Small crimps to supplement hangboard.
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Hello all. |
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Add weight |
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Popsicle sticks. Use them as shims to make the holds on your board smaller. If you wanna get really fancy you can come up with a Velcro system to hold them in place. |
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mozeman wrote:Add weight Many studies show that more stress on larger holds is more beneficial than less stress on smaller holds. The Anderson brothers have written a few articles on this, though I cannot find them off handActually, it seems to me like the Andersons are pretty highly in favor of using small holds with weight removed, if your goal routes warrant it. Their big emphasis is specificity; if you climb (or, rather, want to climb) on tiny holds, you should train on tiny holds. This often entails removing weight with a pulley system. More here rockclimberstrainingmanual.…. Other sources, including Eva Lopez, favor the point you make, that greater gains are made by using bigger holds with more weight. Mike Doyle follows this approach too; he trained for the tiny crimps on Neccesary Evil by hanging astonishing (150+ lbs) amounts of added weight on non-tiny holds. There is probably some truth to both arguments, and it may be wise to address both of them. For my "bread and butter" grips, mainly the 1/2 crimp, I like to do both approaches. I'll train a larger (2 cm) edge with weight added to blast the forearms with a fair bit of weight, and also train a smaller (<1 cm) edge with weight removed to get used to the leverage, angles, and pain of a smaller hold. In short, it is worth it to add in some smaller holds. In addition to those mentioned above, some other options for doing this are: - Make your own edges out of wood. Get some scraps of decent-quality wood of the correct thickness, and file it down to bevel the edge. This is a very, very good option. It is cheap, customizable, and wood is a nice material to train on. - Invest in a new hangboard. Metolius hangboards kind of suck. There aren't any small edges, and the texture is this strange unpleasant combination that can be painful and slick at the same time. For really small edges, the best options available are the Rock Prodigy Board, the Bam Board (fully adjustable means you can choose exactly the edge size you want), the Moon Board, and the Eva Lopez boards. I like the Bam Board the most out of these, but that largely is due to a preference for the wood texture. Most of these are pretty spendy, so that is a consideration. |
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Core Climbing in the UK makes symmetrical mirror image crimp holds |
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JCM wrote: - Make your own edges out of wood. Get some scraps of decent-quality wood of the correct thickness, and file it down to bevel the edge. This is a very, very good option. It is cheap, customizable, and wood is a nice material to train on.I think this is the easiest way to get a good crimp setup. I have some approx 3/8" molding that i use for my medium crimps and it works really well, you can round the edges a bit so it isn't too uncomfortable. |
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Um, just thinking out loud: |
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jdberndt wrote:Um, just thinking out loud: You could buy two sets. Or, call the company to ask if you can get two of the same hold. Or, look at system holds, which often come in pairs, e.g. atomikclimbingholds.com/bol….The holds he's talking about arent symmetrical, so even with two sets the left hand and right hand grips would be different. Wood strips or systems grips are probably your best bet! (edited to add: atomikclimbingholds.com/bol… those might do you well) |
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Oh. I get it now. Ignore me and carry on. |