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Would you climb this route?

Original Post
Skiholzer · · Hyde Park · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 35

I was recently denied a permit to bolt at the city of rock by park officials. Their main reason was that the route would not become popular and therefore there was no compelling reason to allow the new route since it would be used by only a few. The route is on the dome north of the clamshell, so it is about a 1/2 hour's technical hike from parking lot rock. It is about 150 to 200 ft long and would go at about 5.6 to 5.7 or so (I estimate), and follows the smooth face through the scoop and bulge (left of the grassy area). Perhaps they are right, but I'd like to get other climber's thoughts. To me it looks like great fun, but I enjoy friction and getting away from the congestion elsewhere.

Proposed route
From comments already received I can see there is some confusion. I updated the picture showing the proposed route line with a few Xs for bolts (not actual). You can only see about 1/2 of the route in the photo.
Route marked
Jon Zucco · · Denver, CO · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 245

how about just giving it a go on pro?

S.Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 30

What is your thought on the style and character of the route? From the pic we can only see the route from one angle, are there nice views from the route? I agree routes away from congested areas are a plus, and I'm also a sucker for friction climbing.

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 938

Looks like it has lots of gear placements.

Paul Irby · · moab, ut · Joined Jan 2010 · Points: 130

I would be surprised if this slab hasn't already been climbed.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Are there other routes and bolts on the slab already?

Skiholzer · · Hyde Park · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 35

The proposed route is the clean slab 30+ feet to the left of the large corner (Rock Pedophile). I looked the face over as close as I could from the top and bottom and couldn't see any fixed anchors or natural pro opportunities other than the grassy area right of the proposed route. I had planned on putting this up on lead. Again the question was would you go out there and climb it.

Rob Selter · · running springs Ca · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 140

Do it on gear, and call it a personal achievement.

Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

Looks good to me. Go for it. Don't fall.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
Rob Selter wrote:Do it on gear, and call it a personal achievement.
How do you lead a slab route on gear? There is no gear. The OP doesn't want to do the crack on the right, which looks protectable.

To the OP, if they said don't bolt it, then don't bolt it. You could try asking them again, but will probably get the same answer.

Edit: OP, it's going to be nigh impossible to get people to commit to climbing it before it's an established route.
jaypg · · New England · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 10

Instead of proposing to the officials bolting a slab you want to do cause it looks fun, ground your proposal in what it will bring to area. How many 200ft 5.6-5.7's does the area have. How would developing this route enhance the crag? Bassically, change your proposal from "me" to "them+community."

Note: I have no clue about the area. But a tablespoon of sugar goes a long way. Good luck.

Allen Sanderson · · Oootah · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,145

As some who was very involved with the initial management of the CoR and the climbing management plan denying a permit based on the perceived popularity of the route is not an acceptable reason. Cruel Shoes could have fallen into the same category. Yet it is perhaps one the more popular routes at that grade.

I would suggest that you write a letter to Brad and the Superintendent stating the denying a permit based on "potential popularity" is not acceptable. There needs to be a definitive impact such as being too close to other routes. What were the other reasons??

Andrew Carson · · Wilson, WY · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,525

I'd second what Allen has said above. I don't know the protocol for COR bolting but Brad is a reasonable guy and would lay out the ground rules and background. Perception of future impact/use/value doesn't seem much of a basis for denial.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 250

I would climb that route.

Spencer Weiler · · Salt Lake city · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 2,081

I completely agree with the assessment of the park that this route will not become popular and will be climbed by very few due to its potential grade and distance from main climbing. I also agree this isn't a great reason to deny route development. As someone who isn't good at friction and enjoys spending my time on more traditional crack routes or difficult sport routes when visiting the city, I personally would never climb this route.

Boissal · · Small Lake, UT · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 1,345

Isn't the clamshell home to a bunch of terrifying slab routes? A reasonably well protected moderate in the area would certainly hold some appeal!

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,449

Consider the potential route with regard to VERP and a mini NEPA.

Helps to soften the news a bit...!

Says someone who's been denied a few times...

marty funkhouser · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 30

I've spent extended climbing trips climbing slab all over the west due to shoulder issues and can't remember seeing hardly any stand-alone 5.6's or 5.7's.

I think a problem with these low grade slab climbs is that experienced slab climbers won't want to do them and beginner slab climbers will be too intimidated by the spacing of ground-up bolting.

I suppose some might suggest sport bolting these easy slabs but that would be incredibly lame and possibly dangerous IMO. Easy slabs are frequently TR'd here by rank beginners and it seems like one of the best ways to introduce folks to climbing.

Maybe solo it and call it good? Take folks here to TR these lines as an intro to the sport?

Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 14,449

I think the issues with regard to COR and easy face routes is...if its "easy" and well bolted, they will come. See Rain Dance. See Cruel Shoes. See Too Much Fun. Also, see the work the park has had to put into the staging area for those routes. So, that's VERP.

If its run out, especially for the grade, then, it becomes a safety issue for the park to deal with. See Delay of Game (I climbed it when it had one bolt and was called Dowdle Face or some such). See Red Rib. See Twist and Crawl. See Rollercoaster. Now its a route that creates controversy and maybe SAR issues.

If the park doesn't know you and the style you climb in and the manner in which you establish routes, then, its a tough row to hoe for them.

Its just easier to say no. Do it sans bolts maybe, then, report it as a new route that you're willing to "fix".

If its only 5.6...then Kim's already soloed it anyhow...ha ha! Brad too for that matter (in his work boots).

kevinhansen · · Albion Idaho · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 130

I think you may have something here.
Look at the massive popularity that Kevin Pogue routes have gained in the last decade. Theater of Shadows, Big Time, Too Much Fun, and Little Time all are abundantly bolted slab climbs rated 5.easy. They all have lines of people waiting to climb them. I think that if there were more 5.5 to 5.7 climbs, and they were abundantly bolted, and if they were spread out around the park, Brad and Wallice would see a decrease in some of the growing pains Elephant Rock and Bath Rock have had. What is the worst that could happen? Seriously the worst case scenario is unused holes in rock out in the middle of nowhere, and no body is around to see them.

On the side of the park,
If I recall it took big bucks (Like $2,500) for Dave Bingham to equip Built for Comfort, Muffin Top and Love Handles on the North West Side of the Breadloaves. They had to do an EPA assessment, Native American artifact assessment, and a ton of red tape. But now the routes are in and quite popular. I think they were fun. Below is a pic of the staging area I stole from MP.

S.Lee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 30

Wow I hope that isnt what it cost for those new bingham routes, those routes are a ton of fun and much needed.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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