Route recommendations at Devils Lake

Original Post
canny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Me and my wife are headed up to Wisconsin for a few days and she is fairly new to climbing and really afraid of heights what are some good routes in the 30 to 40 foot range that are 5.8 and below. Prefer to top rope but can lead sport and trad myself but like I said she is still learning.

Gabe B. · · Madison, WI · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 88

Darcy's Wall (5.8) East Rampart
Orgasm (5.8) East Rampart
Foreplay (5.4) East Rampart

Dippy Diagonal (5.7) Major Mass

Birthday Crack (5.7) Birthday Rocks
Left/Right Twin (5.7) Birthday Rocks

Anything at the Guillotine area

These are the ones that I could think of that are awesome and short. I am sure others will have more ideas. If you have just one day, go to the east rampart. There is a ton to do there. There is no sport at Devil's Lake and if you haven't been to DL before, lead a 5.4 first to get a feel for the gear and rock.



Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 190

Beware: a 5.8 at Devil's Lake is not an easy climb. The ratings are old school and often sandbagged even for that, so I would aim for 5.4s if she is a brand new climber. A great place to check out would be the Misery and Stettner Rocks areas on the West bluff. The climbs there are short and there is a nice range of mostly moderate climbs. Access is a little weird (you have to take a special climber's trail off the main west bluff trail) but quick, and it also happens to have some of the best views of the lake.

canny · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Thanks for the recommendations she should have fun on those shorter climbs we are working on getting her over her fear of heights and she has gotten way better. I will defiantly try a few 5.4 before I try leading anything harder. Thanks for the help everyone.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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