Looking to purchase aggressive shoes but I don't know what kind.


Original Post
Phil Lipton · Oct 19, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0
So I've been climbing for a year now and since I began I have used 5.10 rogue since I began. I climb between 5.10a and 11a indoors and beginning to challenge myself more (don't we all challenge ourselves anyways?). I want to go to a more aggressive shoe now that I'm making progress and all. What is a good shoe to graduate to next? I've been looking at La Sportivas and the place I climb (earth treks!) has the company coming in for a demo day in a few weeks.

Any feedback is helpful! Thanks!

Sean Haynes · Oct 19, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 71
Try the miura, solutions, and testarossa.

I own the solution, very pleased, really comfortable on overhang and nubs. The miura is a more comfortable version of that with the arch support and less rubber on the knuckle. The testarossa, well I can't say much about them. I wore them for maybe 30 mins and was really uncomfortable.

Not sure what kind of climbing you're into though, you may want some mythos

S. Neoh · Oct 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0
Check out both the Katana and Katana Lace. They are in many ways different.
Above all else, go with a shoe that fit well and your feet are comfortable in, or at least semi comfortable in.

Phil Lipton · Oct 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 0
sean.haynes wrote:Try the miura, solutions, and testarossa. I own the solution, very pleased, really comfortable on overhang and nubs. The miura is a more comfortable version of that with the arch support and less rubber on the knuckle. The testarossa, well I can't say much about them. I wore them for maybe 30 mins and was really uncomfortable. Not sure what kind of climbing you're into though, you may want some mythos
I do a lot of lead climbing and a little bouldering. Mainly indoors right now but I have started to go outside to a few spots when I have been able to go.

Theriault · Oct 20, 2015 · Quebec, Quebec · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 168
Agressive shoes or better shoes? Unless you do 90% overhangs or bouldering you are better off with a more classic shoe aka Muira, Anasazie etc ... like i said, depends on your climbing, I see to many new climbers jump into crazy downturned shoes and do 90% of their climbing on 5.6 slabs ...

S. Neoh · Oct 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0
Theriault wrote: I see to many new climbers jump into crazy downturned shoes and do 90% of their climbing on 5.6 slabs ...
LOL. And unfortunately somewhat true. A first for me just the other day, thick socks with Blackwing, climbing low angle blocky stuff.

Mike Brady · Oct 20, 2015 · Van Diesel, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 551
I would just stick with a nicer all around shoe for now. Anasazis are awesome, Galileo's are one of my favorites, and the new Vapor V's are great and they perform at a high level.

It really comes down to finding something that fits your foot. Go try on a bunch of shoes and try to find the "one".

pierref · Oct 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
between anasazi VCS (i love it in granit) and testarossa or miura (i hate it everywhere), there is scarpa vapor. i use it in long limestone routes in the 10's range. It is acceptable for a full day (if ended by a cold foot bath!!!)

Mark Paulson · Oct 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 30
The Miura was my first "real" shoe, and I've always had a pair since. They have a good blend of performance and comfort, and because they don't have parts that break or wear out (Solution straps, VS velcro), they're burly enough for multiple resoles. Ondra climbed 5.15c in them, so they're certainly capable of handling whatever you throw at them.

Whatever you get, save your Rogues. Resole them when they wear need it, and use them as your comfort/warm-up shoe. It boggles my mind how many people use $175 shoes for an entire session. Having a cheap, comfortable pair of shoes for your warmups will save you a ton of money (and toe-disfigurement) over time.

divnamite · Oct 20, 2015 · New York, NY · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 90
Phil Lipton wrote:So I've been climbing for a year now and since I began I have used 5.10 rogue since I began. I climb between 5.10a and 11a indoors and beginning to challenge myself more (don't we all challenge ourselves anyways?). I want to go to a more aggressive shoe now that I'm making progress and all. What is a good shoe to graduate to next? I've been looking at La Sportivas and the place I climb (earth treks!) has the company coming in for a demo day in a few weeks. Any feedback is helpful! Thanks!
If your climb pretty much 90-100% in the gym, that means you won't do any slabs, then go 100% aggressive shoes like Miura VS, Solutions.

Moritz B. · Oct 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 90
Get the Scarpa Booster S as a soft shoe.
The Instinct VS is is also a great, aggressive shoe that can be used for all kind of climbing, depending on how you size em.

S. Neoh · Oct 20, 2015 · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 0
Mark Paulson wrote:The Miura was my first "real" shoe, and I've always had a pair since. They have a good blend of performance and comfort, and because they don't have parts that break or wear out. Whatever you get, save your Rogues. Resole them when they wear need it, and use them as your comfort/warm-up shoe. It boggles my mind how many people use $175 shoes for an entire session. Having a cheap, comfortable pair of shoes for your warmups will save you a ton of money (and toe-disfigurement) over time.
+1 on both.
As an extreme example, I climbed almost exclusively in my yellow Miura for 8 or 9 years, going through multiple resoles and rand repair jobs. I kept them around as an occasional, comfy shoe for another 6! I get less expansive shoes for the gym and resole them with C4 after they are worn. Thumbs up for the older Scarpa Vapor V. I bought a pair at a great price, somewhat comfy, but surprised myself how well they climb.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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