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Rope Suggestions


Original Post
Alex M. Smith · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 95

After a long run with my previous rope, I'm in the market for a new one. I was wondering what people had for suggestions?

Most of my climbing will be single pitch, with the occasional multipitch fun. I'm thinking just one rope will do the trick for both ice/rock, but that puts me into a pretty expensive rope when it comes to 70m + dry treated. My previous rope was 10.2mm, but I'm thinking about something along the lines of 9.8 so its note quite as bulky while keeping some durability.

Options I'm looking at:
-70m (necessary to rap off many ice routes)
-dry treated (for ice)
-9.8mm?
-bi color (or marked center) - not a necessity

Let me know if anyone has any suggestions or recommendations! Any reasons to get a certain type/brand/style would be appreciated, especially if you know some good deals out there.

Thanks!
-Alex

Don Ferris III · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

Mammut infinity is what 90% of posters will say for good reason. 9.5 is good weight/confidence ratio for me. I've also had excellent experience with similar diameters from bluewater.

Jake Jones · · Richmond, VA · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 1,729

Depends on how you like your ropes to handle. Mammut Tusk 9.8 and Bluewater Pulse 9.9 are quality lines, but tend to be a little less supple and more wiry. I've also had Edelrid and Metolius ropes, both 9.8mm, and they are a bit softer and pliable over time. I like all these brands (not sure who makes Metolius ropes or if they manufacture them in house, though I doubt it) and I don't think you can really go wrong with any of them. Length and pattern are also matters of preference and necessity in my opinion. I've never owned anything over a 60, but there have been a couple times where I wish I had a 70. YMMV.

Mike Knight · · Canton, Mi · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 50

mammut tusk has all that you want.

eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 513
Don Ferris wrote:Mammut infinity is what 90% of posters will say for good reason. 9.5 is good weight/confidence ratio for me. I've also had excellent experience with similar diameters from bluewater.
+1 for mammut infinity. i don't own one but i've used one before and like it much better than my rope
bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

what belay device ...

and how many whippers will you be taking ...

;)

HassleSchroff · · Dayton, OH · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 10

+1 for the Mammut Tusk

I've had the Tusk (superdry, 9.8mm x 70m) for about two years now, and it's a great rope. Durable, supple, and feeds very easy (but not too easy) through any device I've used. "Big Blue" hasn't let me down yet!

Using the Mammut Tusk on Boilerplate in The Crossroads at the Red River Gorge.

Ben Dubs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 16

Have you washed the mammut tusk yet? I'm afraid to wash mine but it certainly needs a cleaning (heard some horror stories). Have a rope brush and just going to soak/clean it in water. If so did yours come out fine?

But certainly +1 for the Tusk - love how it handles

HassleSchroff · · Dayton, OH · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 10
Ben Dubs wrote:Have you washed the mammut tusk yet? I'm afraid to wash mine but it certainly needs a cleaning (heard some horror stories). Have a rope brush and just going to soak/clean it in water. If so did yours come out fine? But certainly +1 for the Tusk - love how it handles
Yep, I washed mine about two months ago. I have a side-load washer, and I ran a clean cycle (to wash out any residue detergent) before washing it on a warm gentle cycle. I shortened the rope using a Chain Sinnet and it didn't get too terribly tangled. You can actually use a mild synthetic detergent if it's really dirty, similar to what you would use with wool (see Mammut link below)

My dryer has a removable shelf for drying shoes and stuff, so after washing I placed it on that to dry with the cool air dry/no heat setting. You could also hang it, but at 70m that takes up quite a lot of space. The rope looked nearly new after all was said and done, and handles just the same.

Source: Mammut on Rope Care
RDW · · Toronto, Canada · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 185

Blue Water Lighting Pro 9.7. Comes in bi-colour and with double dry treatment.

I've had mine 2 years and love it.

teece303 · · Highlands Ranch, CO · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 596

Let me add to the pile and day that the Mammut Infinity is a damn fine rope. I recommend it without hesitation. Mammut makes great ropes in general, it's a hard to go wrong with them. The Infinity is a cool rope: it's light, but not fragile.

I am really spoiled these days by bi-pattern ropes. They are annoyingly expensive, but dang the pattern change in the middle is awesome.

I also have a Mammut Galaxy 10.0 : good rope. And a Maxim Glider 10.2. Also a good rope, but more of a workhorse.

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 521

Just bought a Mammut Infinity 70 m, dry rope (that I couldn't afford).

The package says it's "lap coiled" and doesn't need to be carefully unwrapped prior to use to avoid tangles. Is that for real? It looks like it could be.

Edit: I flaked it out once, ran it twice through a double-rope rappel, and it's been curlicue-free. All without a lot of fussy unwrapping from the package. Amazing.

Andrewww · · Concord, NH · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 625

Have you looked at a Sterling Velocity in a 70m double dry bi-pattern?
I use Sterling's Photon 7.8's for ice and the Helix 9.5 for rock, but The gym has Velocity's for lead ropes and they are great.

Bill Kirby · · San Francisco CA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Why not stick with 10.2mm? I bought a Bluewater Eliminator 10.2mm 70M last winter for single pitch climbs. If I'm cragging it sometimes means I'm leading on up to setup a TR for others. We take a few laps then on to the next route. The 10.2mm is a little heavy but im not carrying it.. Unless my partner is my wife. I like a thicker rope that will last longer for those single pitch gangropes. The best part was the price. I bought the Eliminator for $139 from Campsaver.

I have a Bluewater Icon 9.1mm 70M for multipitch or days when no top roping is happening. No one seems to enjoy TRing with me and that 9.1, hehehe..

Bill Czajkowski · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 30

I have a Mammut Tusk 9.8. Don't like it much. Really stiff, attracts dirt like nothing else I've seen. Got a core shot in it from tying in near mid-point for a 1.6 rope length top rope set up - really wasn't too upset about it. Most of my previous ropes were Beals and Sterlings which I have much preferred. I recently acquired two thinner diameter Mammuts which I really like, but the poor handling of the Tusk just doesn't do it for me.

Robert Murner · · Ga · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 65

Edelweiss Energy Arc. Lol

Jim Fox · · Westminster, CO · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 50

I have always been very happy with Mammut ropes- I have one that is retired and am currently using a 60m Supernova 10.0mm and just bought a 70m Tusk, 9.8mm that is a really nice rope. I really liked that it was coiled "ready to use" and I didn't have to go through the hassle of uncoiling the factory coil like I did with the Supernova

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Just get the cheapest one you can find.

Thaddeus VanDenBerghe · · Salt Lake Sizzle, Utah · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 55

The Beal Booster with the safety control (SC). Its a great catch!

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Another +1 for the Tusk or infinity. The infinity has got to be my favorite single rope for ice climbing.

Austin Eddy · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 10

Bluewater lightning pro is a great 9.7 70m. I've never had the dry treated or bicolor version though.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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