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Moab Sport Climbing


Original Post
Alex M. Smith · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 95

Hey guys!

Heading to Moab over Thanksgiving and looking for some suggestions as far as sport climbing goes. I've heard Wall Street is a good location, but wanted to see if there are any other spots to check out.

Additionally, looking for a guidebook that will cover any of the given suggestions. Let me know what you think!

Thanks,
-Alex

AL . · · UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 145

Get the "High on Moab" guide book by Karl Kelley. Best book for the area, period. As far as sport climbing goes, Wall St is a good start and the guidebook provides some beta for sport climbing in the mountains as well (but come November the mtns might be a little too chilly). Some better advice would be to wrangle a double rack to #3's before you head down (get started on trad climbing if you haven't already), and try to hunt some partners down in Indian Creek. The quality Moab climbing is in the cracks.

Donovan Allen · · Soft Lake City · Joined May 2012 · Points: 390

Ice cream parlor has sport

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 540

Check out Mars and the scar both on Potash rd.

Alex M. Smith · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 95

Thanks for the book suggestions, much appreciated! Any specific route recommendations for a low 5.10 leader?

Julius Grisette · · Carbondale · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 5

Buy the high on moab book and check out the theatre. Only sporty place I've really been in Moab. There are a couple sport routes on wall street, but nothing really for a low 10 leader I think...

Dustin B · · Steamboat · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 1,301

ice cream parlor, wall street and mountainproject.com/v/sunsh… 'sunshine wall' also the theater/cinema and the stuff in the la sals from the new book look good too, maybe cold though with shade/elevation.

of course there is mill creek but 5.10 and below I'm not sure how much there is there.

AL . · · UT · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 145

If you don't climb at least 5.11 basically every time you climb then I wouldn't recommend Mill Creek, it's pretty heady, not forgiving to beginners, and stacked with routes that are mainly 5.12 and harder. The Gold Basin (North Dakota Crags in the guide book) is really friendly to the 510 leader but may be getting pretty chilly. Wall St has sport routes from 5.4 to 5.13, plenty for leaders of any ability. The Mars wall on Potash is also stacked with easy sport climbs. The Theatre is alright but super chossy (as in if you don't wear your helmet YER GUNNA DIIIIIIEEEEEE!)

James Hicks · · Grand Junction, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 131

Upper/Lower Dakota crags in the La Salles are a blast, probably 30-45 minutes outside Moab to get to the TH with free camping nearby. There are enough routes to keep you busy for a few days, and not near as heady as Mill Creek. Just bring a stick clip. High on Moab has the crag info. Most the routes are 5.9 to 5.12, with the majority being in the 5.10 range I believe. The crag gets sun after about mid morning. My friends said it was actually hot enough last weekend they were hoping for some clouds to float by. If the sun is out you should be fine for a while still.

JCM · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 95

Facts:
1. Moab is a great place to visit, regardless of what you plan to do there.
2. Moab is not exactly known for having a plethora of 5.10 sport climbs; the crack climbing is really where Moab shines. Being in Moab with just draws will feel quite limiting; you will not be able to do the area classics.
3. The best sport climbing around Moab tends to be quite hard, and is often a tad runout at that.
4. A few crags with enough 5.10 sport climbing to fill a few days can be found, but you will have to really look for it. The quality (and certaintly the quantity) may not be as high as an area more geared toward moderate sport cragging.
5. Thanksgiving in Moab can often be a bit chilly, so crags with sun are nice.
6. There are other areas in the region that will provide much more of the sort of climbing you are looking for. Saint George will have an order of magnitude more 5.10 sport climbing than Moab, and the weather is warmer too. It isn't quite so spectacular a hang as Moab, but its still pretty nice.
7. Red Rocks is another option with similar characteristics to Saint George.

Suggestions:
1. If your primary objective is to do a Moab trip to see the area, and finding a few days of climbing to do while there is a secondary goal, then you can certainly find some climbing that you can do. See the suggestions above. A couple days of those crags could combine with a couple days of MTB or desert hiking to make for a nice trip.
2. If your primary objective is to do a focused climbing trip, Saint George would likely serve you better.
3. Remember that just beacause a place is a great climbing area doesn't mean that it is neccesarily a great choice for your goals and abilities. Moab is a 5-star climbing area, and a 5-star place to hang out, but really only 2-stars for the 5.10 sport climbing.

Seth Kane · · Bozeman, Montana · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 111

There'll be enough Bozemanites (I know of 20+) in Moab over creeksgiving that I think you'd be better off hanging out in the creek top roping and learning trad or finding someone to follow up a tower.

JoeLars41 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 60

+1 for Saint George. Lots-o-sport climbing in your grade range.

Good for another reason, which is that there are a variety of rock types really close together. If you have a big rain you might get shut out of sandstone for the whole weekend, but you could get on basalt or limestone crags soon thereafter.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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