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Any big walls that the average climber can do the first pitch of?

Original Post
fromtheestuary · · North Carolina · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 60

By no means would I attempt a big wall at this point in my climbing career, but I can still dream right? My question is if there are any big wall lines that a 5.9 leader could do the first 1-3 pitches of free. Classic areas are welcome, Yosemite, Zion, etc. I just think it would be an amazing experience to throw myself and a partner up the first two pitches of a mega classic, just to stand in the shoes of the giants. Thanks MP.

Looking up El Cap this summer.

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

Just about any C1/2 wall would be fine. Look for a straight forward abseil back down and a short walk in.

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90
fromtheestuary wrote:By no means would I attempt a big wall at this point in my climbing career, but I can still dream right? My question is if there are any big wall lines that a 5.9 leader could do the first 1-3 pitches of free. Classic areas are welcome, Yosemite, Zion, etc. I just think it would be an amazing experience to throw myself and a partner up the first two pitches of a mega classic, just to stand in the shoes of the giants. Thanks MP.
I guess you can want to free the start (<5.9) without aiding? Top of my head, you can do Washington Column's first pitch. Moonlight Buttress first pitch. Space Shot's first 3 pitches. If you are willing to aid a little bit, then your option opens up a lot.
fromtheestuary · · North Carolina · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 60

Yeah I've got the basic aid gear (aiders, micro nuts, bashies, ascenders). If so, what would other options be?

Thank you again in advance.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I think a common start to The Nose on El Cap is Pine Line (5.7)

divnamite · · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90
fromtheestuary wrote:Yeah I've got the basic aid gear (aiders, micro nuts, bashies, ascenders). If so, what would other options be? Thank you again in advance.
You can do Spaceshot, a hook, micro nuts and a couple set of regular and offset cams will get you up the thing.
Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981

First few pitches are easy for The Prow

Edit: easy if you've brought your ladders and are aiding it.

csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

Up to Dinner Ledge on the SFWC goes at ~5.9 A1, ie if you pull on some gear for the 10b 2nd pitch, you can keep the free climbing at ~5.9

The start to the Prow is 10a or 10b depending on which start you take, and that is only to the anchors atop of Jo-Jo. If you finish the 1st pitch as per-the topo it is more like 11b. The 2nd pitch shows c2 or c3, depending on the topo you follow, so I wouldn't exactly call that easy. The topo also shows the first pitch of 10 Days After on WC to be between 5.8 and 9+ (I've not done this). So I think it'd actually be a fun day to climb up to Dinner on the SFWC, climb the first pitch and or Jo-Jo for the Prow, and the 1st pitch for Ten Days After. That'd be a good fun day and make the walk up there worth it.

The start to the Muir wall is also 9-10, depending on which start you take.

The El Cap Tree Route (start of Iron Hawk) is also a good way to get up on El Cap without really getting in the way. It is essentially one pitch of aid and three pitches of easy (5.8) free climbing. The free pitches, however are loose and crappy, but they do get you to the tree and a stunning position a few hundred feet up El Cap with great views of the Dawn Wall.

Keep in mind, however, that many of these popular aid routes are going to have clusters of people who are going to have clusters of gear/bags etc

Kevin DeWeese · · @failfalling - Oakland, Ca · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 981
fromtheestuary wrote:Yeah I've got the basic aid gear (aiders, micro nuts, bashies, ascenders). If so, what would other options be? Thank you again in advance.
Heads are not really basic aid gear and if you're climbing trade route pitches for experience any needed (and many unneeded) heads will be in situ. Leave the head kit and hammer at home until you're ready to commit to a more out of the way route.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
kevin deweese wrote: Heads are not really basic aid gear and if you're climbing trade route pitches for experience any needed (and many unneeded) heads will be in situ. Leave the head kit and hammer at home until you're ready to commit to a more out of the way route.
This^^
christopher adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0
fromtheestuary wrote:By no means would I attempt a big wall at this point in my climbing career, but I can still dream right? My question is if there are any big wall lines that a 5.9 leader could do the first 1-3 pitches of free. Classic areas are welcome, Yosemite, Zion, etc. I just think it would be an amazing experience to throw myself and a partner up the first two pitches of a mega classic, just to stand in the shoes of the giants. Thanks MP.
Why don't you up the ante a bit and take on a mid sized wall like Cannon in new Hampshire?

Climbs like Whitney Gilman and Moby Grape are great intro climbs for the aspiring big waller.
fromtheestuary · · North Carolina · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 60

Understood, like I said I just want to dream for an hour. Certainly do not want to inhibit any serious party's time/attempt on a route. Thank you for the suggestions guys.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420
christopher adams wrote: Why don't you up the ante a bit and take on a mid sized wall like Cannon in new Hampshire? Climbs like Whitney Gilman and Moby Grape are great intro climbs for the aspiring big waller.
????

Moby Grape and WG couldn't even be considered long free climbs, much less good intros to wall climbing.
christopher adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0
Mark Hudon wrote: ???? Moby Grape and WG couldn't even be considered long free climbs, much less good intros to wall climbing.
I strongly disagree with you here, but i think mostly on our definitions of wall climbing.

To me, wall climbing is not just aiding. It's also free climbing. Anything more than 700 feet is imho, a big wall.

To someone climbing 5.12, those routes can be climbed in a couple hours as long as there's no traffic. They ain't no thing.

To someone climbing at the grade, they're a great intro to route finding, rope management, and an all day adventure.
csproul · · Pittsboro...sort of, NC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
christopher adams wrote: I strongly disagree with you here, but i think mostly on our definitions of wall climbing. To me, wall climbing is not just aiding. It's also free climbing. Anything more than 700 feet is imho, a big wall. To someone climbing 5.12, those routes can be climbed in a couple hours as long as there's no traffic. They ain't no thing. To someone climbing at the grade, they're a great intro to route finding, rope management, and an all day adventure.
700ft? I pretty much have to agree with Mark here. That's not even grade IV, certainly not a long free climb. Not that they aren't worthy objectives and that they aren't good practice for bigger things, but nobody I know would consider 6 pitches a bigwall or even a relatively long free climb. Totally different ballgame. Even if all 6 pitches were aid, I'd not consider that a bigwall and that would almost certainly take me all day long.

And also not at all what the OP asked about, and not mutually exclusive. The OP asked about doing the start of bigwall routes. Having done this, I can say that before you actually get on a wall, it is pretty cool to do a few pitches and look up at the marvel that is the rest of El Cap looming above you. Doesn't mean you can't go get on a long free route the next day.
Dave Berlin · · Richmond, CA · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 247

I recommend cragging at the base of El Cap. There's several awesome climbs 5.9 and under and there's no better place to get psyched on big walls. Plus, you probably wouldn't be getting in the way of most people trying to do the wall for real. (Just stay away from pine line early in the morning to avoid people starting the nose)

Little John Right - 5.8 3 pitches - Jolly Roger leaves from the top of the last pitch of this.
Pine Line - 5.7 - Best start if climbing The Nose
The Footstool, Right - 5.4 PG-13/R - Awesome spot to hang out and feel like your up on El Cap. NJ Turnpike and El Nino leave from the top of this.
La Cosita Left - 5.7
La Cosita Right - 5.9

There's also a handful of amazing 5.10s at the base if you have a rope gun or want to get ambitious.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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