I still have and use some of these broken Mad Rock draws, but have become strongly partially to the Petzl Djinn Axess....

J Marsella wrote:1. "Yer gunna die" 2. "Send it to me and I'll test it out" 3. "It's only $4 worth of dynema; is your life worth more than that?" 4. "NOOB!" 5. "In the Gunks that draw would be 5.4" 6. "Use the rope-- you don't need that extra stuff on your harness!" 7. "Quick draws are neither." PS I'd use it.

OMG, dude just summed up every post on MP. #6 is my favorite!

Two things: zipped up a 5.2 to set up a TR anchor on an adjacent route. A guy from out west somewhere came up behind my second and complained that the route was at least a 5.7, definitely not a 5.2. Don't know what to say. It was a 5.2.

Other thing: remember the young Climbing phenom who died because somebody threaded the rope side biner through the rubber thing only and not through the dogbone? Be careful with those things...

I have a bunch (10-15) of DMM's rubber things I removed (gasp) from my quickdraws. PM me and I'll send them to you. They're all circa 3 months ago.

Mr.Andreson wrote:Going through my rack this weekend and noticed one of my draws had a broken rubber piece on the rope side carabiner. the dog bone is in fine condition and the biners are fine it's just the little rubber piece that holds the rope side biner in place is broken. The only problem I could see this causing is that the carabiner could get loaded on the minor axis but you look at alpine draws and trad slings and the carabiners are not held in place in those cases and I climb with those whenever I'm on trad without any issues. Any thoughts, I'm inclined to not care and just use it, I guess I could get it reslung.

Alluding to another thread.....
This is a great example of that "thinking by rote memorization" instead of understanding the underlying concept. A climber *should* be able to look at the draw and the rubber keeper, analyze what the keeper is doing in the system, and come to the conclusion that it is superfluous and not safety critical.

I suppose it's better to ask if you really don't know, but if that's the case, what confidence should I or anyone else have in your ability to figure out and engineer a proper anchor?

B. Climbin' wrote:What the hell are those rubber things called anyway? Its like those plastic things on the end of shoelaces. They don't have a name!

That design is normally known as a "tadpole".

i have used small zipties on draws without the rubber doodle. I also did this to my cams... helps in hard splitters, and no i don't get my cams stuck, i clean stuck cams alot.