Too late to do Sundial/eleventh hour?


Original Post
Michael Beasley · Oct 24, 2015 · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60
I will be in salt lake next weekend and would like to do the eleventh hour route up sundial. Forecast says it will be 62 in slc on the 31st. What kind of Temps and conditions should I be expecting? Am I better off waiting until next year? Thanks for your help and input guys.

JimG · Oct 25, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 0
60 in the valley means it will be fairly cold up on the climb. Forecast is for a chance of a couple small storms moving through earlier in the week, so there could be a light dusting of snow up on the route. The climbing might be fine, but I would expect numb fingers and toes. Someplace like Mule Hollow, Bells Canyon or Little Cottonwood south facing might be a warmer choice. Personally, I would save Eleventh Hour for next year.

Kyler R · Oct 25, 2015 · SLC · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
Friday night is a low of 26 Degrees with a high of 45 and sunny and the potential of 3-5 inches of snow on Thursday into Friday night.

Being a north facing climb at high elevation, how much do you like to suffer?

Kevin MP · Oct 25, 2015 · Redmond, OR · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 158
It will be very cold and once it snows up there it's out of the question as a rock climb. Don't get me wrong, Sundial is fun and the setting is superb but there are numerous all-day outings in the Wasatch that are just as fun and still in season:

Anything in Bell's Canyon(all south facing)
Guert's Ridge on Mt Olympus
South Ridge of Mt Superior
(bonus for these two routes^^ for actually finishing on a summit, unlike Sundial)
Mule Hollow Wall(morning sun)
The Thumb!!!

Michael Beasley · Oct 25, 2015 · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60
Alrighty then. I knew it was probably a no go but I had to check. Thanks for the help. Awesome vertical world I will check into all of those. Should I expect a crowd if I do pentapitch on Saturday?

NickO · Oct 25, 2015 · Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0
Wouldn't say a crowd but you will probably run into a few folks. Check out the Industrial Wall, Japanese Terraces, Sasquatch, and Stifflers Mom in the area.

Kyler R · Oct 25, 2015 · SLC · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0
NickO wrote:Wouldn't say a crowd but you will probably run into a few folks. Check out the Industrial Wall, Japanese Terraces, Sasquatch, and Stifflers Mom in the area.
These are all still north facing in the shade. While they are low enough to not have snow on them, I'd at a minimum have a couple hand warmers in the chalk bag.

Stick to the other mentioned, south facing sunny routes.

Michael Beasley · Oct 25, 2015 · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60
Penta pitch is north facing right?

NickO · Oct 25, 2015 · Utah · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 0
Correct. I was just giving you other ideas around Pentapitch which is north facing. The other side of the canyon will probably be more enjoyable.

Michael Beasley · Oct 26, 2015 · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60
Since you guys are being so helpful and recommendations on south facing crags in LCC. Have decided to just spend my time cragging and leave the more alpine like climbs for early summer. Would really like some south facing crags with multipitch and single pitch routes 10<. Feel free to let me know about south facing routes in AF too, gonna climb there on sunday. thanks for the beta!

Michael Beasley · Oct 26, 2015 · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60
O one last thing. Guidebook. Which one should I get?

Andrew Gram · Oct 26, 2015 · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,430
Downloading the moutainproject app is the best guidebook to the Wasatch right now. The Ruckman Wasatch guide is great but pretty outdated at this point.

Anything on the north side of LCC will work well for you - the Thumb, Gate Buttress, Crescent Crack Buttress, etc.

BackAtItAgain · Oct 26, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 10
download the MP LCC section and head to the Gate Buttress - it will not disappoint.

FYI - we did the 11th Hour a few years back in Oct - it was close to 80 that day in the valley. We still froze!

ton · Oct 26, 2015 · Salt Lake City · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 0
others have mentioned gate buttress and crescent crack buttress. i'd add green adjective gully. same area, more or less

routes: Gordon's, Green Adjective, Crescent Crack to the Coffin, Satan's Corner, etc.

If you've never climbed LCC before, you might consider warming up on Beckey's Wall or Perhaps or Bushwack Crack.

Michael Beasley · Oct 26, 2015 · Boise, ID · Joined May 2015 · Points: 60
You guys freaking rock. See what I did there haha.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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