Worst pitch in Indian Creek now has anchors?


Original Post
ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

Had Broken Tooth to myself the day after Thanksgiving and found these (new?) bolts at the top of the first pitch

1st pitch Gingivitis new anchors?

Anchors are visible at the top of the 1st pitch

La Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

Why the hell would anyone bolt that chosspile? I'm still cleaning sand out of my cooter after that misrable slog.

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

That's what I thought when I read through the comments for the route. Seems like a waste of $20 when a 70m gets you up and down both pitches.

Devin Fin · · DURANGO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 3,680

Awwwww someone decided to place an anchor on top of this dumpy lil choss pile ?!?! It's mid December discuss ?!?!

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,225

You think someone bailed from P1 and didn't want to leave other gear? Or just didn't have the rope to get down?
Strange to be adding anchors, which in the end require regular upkeep.

Devin Fin · · DURANGO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 3,680

I bailed off this thing in the rain years ago with some down climbing ? You can make it down to the lil ramp at the start with a 60m rope... Probably Just a case of "it has anchors in the book"

La Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

Bailed and happened to have a bolting kit in their car? The next person up will probably still be able to smell the fear and shame.

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

I find it challenging to believe that someone bailed whilst climbing and happened to have bolting gear but no 70m rope to get all the way down. I mean if you climb the grovel that is pitch 1 you're going to climb the nice 2nd pitch.

clausti · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 5

probably some green plate try-hard shit themselves, and decided to cover their shame-bail in shiny bolts and rock dust. "creeksgiving" party week, and all that.

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

Ah, well that didn't take long to become a Utah vs. Colorado argument. My butt hurts a little bit. You don't own the Creek because it's within Utah borders Clausti.

Devin Fin · · DURANGO · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 3,680

Those "try hards" strike again ! After what I saw over this past thanksgiving at the critics choice parking lot / camp with over 20 people sprawled out shooting guns!!! I dident look but had to be "green plates" ............. GO

Rob T · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 10

Damn you'd think the greenies would be a little more thick skinned by now.

Devin brings up a good point about the ammosexuals though, maybe the Utah climbers can turn them against the greenies and only have one group to tolerate by this time next year.

…and maybe The Donald will solve all our other problems …

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

Perhaps we greenies should have thicker skin. Mine is fairly thick but I still think it's petty to promote the whole interstate argument. Maybe Clausti's just petty. Dunno.

La Momoface · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 60

I can't take any credit, I'm just a white plate transplant like the rest of them, and before that the original green plate of VeeTee.

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

Admittedly I'm fairly new to the proj and to the utah/Colorado pissing contest so what is the preferred counter to "greenie"? Will "Utard" suffice? ; )

ben jammin · · Moab, UT · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 695

It was probably the same kid who put up these choss boulders . Don't let me derail the CO vs UT argument, though. They're my favorite.

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

Curious if it was the FA party? Or if whoever did place the bolts contacted the FA party? There's a guy in Yosemite currently taking a hammering on MP and Super topo for adding midway anchors in the Valley.

Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 585

I was at Critic's Choice just before Turkeyday, and there were people who had just drilled lots of holes. They bolted the slab boulder at the top of the approach, and also bolted the chimney behind the pillar just right of Critic's Choice. The new plaque said "Bolt's Before Bros", but apparently it was already an established route, complete with its own pre-existing plaque. I also saw some new bolted anchors I assume to be their's, 30 feet or less off the ground, made with neon green webbing. It seemed to be unnecessarily visible.

ShireSmitty · · Boulda · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 70

Really? Neon Green?

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 23,225
Shelton Hatfield wrote:I was at Critic's Choice just before Turkeyday, and there were people who had just drilled lots of holes. They bolted the slab boulder at the top of the approach, and also bolted the chimney behind the pillar just right of Critic's Choice. The new plaque said "Bolt's Before Bros", but apparently it was already an established route, complete with its own pre-existing plaque. I also saw some new bolted anchors I assume to be their's, 30 feet or less off the ground, made with neon green webbing. It seemed to be unnecessarily visible.
Well when you say "but apparently it was already an established route" what do you mean? What made that apparent?
Because if it's more than 'apparent' it isn't that hard to rap off of the higher anchors to remove the lower, and a plaque is pretty easy to make go away.
Shelton Hatfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 585
Tony B wrote: Well when you say "but apparently it was already an established route" what do you mean? What made that apparent? Because if it's more than 'apparent' it isn't that hard to rap off of the higher anchors to remove the lower, and a plaque is pretty easy to make go away.
I say "apparently" because I didn't see the old plaque. I just saw the protection bolts in the chimney with fresh rock dust, and the new plaque. A few days later, an acquaintance who went to Critic's Choice told me he saw the old plaque, and was upset that the established route had been retro-bolted. Its not a matter of removing a new anchor, since the climb still finishes at the top of the pillar that forms the chimney.

And I didn't mean to imply that the neon green anchor was at the top of this chimney. The new neon green anchors were at the top of other shorty pillar climbs.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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