Ecuador Rock Climbing


Original Post
Gunks Jesse · Dec 3, 2015 · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 63
Looking for info on rock climbing in Ecuador. Will be there all of January and plan to bring a sport rack and rope, possibly a pared down trad rack if needed, but would like to leave the read gear at home if sufficient sport climbing exists.

Looking for routes in the 5.10s and under in the Quito area but not opposed to other nearby area info

Read through what is available on MP and other online. Looking for some specifics from people who've been there.

Rope length?
Single, doubles?
Approach times, difficulty, ease of finding areas?
Route guides, topos, etc if available?

Any help would be appreciated.

sanz · Dec 3, 2015 · Raleigh, NC · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 185
PM me

Fleetwood Matt · Dec 3, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 610
I lived in Ecuador 1998-2000 back when they had sucres and the dirtbagging was par none. I'm talking lobster and cold Pilsen on the beach for $1.50. I'm sure much has changed since then. If it's anything like it was, plan for lots of adventure. Half the fun used to be wandering around the countryside bewildering the incredibly friendly campesinos. They may be wondering if you're carrying lost Spanish Gold in your big backpack. I remember some grungy top ropes on a little buttress along the highway east out of Quito heading down the hill toward Tumbaco, but it's not really worth the time. If you get down to Cuenca (and you should, it's a really cool city; I have amazing memories from that place)there is a decent stop at Piedra de La Trucha west of town. North of town not far off the Pan Am is a nice big crag, can't remember the name, just that there is a route in the center called Ruta de La Gruta. Some of these you might call sport climbs but a small rack could go a long way. And to the South on the Pan Am toward Loja a place called Chacalata that had good bouldering.

Unfortunately most of the rock that we could find in Ecuador was volcanic kitty litter. January can be a good season for climbing the high peaks as the weather can be stable. That reminds me. There is a nice exciting 5.8 pitch on the Obispo of El Altar, plus some heinous looking Spanish big walls in the caldera.

Que tenga buen viaje compa

Gunks Jesse · Dec 3, 2015 · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 63
Thanks for the info. We will be in Cuenca part of the time as well so info for that area is also helpful.

Jon H · Dec 3, 2015 · MD/DC · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 13
Make sure to visit the Cuenca Climbing Center ("C Tres") gym when you're there. Built and owned by a very good friend of mine. That will be a great spot for local beta, partners, etc.

sanz · Dec 4, 2015 · Raleigh, NC · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 185
Fleetwood Matt wrote:I lived in Ecuador 1998-2000 back when they had sucres and the dirtbagging was par none. I'm talking lobster and cold Pilsen on the beach for $1.50. I'm sure much has changed since then. If it's anything like it was, plan for lots of adventure. Half the fun used to be wandering around the countryside bewildering the incredibly friendly campesinos. They may be wondering if you're carrying lost Spanish Gold in your big backpack. I remember some grungy top ropes on a little buttress along the highway east out of Quito heading down the hill toward Tumbaco, but it's not really worth the time. If you get down to Cuenca (and you should, it's a really cool city; I have amazing memories from that place)there is a decent stop at Piedra de La Trucha west of town. North of town not far off the Pan Am is a nice big crag, can't remember the name, just that there is a route in the center called Ruta de La Gruta. Some of these you might call sport climbs but a small rack could go a long way. And to the South on the Pan Am toward Loja a place called Chacalata that had good bouldering. Unfortunately most of the rock that we could find in Ecuador was volcanic kitty litter. January can be a good season for climbing the high peaks as the weather can be stable. That reminds me. There is a nice exciting 5.8 pitch on the Obispo of El Altar, plus some heinous looking Spanish big walls in the caldera. Que tenga buen viaje compa
Awesome man. Ceviche and Pilsener on the beach will set you back closer to $10 now, but the climbing is a lot more established! :)

Gunks Jesse · Dec 7, 2015 · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 63
Getting good leads and starting to put together a very rough plan.

Anybody know where, how to access, rack to bring, etc to climb Las Columnas de Tangan? Sweet video here: toposecuador.com/2014/05/18...

Decidí que debo escribir este mensaje en español también.

Mi esposa y yo visitaremos a Ecuador por el mes de enero. Estoy buscando información acerca del escalara sport y tradicional cerca de Quito, Cuenca, y Loja. He hallado mucha información (gracias Sanz!) pero todavía no tengo ninguna idea donde las columnas de Tangan están ni como hallarlas. Si quiere escalar con nosotros favor de enviarme un mensaje. Si tiene información acerca de Tangan, me aprecio mucho si me envíela.

Adam Pecan · Dec 25, 2015 · Moab, UT · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 125
My buddy Felipe has done a lot of development there. Look him up on FB. Feli Proaño. Have fun!

scottthelen · Dec 25, 2015 · Genoa, Nv · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 125
Good climbing around Banos up to 5.12

Gunks Jesse · Dec 28, 2015 · Shawangunk Township, NY · Joined May 2014 · Points: 63
Here is the trip agenda as it stands:

Arrive in Quito 1/1, fly to Cuenca.

Climb at Cojitambo and maybe other areas in Cuenca area - 1 week

Travel south of Loja - lots of good climbing in this area as well. With a huge 3 week opening to explore a lot of areas on extended multiday trips from our home base.

1/29 - return to Quito via plane from Loja and sites see
1/30 - climbing local crags around Quito.
1/31 - back to the states. Gotta get that paper to pay for the next trip!

Going to keep good records, take lots of pics, and try to flesh out the Ecuador info on MP. Potentially a trip report coming... Stay tuned!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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