In honor of rock season NEVER EVER EVER being over...best 5.8 lead in NY???


Original Post
Benjaminadk · · San Pedro, California · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

Between the Gunks and the ADK there are so many great routes at this grade...plus 5.8 is a grade at which a large chunk of the climbing community leads. I'm putting an emphasis on best LEAD, which makes certain climbs stand out a little bit more.

I'll list my top three in no particular order:

1. Modern Times 5.8+ Gunks
-obvious reasons, crazy roof and exposure for the grade, really intimidating...the only 5.8 i have ever cut feet on

2. Prelude to Overture 5.8 Upper Washbowl ADK
-super exposure on the last pitch, nice crack climbing on p1 and p2 first class views, big cliff, a very unlikely line, unique

3. The El Pitchoff Chimney Cliff ADK
-position and exposure on the traverse, great crack climbing on the last pitch, a beautiful natural line

  • *ill give honorable mention to Arachnid Traction at the Creature Walls in the ADK....only because it is the hardest 5.8 i have ever done....pumpy sandbag by Tom Rosecrans...none the less a great section of jamming at the crux...full value 8**

So lets hear your top three and the reasons why!
gblauer Blauer · · Wayne, PA · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 740

Son of Easy O. Well protected, great variety of climbing and fun from the start to the end. In one pitch of course!

Benjaminadk · · San Pedro, California · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

yes! Son of is a classic for sure!

Mike Hancock · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 20

Son of easy o done as one long pitch is one of my favorite pitches of climbing I've done at any grade.

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 735

One?
That is a problem!
In the southern region, south of the Gunks, The climb of that grade at Armonk. It Must have been given a name may be 'Ray' knows? Also at the Ardsley wall. - 'Passher By'.
Along the Hudson Poison Ivy Wall at West Point - Nose
The Central region, The Gunks no way to pick only one!!
1)) The First pitch of Erect Direction at the Trapps ....((As well as both Modern Times & S.O.E.O !!))
2)) Bonnie's Roof,
3)) Double Crack.....not included is all of the Sky Top climbs ...? The Near.Trapps or MillBrook...?
Pitch off Cliff - ?Pete's Fall if that is it's name And the great thing at beer walls, I do not know the names that are at up at the Spiders web, Washbowl Cliffs and Moss Cliff but for fun and location and length, the effort to get there is well rewarded.
Climbing season is not "all but over" by along shot, if it sunny the rock can be warm!

Benjaminadk · · San Pedro, California · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050
Michael Schneider wrote:One? That is a problem! In the southern region, south of the Gunks, The climb of that grade at Armonk. It Must have been given a name may be 'Ray' knows? Also at the Ardsley wall. - 'Passher By'. Along the Hudson Poison Ivy Wall at West Point - Nose The Central region, The
Cool. I've not familiar with any of the areas south of the gunks. makes me curious. agree it can be hard to pick the "best". im just looking for personal favorites and reasons why. there are a ton of 8s that are great at the nears. ive only done one climb at millbrook and it was a 7. pete's is the classic 7 right next to The El. Thing at the Beer Walls really narrows it down...you must mean the one next to the other thing....
Benjaminadk · · San Pedro, California · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

son of easy o is getting lots of love already!

Morgan Patterson · · CT · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 8,752

"In honor of rock season being all but over..."

Ah... NY'ers... :-)

Benjaminadk · · San Pedro, California · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

postclimbum depression

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

Springtime.

christopher adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

While I disagree about the end of climbing season, Son of Easy O in a single pitch is definitely my favorite 5.8 at the Gunks, and maybe anywhere.

Benjaminadk wrote:Between the Gunks and the ADK there are so many great routes at this grade...plus 5.8 is a grade at which a large chunk of the climbing community leads. I'm putting an emphasis on best LEAD, which makes certain climbs stand out a little bit more. I'll list my top three in no particular order: 1. Modern Times 5.8+ Gunks -obvious reasons, crazy roof and exposure for the grade, really intimidating...the only 5.8 i have ever cut feet on 2. Prelude to Overture 5.8 Upper Washbowl ADK -super exposure on the last pitch, nice crack climbing on p1 and p2 first class views, big cliff, a very unlikely line, unique 3. The El Pitchoff Chimney Cliff ADK -position and exposure on the traverse, great crack climbing on the last pitch, a beautiful natural line **ill give honorable mention to Arachnid Traction at the Creature Walls in the ADK....only because it is the hardest 5.8 i have ever done....pumpy sandbag by Tom Rosecrans...none the less a great section of jamming at the crux** So lets hear your top three and the reasons why!
SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 217

These sorts of discussions are always fun. Seems like you never see them any more... ah, when the internet was young...

