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Accident at Friday's Folly Ledge (Boulder, CO) 12/13/14

Original Post
pfwein · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 35

I fell leading a pitch above Friday's Folly (3rd Flatiron outside of Boulder, CO) on 12/13/14. I may or may not have been on a 2nd pitch of that route.
I had attempted to hang on a cam, it pulled out of a chockstone or other loose rock, I fell and landed hard (the next piece down held), and the chockstone hit me.
My partner Pat got me to the ground, RMRG got me to an ambulance about 3-4 hours later, then to Boulder Community Health, where I am now. I go home tomorrow.
Aside from being knocked out and the usual cuts and bruises, I broke my back and severely damaged my upper left arm (torn biceps tendon, labrum, and rotator cuff). I'm recovering and in pretty good shape. Already had back surgery, and have an ortho appointment for the shoulder in early Jan.
Heartfelt thanks to everyone who helped in the rescue.

A longer account is here

My partner posted about the fixed rope on Friday's Folly Ledge…
Thanks for the well wishes on that thread and to Eddie for retrieving the rope.

Adam Kroz · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20

Pat told me what happened. So happy to hear that you are recovering so quickly! Let me know if I can do anything. I'll be sending you positive healing energy!

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

If i absolutely need to put gear behind a chockstone ill try to get passive pro first, nuts or tricams ... Same with flakes

The amount of outwards force a cam puts is insane .... There a few places where i take new climbers to demonstrate this in squamish (and this is on granite) ... You can literally move the rock just by bounce testing the cam at ground height or even pulling on it by hand

Its often better not to put any gear on flakes/chocktones/loose blocks unless there is absolutely nothing else... If you do warn your belayer and anyone else below you

The classic climb "exasperator" had a bench sizes loose block pull after 50 years out here recently ... Folks have been putting cams behind that sucker forever

Best wishes on a recovery

rob.calm · · Loveland, CO · Joined May 2002 · Points: 630

Thanks for the detailed write up. Emphasizes stuff we all know but don't always take seriously.

Best wishes for a good recovery.


pzman · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Merry Christmas bump. I hope Santa brings you a complete and speedy recovery.

Steve Murphy · · Loveland, CO · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 20

Hey Peter, hang tough during your road to recovery. I'm glad--as I'm sure you are! --you had such a solid partner to see you through the ordeal.

tenpins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 30

holy shit. Glad you are OK, get to healing

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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