Best J-Tree Intro Trad Areas

headead wrote:Guy, Have people really died on toe jam?? Got any info on what happened?

I'm pretty sure Guy was making that one up. To illustrate how dangerous The Grim Reaper, er, The Old Woman, is.

Edit: But in the spirit of Guy's levity, they should have called the climb Toe Tag, not Toe Jam. Get your affairs in order if you're going to climb that widow maker.

OP, get a guidebook for sure. Just went up there without one. It was a bitch. I had MP to look at but couldn't find shit until I drove back to the entrance and got a map. They have a few different ones they can give you. Approaches can take up a lot of precious time in the mornings and evenings when it's cool. Definitely research where you want to go before you get there so you don't waste time. Be at your destination before the sun rises.

Oh not making it up..... back on my first trip to JT in 1973, there was a long blood streak down Toe Jam.... The body had been removed the day before. It was a real eye opener for me.

Then It happened a few years ago again.

People go to some bolts for a belay anchor, way over to the side, then when brand new climber follows and takes the fall at the crux.... the big pendo happens and with or without brain bucket.... the blood runs out right in the same place and down the little water groove..... Not joking about these.

be safe .... Bonneville, get to know the place, take your time, work up through the grades. And one more thing.... Stoppers work better than cams in many of the flaring, grainy and irregular cracks.

Guy Keesee wrote:Oh not making it up..... back on my first trip to JT in 1973, there was a long blood streak down Toe Jam.... The body had been removed the day before. It was a real eye opener for me. Then It happened a few years ago again. People go to some bolts for a belay anchor, way over to the side, then when brand new climber follows and takes the fall at the crux.... the big pendo happens and with or without brain bucket.... the blood runs out right in the same place and down the little water groove..... Not joking about these.

Gnarly! seeing that blood streak would have spooked me for sure

I remember my mentor telling me about how some folks try to top rope toe jam off those bolts to the right... I wonder how often that happens
Thanks for sharing the story!

For Bonneville's sake, he should know that he tripped into a big, inside joke about Double Cross. If you want your eyes to start bleeding, you can find the rants that Guy is referring to. Frankly, if you've climbed trad in Little Cottonwood and the like, you'll want to hop on it. It's a great route, you just have to know how to climb trad safely, which is evidently a problem for some folks. Anyways...

Someone upthread mentioned Mental Physics, which is one of my faves. Great setting and climbing, plus a nice hike to get to it. While you're in the area, Breakfast of Champions (5.8) on N. Astro Dome is great. Though a little harder, My Laundry (5.9) on S. Astro Dome isn't hard for the grade and good fun, though I heard its gotten bombarded with bird poo lately. All three of those are two pitches each and Josh classics.

Guy Keesee wrote: The Old Woman is cursed I tell you and is pissed off.

The Old Woman has only one problem IMO and that is its proximity to the road. I still would not even call Double Cross PG13. I don't really want to beat this up to badly but to come to JTree and not climb it if you are a competent leader who is on the grade is a mistake. It's literally 15 feet of 5.nothing/class4 with a hands free rest to place your first piece of gear (bomb proof nut) and then you just jam on up it.

Fat Dad wrote:For Bonneville's sake, he should know that he tripped into a big, inside joke about Double Cross.

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/double-cross-discussion/106035802

--- yes, its really 23 pages---

two words : de-flowered , it's only 5.6

mountainproject.com/v/deflo…

john strand wrote: ??? wires ?? I think this is a bit of a generalization, don't you ?i have found that many JT moderates need larger cams

Sorry you misunderstood. Wires, Hexentrics and cams up to Friend 4 - no need to double up. Concentrate on wires and hexentrics, if you feel comfortable placing passive protection.

George Wu wrote: Brian probably means Nomad Ventures in the town of Twenty-nine Palms. There are multiple entrances do Joshua Tree National Park, not near each other, and in some cases, not connected to other roads within the park. Just clarifying with a couple of details...

No I mean the entrance in Joshua Tree. Park Blvd. The little hippie store near RT 62.

The TRAD guide (Winger) is good for average grade of 5.8, it also is a quick reference for shade/sun, which is how we pick areas. Also watch out for windy areas.
We also use the Gaines and Miramontes books.

DairyQueen wall has several good cracks-5.7-5.9, easy approach NE face

Lost horse , Rock Garden wall, several great cracks-5.8-5.9, NF but out of the wind.Also Cakewalk, 5.8 near here.
Hemingway wall, white lightning is a great first JT 5.7, pretty stiff.will want #4.
Feltoneon Physics, fun 5.8 .NF wall
Sail Away- fun 5.8, faces north
Overhang bypass- 5.7, takes some puzzling to figure out. great sunset climb, faces west, The Flake too.

I also don't think Double Cross is very dangerous, if you come in from the right, place big cams before traverse left into main crack. I think it was a #2 or #3 in a pocket, then you will need more for the handcrack.

Dappled Mare- great multi pitch, SW face.

Double set of cams to #3 camalot., for most stuff.

Guy Keesee wrote:Stay away from Double Cross. That climb has kilt about 5 - 8 climbers.... It needs bolts for safety.

Om my second trip to Josh, to climb, there was blood and brains splattered on Double Cross from the day before.

To the OP, if you want moderate climbs and no crowds you might try heading out of the Boy Scout trailhead. Lots of areas to climb. Lots of easy and moderate leads. The Chief at Parking Lot Rocks is a nice 5.5 lead, and Route 66 on Gilligans Island is the best 5.4 in the park. Would make for a nice introduction and you'd avoid the crowds at Hemingway and Dairy Queen.

If you get there really early, Trash Can has a wide variety of route. But it can get super crowded. Some people find being able to belay from picnic tables quite attractive. I learned a lot about leading there, though, at opportune times.

Brian wrote: No I mean the entrance in Joshua Tree. Park Blvd. The little hippie store near RT 62.

Coyote Corner

Gary Schenk wrote: Om my second trip to Josh, to climb, there was blood and brains splattered on Double Cross from the day before..

I hear there is usually a pile of bodies at the base and then someone adds a bolt and it becomes way safer and then the bolt gets chopped and then people start dying again.

Brady... you got that right... LOL have fun yoall

I am going to bring three gallons of pig blood to the old woman next time I go to jtree and dump it on the little rock at the botton. I know just the spot since I too have seen the carnage.

gription wrote:I am going to bring three gallons of pig blood to the old woman next time I go to jtree and dump it on the little rock at the botton. I know just the spot since I too have seen the carnage.

Can you sprinkle some on that pesky boulder underneath White Rasta. That thing is just outright terrifying and someone should move it. I mean who wants bouldering to be dangerous?