Anyway in the Gunks 5.8 is one of the premier grades. It is hard to pick just a few favorites at the grade, let alone one clear winner.

Son of Easy O, Double Crack, Airy Aria, Pas De Deux, City Lights, Drunkard's Delight, P1 of Birdie Party, P1 of Erect Direction, P1 of Carbs and Caffeine, Bold-Ville, Modern Times, Bonnie's Roof (if you consider it a 5.8), Arrow, Annie Oh!, Three Doves, Alphonse, Birdland..... I'm sure there are others that are reasonable contenders but which aren't coming to the forefront of my mind.

But as great as these climbs are it's hard to pick a Gunks climb as the best 5.8 in New York when you can pick a longer outing like Gamesmanship at Poke-O. Even the Sting (also at Poke-O) at one pitch is so great it would have to be a contender.

I haven't done Diagonal (at Wallface) but I'm sure some people would vote for that one. The El (at Pitchoff Chimney Cliff) is very very good too.

OK I pick Birdland. That's my vote. Do it all the way to the top.

Pepe Climbs Rocks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

How 'bout a few of lesser known super classics in the Gunks that haven't been mentioned....

Absurdland, Ape Call (my pick for the best 5.8 roof in the Gunks), and Alphonse.

Benjaminadk · · San Pedro, California · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 1,050

I said rock season is all but over!!!! i live in the adk so our getting out any given day is basically a wrap....of course climbing is possible year round depending on weather and ones willingness to freeze....ive climbed every month of year in the gunks.

Son of Easy O is so good its worth climbing in January in the rain.

seth, i keep meaning to do the second pitch of birdland, i hear good things.

springtime is a nice slightly less popular climb....really looks cool from the base like a giant bear ripped his claws across the rock.

guys i want to hear a little bit to back up why its your favorite 5.8...

Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

just broke into leading 5.8 in the gunks this season. Really happy to see that my favorite climbs were much loved climbs!

Michael Schneider · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 735

Very Good SethG
(long walk to wall face I did it 5 times in the early '80s when i lived in the Daks)
I Blew off the post Rules too, 'cause I agree that picking a best,just One? No way.
Recommendations and second thoughts,
Oh wait you picked a land climb, fine choice!
All the way till you run out of rope, One long pitch is great.

SethG · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 217

I chose Birdland because the first pitch has incredibly good face climbing with a thoughtful crux, and the second pitch is completely different, with overhangs and jugs and another thoughtful crux move into a corner. 2 great pitches of 5.8.

Of course Absurdland and Ape Call are also great-- and Snooky's, I forgot Snooky's! One of the most popular climbs in the Gunks. The second pitch of that one is good too. Also (come to think of it) Raunchy, it goes on and on...

Pepe Climbs Rocks · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 0

Snooky's is most excellent as is drunkard's delight. It's hard to believe there are so many exceptional 5.8s . One could argue it's the best grade in the Gunks.

Bill Kirby · · Baltimore Maryland · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480
Benjaminadk wrote: guys i want to hear a little bit to back up why its your favorite 5.8...
I picked Springtime because of the ridiculous friction! That route is so much fun due to the type of rock and the fact no one's ever there. Oh, and the G rating!

I think Rockaholic and Gamesmanship deserves mentioning too.
Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

Rock season is never over.

Potrero Chico in January

Lisa Andrews · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 10

I know you said lead, and I happen to be a cheerful perennial follower, but I've climbed my share of 5.8 so I'm going to chime in and agree wholeheartedly on:

Son of Easy O
Snooky's
Bonnie's Roof (happy to call it an 8)

And I will add: Arrow, which IMO is the most stunning piece of rock in the Gunks regardless of grade, and completes this short list of climbs your second will love you for choosing.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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