Ropes for Red Rocks

Derrick wrote:For Willk since this seems to be his thread now I've been making periodic trips to RR for a few years, definitely not local. I would consider bringing the single 70 and one of the other ropes as a tag though. Many descents go fine with a 70 or can be walked off, but you wouldn't be limited to only those routes, and you wouldn't be bringing two ropes on routes that don't need them (most routes IME). If you prefer climbing on a single line I would think this is the way to go. If you/your partner are comfortable with doubles, and prefer them then there's your answer. RR in march can be crazy, always make sure you have a backup route or two.

This. Also, if you plan on rapping the solar slab gully a 70m is really nice as some of the rap stations a really easy to miss. Or, if you're a quick climber, just climb solar slab and walk off

Will, what routes were you looking at climbing?

I've done some rope-stretching rappels with a single 70m at RR. It's a little nerve-racking rapping a 40+m pitch with a 70m rope, but it has worked out without much down-climbing shenanigans. I haven't had to use it, but one thing that has made me feel better is being prepared to set up the rappel like this: climbing.com/skills/long-ra… Of course, there is a carabiner and a knot that can catch on stuff, but it's a contingency plan at least.

Levitation 29 can be rapped with a single 70 but extending is a very good idea for a couple of them iirc.

Bob Johnson wrote:Will, what routes were you looking at climbing? I've done some rope-stretching rappels with a single 70m at RR. It's a little nerve-racking rapping a 40+m pitch with a 70m rope, but it has worked out without much down-climbing shenanigans. I haven't had to use it, but one thing that has made me feel better is being prepared to set up the rappel like this: climbing.com/skills/long-ra… Of course, there is a carabiner and a knot that can catch on stuff, but it's a contingency plan at least.

Well, so far I've been eyeing the routes in the stickied threads on routes for noobs and ones that get a lot of sun.

Par example

Johnny Vegas/Solar Slab
Cookie Monster/Cat in the Hat
Crimson Chrysalis
Frogland
Jubilant Song (if we rent a car with enough clearance)
Olive Oil
Armatron (if I suddenly enjoy long hikes)

I haven't gone through Handren's book enough yet... there's so much. I'm obviously going to try to get on the classics as best I can. I plan on looking into everyyhing in the index of starred routes at the back of the book.

Maybe I should just commit to taking a single 70m since it's the simplest setup and just so I can narrow down the list of climbs I can do.

WillK wrote: Par example Johnny Vegas/Solar Slab Cookie Monster/Cat in the Hat Crimson Chrysalis Frogland Jubilant Song (if we rent a car with enough clearance) Olive Oil Armatron (if I suddenly enjoy long hikes) I haven't gone through Handren's book enough yet... there's so much. I'm obviously going to try to get on the classics as best I can. I plan on looking into everyyhing in the index of starred routes at the back of the book. Maybe I should just commit to taking a single 70m since it's the simplest setup and just so I can narrow down the list of climbs I can do.

Frogland and Olive Oil are walkoffs, and Armatron can be too. I used an 80m on Crimson and it was a great way to avoid doubles or downclimbing. If you only do JV and not Solar you can rap the gully with a 60m- 5 raps, very easy to spot, about 55m apart. And if you want a free home to stay and like dogs message me...I'm in need of a dog sitter over Tgiving while I climb in EPC!

Yeah, I think a single 70m is fine...especially if you already have one. There is a single rope descent for Solar Slab that is described in the Handren book. There's also some trip reports that you can do a search for. I came across one that had a bunch of pictures of what the rap anchors looked like as you descend into the Painted Bowl.

You can rappel Crimson Chrysalis with a 70m rope. Two of the rappels are REALLY close, but you don't have to do any down climbing. Unless you got all the rope management dialed with double ropes, I wouldn't want to bring two ropes up that route.

And you can rappel Cat in the Hat with a 70m too. The first rappel (rapping the 5th/6th pitch depending on your anchors), puts you on a pedestal above a large-ish ledge. You have to downclimb maybe 10 feet. I thought it was pretty secure and not too scary. Then rappelling the 1st pitch is fine provided that you rap towards climber's left (the ground slopes upward in that direction).

Leslie McG wrote: Frogland and Olive Oil are walkoffs, and Armatron can be too. I used an 80m on Crimson and it was a great way to avoid doubles or downclimbing. If you only do JV and not Solar you can rap the gully with a 60m- 5 raps, very easy to spot, about 55m apart. And if you want a free home to stay and like dogs message me...I'm in need of a dog sitter over Tgiving while I climb in EPC!

Super nice of you to offer, but my gf is allergic. Plus we don't have much experience with dogs.

Thanks to everyone for their input btw. All of this is quite helpful

add tunnel vision to the ticklist, it's awesome. Plus it's a nice easy walk off with only one move of 4th class downclimbing (optional rap here but it's not needed)

eli poss wrote:add tunnel vision to the ticklist, it's awesome. Plus it's a nice easy walk off with only one move of 4th class downclimbing (optional rap here but it's not needed)

People seem to have strong opinions for Tunnel Vision based on the route comments haha. I guess it'll depend on how cold it is. I'm also not so great at chimneys.

WillK wrote: People seem to have strong opinions for Tunnel Vision based on the route comments haha. I guess it'll depend on how cold it is. I'm also not so great at chimneys.

Tunnel Vision is a good route, but the crux pitch is a relatively unprotected chimney. I enjoyed it, but not as much as many other RR routes.

My first RR route was Frogland and I loved it. Each pitch is a little different. Olive Oil is another good one for a first time visitor. Both of these routes are pretty chill 5.6-5.7ish climbing for ~700 ft.

Armatron is also worth the hike. The first two pitches are the cruxes and are actually kinda forgettable, but after that it turns into ~400+ft of some of the most fun 5.6-5.7 climbing on really unique blocky rock features.

All of these routes top out on actual summits and have pretty straightforward walk-offs.

Frogland is the best shortish multipitch 5.8 trad route in the country.

Have I climbed them all? Nope. Don't need to because I've done Frogland!

(I think it's much more enjoyable climbing than Nutcracker for instance.)

The "blocky rock features" on Armatron are now known as "armatron featured rock" by locals.

I've almost always climbed with 60m doubles. Never had a problem.

For those of y'all using a single rope (60 or 70 m) and a static tage line how do y'all connect during rapell? Just double EDK?

WillK wrote: People seem to have strong opinions for Tunnel Vision based on the route comments haha. I guess it'll depend on how cold it is. I'm also not so great at chimneys.

I did it last year on thanksgiving break and didn't really have an issue with the cold. It was slightly colder in sections with shade but I wore a T-shirt and shorts until the walk off without getting all that chilly. I wouldn't worry about the chimneys too much, I had done one chimney climb prior to leading the tunnel pitch and didn't have an issue.

You may want to skip the off-width pitch, though, if you're worried about it. We did a face variation to the left of the OW on pitch 3 & 4 and these pitches were super fun. It's face climbing interspersed with some knobs and chicken heads. It's got a few sections where the bolts are a bit more spaced than your typical sport climb but you can also sling knobs in between bolts if you need.

Sounds like you guys might need this guide as well while you're at it:

DGraham wrote:For those of y'all using a single rope (60 or 70 m) and a static tage line how do y'all connect during rapell? Just double EDK?

Check out this thread

mountainproject.com/v/reeps…