Ice near Bend?

What do you guys have up there? [places] not current conditions...but we can talk about current conditions too.

Thank you!

The beer is better than the ice.

I read there's a lot of beer up there. would be nice to combo that with some ice though.

any local (ice) spots close to bend?

The beer is also colder than the ice. If your heading to bend to ice climb you should just leave your tools at home.

paulina falls sometimes forms

your best bet is probably on the moraine of the eliot glacier on mt. hood. there is usually some fun wi4 lines there.

or the north face of hood in the fall, if you want a more challenging longer option.

there may be the same options on north facing volcanoes around bend, but the access is not as easy.

one of many climbs to choose from on eliot glacier moraine

Thanks all -

So ice is consistent up by Hood?

Not coming up anytime soon..just looking around for a place to move to. Got to have rock, ice and snow within a decent distance...

We drive 6 hours for crowded, shitty ice in socal. I'd be happy to have some within a 3 hour drive but not more.

there is also a bunch of exploratory ice in eastern oregon.

those climbs on the moraine there are fairly consistent, but you will get bored of them.

There are a bunch of ephemeral ice lines around oregon that are awesome if you can get them. the columbia river gorge has awesome climbs if they form.

The sandy river canyon gets HUGE ice lines that are still awaiting first ascents.

I've seen pollalie falls form and that also has never been climbed, to my knowledge.

You can get plenty gnarly though on ice year round in the pacific northwest. You have eliot glacier headwall and the north face on hood, or the black spider if you want a full on alpine experience. climbs like the pencil (also in the eliot glacier area) or march madness (on illumination rock) are quite good and come into condition most years. the "skylight" climbs on I rock are also quite challenging.

Plus serac climbing in the summer and glacier exploring is fun.

Rainier, Baker, Shuksan plus many other North Cascades peaks have ice lines. Snoqualmie area has many climbs on Mt. Snoqualmie and Chair Peak. Leavenworth gets legit WI as well.

Really options are endless, especially if you have a flexible schedule and willing to climb endless 60 degree alpine ice..

you do have the same options for alpine ice on the three sisters, but getting to the ice there is a long haul, and since you cant really see it from any vantage point, its not really worth making the huge ski in with all the gear to do those climbs.

I have seen photos of a huge WI5-6 column coming off the diller headwall on middle sister.

Bend does have better rock climbing,

but also think about Hood River.

Its a great place and has plenty of local rock, trout creek and smith are day trips, and if gorge ice forms its just down the road. Mt. Hood meadows ski area is 30 miles away, and the corn ski season on Mt. Adams is high quality.

christoph benells wrote:(Hood Ice Photo)

Christoph, is that photo taken looking east towards the Cooper Spur moraine wall? What approximate time of year was it taken?

I have been up that way quite a few times in the summer, and wondered if snowmelt off the spur would form up ice lines there. Looks amazing! Seems like it would be a good spot, the spur seems to get quite a bit of sun but that wall is (almost?) always in the shade. I am definitely adding that to my to-do list!

There are a few flows up in the Elk Cove area with a northeast (ish) aspect that look like they might form up really nice too, but that's a much burlier approach in winter.

yep, right where you are thinking,

that photo was late march, but there is usually ice there from nov-april.

if you are a skier, its a real good time. its worth going up there for the ski down eliot glacier alone, and add in a few ice climbs its a great day!

Thanks for the beta. I will have to head up there and check it out as soon as this weather calms down a bit. Even with the cloud cap road closed, the approach isn't too bad!

on a heavy snow year, climb at bottom left

Number one there is no ice in Oregon at all. Do not believe any of the shit people are telling you. WA has some ice and great alpine routes. Bend is for rock climbing and good MTB. I am an experienced all around climber, and I have climbed ice in OR/WA and all over the country. I am in SLC now where there's real climbing. Sorry to burst your bubble, but that's the reality.
Cheers and happy ice hunting

perropirana wrote:Number one there is no ice in Oregon at all.

perropirana wrote:I have climbed ice in OR

Thanks everyone - your replies are very helpful and welcoming.

I expected: Welcome to Oregon, Now Go Home!!

We're considering a few other places but so far Bend sounds like the best fit for us. Time will tell!

christoph benells wrote:

That's funny!
:)

Definitely no ice climbing in oregon...

There has been a quiet bunch climbing ice in eastern oregon for the better part of 20 years or even longer. Remember, steve house got his start in La Grande. While not exactly close to Bend, it is still ice in Oregon.

mountainproject.com/v/pine-…

Real good skiing up there too.