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TR routes in Holcomb Valley


Original Post
Stringlord · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

All,

My wife and I are limited in our lead climbing skills, does anyone know of TR routes in Holcomb Valley where we can scramble to the top and set up TR anchors??

Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,122
Xxx wrote:All, My wife and I are limited in our lead climbing skills, does anyone know of TR routes in Holcomb Valley where we can scramble to the top and set up TR anchors??
Holcomb Valley is pretty much all freestanding towers of rock so there isn't really an option to reach the tops of any of the routes without leading something. There are many easy routes, so just sack up and lead some of the easier routes. You've got to learn to lead somewhere, and Holcomb Valley would be a great place to do it.
Stringlord · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

Thanks for the reply...

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

kennoyce ..... speaks the truth.

OR you could bribe another climber to "please string my TR" and hand them your gear to use.

I do this sometimes, no shame in asking.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 105

You can TR at Castle Rock in Big Bear though.

Stringlord · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

What beginning sport routes would you recommend at Holcomb Valley?

C Miller · · CA · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 57,065
Click here for a list of sport routes 5.7 and under.

Best Route For You

Feel free to modify the route finder to match your needs and have fun out there!
paul.adams.3 · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 40

I believe at one point i scrambled down to the anchors of coyotes at sunset. It might have been a lil sketch so unless youre super comfortable i wouldnt recommend it. But that climb was also my first lead (as it probably is for many). If you can climb 5.7, go for it!

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 310

Xxx .... go for it, you might find that leading is much better than TR.

good luck, have a blast.

Stringlord · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

thanks for all the reply's "Im going for it"!!!!!

Stringlord · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

I think I'm going to lead the 5.7 By Crackie and the 5.6 Gold Standard on the Gold Wall....

JWong Wong · · Los Angeles, California · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 10

Excellent choices.

On the ledge just a bit lower from the belay for Gold Standard are three other moderates you can do since you are right there.

Motherlode Rock has a couple moderates. Wild rose and Shantytown Swing. I think you could top rope the trad moderate, psychedelic Sluice from the anchor of Shantytown. Or if you feel good after Coyote, there are a couple 10.a climbs on the left side of mother lode.

Have a good trip.
Jason

Stringlord · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

I love mountain project, should have created an account long ago, didn't realize I'd get so many reply a to my question, thanks again for all responses...

Ryan Hex · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 30

Check out Skyy Slab at Holcomb too. There's a short 5.5, fun 5.6, and a easy 5.7 all next to each other. And this area doesn't see a ton of traffic.

Stringlord · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

Ryan,

Where is SkyLab in relation to Coyore Crag?

Steve_Sil. · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2012 · Points: 85

Skyy slab can be found easily on this map: mountainproject.com/images/…

It is a fun very short wall. As with slab it is harder after it is baked in the sun all day so try to catch it in the shade.

Ryan Hex · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 30

Thanks Steve. That map is great for finding the different walls at HVP. I definitely recommend Naughty Pine (5.6) at Skyy. A little longer than the other routes and a easy climb with fun movement.

Also to add to the Wildrose (5.6) recommendation, there also a route called Blasting Cap (5.3) directly to the left of Wildrose, which is a great beginner lead.

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 10,121
Steve_Sil. wrote:Skyy slab can be found easily on this map: mountainproject.com/images/… It is a fun very short wall. As with slab it is harder after it is baked in the sun all day so try to catch it in the shade.
Thanks for referencing the map! I agree Skye Slab is a good beginner spot - if you're okay with slabs. Fever Pitch is also a good (more suitable) first lead.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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