Cordelette knots


Original Post
Jacob G · · Charlotte · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Hi guys. Im climbing more multi pitch routes these days and building belay anchors seems to be a common need.
I've typically used webbing or long slings for this but have moved to cordelette for longer lengths.
I'm curious as to what knots seem to be preferred for tying cordelette into a loop for equalized master points. I have used water knots with webbing with great success and speed and would like to hear what others are using if anything different.
Thanks.

Paul-B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 115

Water knot for webbing. Double fisherman's for cord (unless it's dyneema, then triple fisherman's)

B-Mkll Mackall · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 1,471

Triple Fisherman's join is typically manufacturer recommendation for cordelette. Though I usually just use a double fisherman's...

I don't see much reason or use for any other type of knot as long as your cord is in the 5mm-7mm range.

Jeff J · · Bozeman · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110

I use a tripple fishermans knot and leave the cord in a permant loop. If I neeed longer I can use a sling but thats a rare event for me...

ROC · · Englewood, CO · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 205

Flat overhand. Quick. Easily tied and untied. You don't always need or want your cord in a loop.

ECTradClimber · · Rosendale · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 80

I got with a triple fishermans knot if it's a smaller diameter cord b/c ill rarely untie it and I can get more cordage for similar weight/bulk.

If it is larger, I tend towards the over hand knot (aka euro death knot, love that name) b/c it's easier to untie and use as a single cord or to extend your rope for a rap if you come up a bit short. Im sure ill take crap for that, but hasn't failed me yet.

Jacob G · · Charlotte · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

Great info. Will go with the double fisherman.
I like to keep things simple.

Jacob G · · Charlotte · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 0

And I'm with you on the euro death knot. It's my go to for a double rope rap.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Flat overhand works fine.

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330

I have in the past used double (nylon) or triple (dyneema) fisherman's to join cord into a loop. I switched to not tieing a loop at all and just a 8 on a bight at each end (see CMac's Supertopo video ), and now I sometimes don't tie any knots into the cord at all and just clove into each piece (RGold I think posted a video somewhere here on MP of a similar process ). mountainproject.com/v/how-t... youtube.com/watch?v=2q2PdnA...

edit: I was confusing the video posted by RGold with another. The above video shows a cord starting with no knots, but is essentially the same as starting with an overhand knot joining the cord, with the final loop of cord not clipped to a piece. I'll have to find another video with the clove hitches at each piece.

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

Clove hitch is cool but it's not a knot. I don't see it as acceptable as a main part of and anchor. If a climber wants to clove hitch into and anchor I'm fine with that but I'm not building an anchor with a clove hitch. Triple fishermans for me and I never untie it.

Wblack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 5
djh860 wrote:Clove hitch is cool but it's not a knot. I don't see it as acceptable as a main part of and anchor. If a climber wants to clove hitch into and anchor I'm fine with that but I'm not building an anchor with a clove hitch. Triple fishermans for me and I never untie it.
Untying a cordelette is a great tool, and a properly tied flat overhand is a perfectly acceptable knot for this. And people don't need to be afraid of the clove hitch. See link below.

http://www.guidetricksforclimbers.com/index.php/appendix/78-gtc-articles/78-use-and-abuse-of-the-clove-hitch
Jake T · · Prescott AZ · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 5

Djh

Why don't you consider clove hitches to be acceptable? Climbers have been building anchors with them, tying in with them and even self belaying with them for longer than either of us has been alive. If you just don't like them then that's fine, but I would hate to see a newer climber discouraged from using such a versatile knot because of a post like yours.

To the op,
I like using an open cord with figure eights on a bight as well. The fisherman knots are a pain to untie so if you want a loop I'd probably just go with a edk.

djh860 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 110

I use clove hitch I just build anchors with knots

Jake T · · Prescott AZ · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 5

Fair enough

csproul · · Davis, CA · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 330
djh860 wrote:I use clove hitch I just build anchors with knots
This must really set off your un-safe-o-meter:

mountainproject.com/v/ancho...
WyomingSummits · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

If anchor knots could get icy, I'll use an easier release. Otherwise I'm going with double fisherman on nylon.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 456

figure 8 bend. strong as a fishermans, easy to untie and retie, and, best of all, easy to remember when it's dark and you're cold, tired, and hungry because virtually every climber knows how to tie a figure 8. keep it simple

Tacticool · · Republic Of Korea · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 95

Double fish and every climber should know it as well

Michael C · · New Jersey · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 340

For webbing, water knot is pretty much the standard. Ensure you have long tails and for added saftey, tie overhand knots in the tails to prevent them from slipping through the knot (it's been tested).

For cordelette, I used to use double fisherman but now use the surgeon knot as it's easier to untie. If I were to tie a flat overhand (EDK), I would just double the knot and leave long tails. And, for added saftey, tie barrel knots in the tails to prevent slippage (similiar to the OH knot on tail of webbing with water knot).

And for certain types of material (ex, pro cord) you need to tie a triple, not a double fisherman. Check with manufacturer.

Truck13 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 0

No reason to keep your cordelette tied at all. Most every anchor you build with a cordelette you tie a knot to create the master point and shelf. That knot closes the system. Starting with closed cordelette limits the options for the anchor. If you need to untie the closed cordelette, untying the knot that closed it is miserable. That knot often has been in place for as long as the cordelette has been in use and loaded repeatedly.

None of this was my idea. It was taught to me by a AMGA certified guide.

Back to the OP, when I used to close my cordelette, I used a double fisherman.

Truck13

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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