Rate my multipitch belay setup


Original Post
BKG · Oct 27, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Just learning how to set up top-belays for multipitch sport routes. A friend is teaching me, but I figured I may as well practice on my own! I'm also going to give a quick description of my setup.

1. (Note that the black and red slings at top to which my anchors are attached are my "bolts")

2. PAS through tie-in points and attached to one bolt with locker, quickdraw clipped to other bolt and to PAS.

3. Cordellete made with double-length nylon sling, ATC-guide attached to end in guide mode. It doesn't look equalized in this picture, but when force is applied to the belay device it equalizes.

4. As I belay, rope is stacked over my PAS.

Let me know if there is anything wrong with this setup or what I need to change! I know there are a variety of other systems that I could use, but at the moment I am interested to see if this one is safe. Thanks!

Belay

Matt Carroll · Oct 27, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 5
Why not just clip the PAS to your yellow sling on the master point or shelf?

Less clutter, less gear, just as strong.

Barrett Pauer · Oct 27, 2015 · Brevard, NC · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225
Ditch the PAS, clove to the masterpoint.

Ancent · Oct 27, 2015 · Reno, NV · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 37
As pointed out, you have three more carabiners than you need. Use the masterpoint; that's what it's for.

eli poss · Oct 27, 2015 · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
tie into the anchor with the rope instead of the PAS. use the PAS only for the raps. if you're walking off instead of rapping, don't even bother bringing it.

I personally prefer a quad for 2 bolts but your set-up is fine too. do keep in mind, though, that a set-up, such as the quad, that is pre-built will be faster and if you're climbing a lot of pitches time builds up.

Derek Jf · Oct 27, 2015 · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 120
GU Climb wrote:Just learning how to set up top-belays for multipitch sport routes. A friend is teaching me, but I figured I may as well practice on my own! I'm also going to give a quick description of my setup. 1. (Note that the black and red slings at top to which my anchors are attached are my "bolts") 2. PAS through tie-in points and attached to one bolt with locker, quickdraw clipped to other bolt and to PAS. 3. Cordellete made with double-length nylon sling, ATC-guide attached to end in guide mode. It doesn't look equalized in this picture, but when force is applied to the belay device it equalizes. 4. As I belay, rope is stacked over my PAS. Let me know if there is anything wrong with this setup or what I need to change! I know there are a variety of other systems that I could use, but at the moment I am interested to see if this one is safe. Thanks!
1 cordalette, 5 lockers, build equalized masterpoint, clove hitch shelf, dont die, dbl check, belay in guide mode

christoph benells · Oct 27, 2015 · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 55
for multi pitch sport (bolts there in good setup) i would just use the rope to do all that.

no need for cordalette, slings, pas...

rope goes from your harness to 1st bolt, locker and clove hitch, then figure 8 on a bight to correct length with atc guide, then cloved hitched to second bolt with a locker.

4 lockers, belay device, nothing else.

Em Cos · Oct 27, 2015 · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0
GU Climb wrote:Let me know if there is anything wrong with this setup or what I need to change! I know there are a variety of other systems that I could use, but at the moment I am interested to see if this one is safe. Thanks!
As others have mentioned, this could be simplified and cleaned up a bit. But yes, it is safe.

Derek Jf · Oct 27, 2015 · Northeast · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 120
christoph benells wrote:for multi pitch sport (bolts there in good setup) i would just use the rope to do all that. no need for cordalette, slings, pas... rope goes from your harness to 1st bolt, locker and clove hitch, then figure 8 on a bight to correct length with atc guide, then cloved hitched to second bolt with a locker. 4 lockers, belay device, nothing else.
touché sir, I respect your gangster

BKG · Oct 27, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Alright, I thank you all for the feedback!

How does this look for a simpler setup?
other

jason.cre · Oct 27, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0
GU Climb wrote:Alright, I thank you all for the feedback! How does this look for a simpler setup?
Das right. But generally I wouldn't recomend a nylon sling. Dynema or cord meant for a cordelette are generally much easier to work with and give you more flexibility with the masterpoint.

eli poss · Oct 27, 2015 · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
looks great although you may want to consider cloving your tie-in to the shelf instead of the master point, especially if you don't have a nice big loop for the master point.

rgold · Oct 27, 2015 · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 40
Read Topic 6 - The Belay on multipitchclimbing.com/. Then buy the e-book.

lucander · Oct 27, 2015 · Stone Ridge, NY · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 175
That set up is excellent.

Nylon v. dyneema is basically an academic debate. Dyneema ties tighter knots with less fabric, weighs less, nylon is more durable long term and offers a little elasticity should a stupidly high fall factor happen.

A great thread. Respectable query, clear answers. Mentoring and no bullshit. This is what makes the internet great.

Pete Spri · Oct 27, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 115
From your original set up, your belay device is lower than it should be relative to how far your pas is extended. Using the rope to tie off the correct length is a better way, IMO.

Ryan Nevius · Oct 27, 2015 · Estes Park, Colorado · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 824
eli poss wrote:looks great although you may want to consider cloving your tie-in to the shelf instead of the master point...
I'd like to second this, to keep everything a bit cleaner. Also, if you want to be totally anal-retentive, consider flipping the bolt-end carabiners so that the gate screws down. They are (slightly) less likely to unscrew or loosen up in this orientation.

tsherry · Oct 27, 2015 · Portland, OR · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 298
Barrett Pauer wrote:Ditch the PAS, clove to the masterpoint.
Bingo

eli poss · Oct 28, 2015 · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 136
Holy shit, did this actually get answered without PAS flaming?! Well done, MP, we're getting better. Oh and, as always, Yer Gonna Die!

Gunkiemike · Oct 28, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 1,850
GU Climb wrote:Alright, I thank you all for the feedback! How does this look for a simpler setup?
I don't like that the load is almost totally on the right-hand piece. Re-tie the master point so that the load is better distributed.

wsperry · Oct 28, 2015 · San Jose/Lafayette · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 30
Another Trick is to tie yourself into the master point as you are, but then put your belay device into the shelf. If you can set the masterpoint higher it helps with rope management when your belaying up the second.

ChrisN · Oct 28, 2015 · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 0
Possibly consider reducing the angle between the two "bolts" by lengthening the sling (ie the master point will be further away from the bolts)... lower angle = less force on the bolts.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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