Best .11's and .12's to do at Millbrook


Original Post
WiseOldMoon · Oct 28, 2015 · West Hartford, Connecticut · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 5
Does any have rec's for some classic routes on the Millbrook cliff at the Gunks?

James Sweeney · Oct 28, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 0
Stop in Rock and Snow and ask Rich Gottlieb or Andrew Zalewski.

MojoMonkey · Oct 28, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 63
If you haven't visited, check out thewhitecliff.com/ for some general Millbrook info, including some nice route write ups (only a few 11s though).

Michael Schneider · Oct 29, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 85
MojoMonkey wrote:If you haven't visited, check out thewhitecliff.com/ for some general Millbrook info, including some nice route write ups (only a few 11s though).
What lines have you done there?

That link is the shizzel!

For get this stuff >

added high plains drifter
In the hopes of

being agreeable I do not know the #grades? The King Of Swing, Big Band Erea.
Square Meal (?) if you can't move to the hole out right yo exit up a climb called Schlamiele.
I don't know the grades but climbed out there a bunch,

(the .12 to do or aim for Nestor Vector with the finish if you know what I mean. ..)

BUT start slow and low try White Rose Or White Corner Or Time Eraser or Wire Wizard first the place is stiff and pure
Run outs up to true 5.9 and sketchy rock with no gear in sight for 20 to 45 feet.

All from memory and I'm not going to look it up but a list of the safer routes to start is a good way to go.

karl kvashay · Oct 29, 2015 · cedar city, utah · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 135
Classics in the 5.11 range
New Frontier
Time Being
Square Meal
Big Band Era

Don't forget these great 5.10s
Cuckoo Man
Raging Bull and an awesome crack just to the right(forget the name)
Delta Waves (2nd pitch)
Mood Indigo
Lesson in History
Time Eraser
Side Pocket
Blue Streak

WiseOldMoon · Oct 29, 2015 · West Hartford, Connecticut · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 5
this is great thanks everyone.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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