2014 - 2015 Utah Region Ice


Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240

I have led it and consider it a true WI 5...I have not found near as many sustained and tall WI 5's in the lower 48 as I have in Canada....but I thought it was tall and steep enough...the photo above looks good...I have climbed it in considerably worse condition this time of year.

David Lane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

Hey thanks for the updates. While we're at it anyone been into Maple?

Travisstull · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 210

I climb or attempt to climb maple every Christmas, my folks live in Manti 30 minutes from there and we spend Christmas with them. This is the first year I did not bother to go look/try ice climbing there. Last Christmas there was very little ice in and conditions were more favorable,though still a bad early ice year. Maple is highly dependent on snow melt freeze cycle, not seeps freezing. When we got here 2 weeks ago they had green grass growing in the yard and temps in the 50s. I don't think one weeks snow and freezing temps will build significant ice there. We we usually drive 2 hours to Joe's or Provo where ice forms earlier, few years have decent ice at Maple over christmas break. Unless your close I'd give it another week or 2 before giving it a look but then I've never gone the first week of January. Sorry I'm on the road home tomorrow or I'd check it out.

Jared Wicks · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2013 · Points: 55

Dow,

Any word on the other S. Utah climbs besides Kanarraville? Would love to make a trip up soon.

Cheers,
Jared

Kyle Dempster · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 5

Save the GWI for the Super Bowl BBQ and go climb something else in LCC!

For anyone looking for a fun and slightly exciting ice/mixed line, not too mention alternative to the ice pickle, then go do this route before it warms up. After all, it could be another 10years before it's in again.

Schoolroom Area. Clip the 1st two bolts on Mantel Variation, then start trending up and right toward the wide crack and bushes above. Grovel, curse, clean snow off rock, grab a bush, sling a small tree, grab another bush, place a cam in a roof, be weary of the 1/2in ice as you go around the small roof, and finally throw a sling around another small bush and call it the anchor. 50m (2x.5, .75, 1, 3 and slings)

Pitch 2. Tap lightly and enjoy the cool ice trickle above the belay and just to the right of the Schoolroom roof. 25m (3-4 stubbies)

Have fun out there!

Schoolroom roof ice

Courtney Pace · · Sandy · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 105

Sat 1/3
Climbed the unnamed obvious route at the base of huntington canyon. Lower section was pretty unconsolidated and didnt take screws well, at least any confidence inspiring screws. Upper portion was great ice. Also climbed CCC in Joes. Lower pitch is still great, decided to TR the upper pitch. Can still be lead by the ambitious. Didn't check out Donorcicle. Looked like some people were messing around on Deadbolt.

DrApnea · · Wenatchee, WA · Joined May 2011 · Points: 255
Greg Gavin · · SLC, UT · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 673

Sick winter ascent of knobs to gumbyland Kyle! Is that the first ascent of that flow? Looks thin!

J.R. Rowley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 15

Climbed GW tonight (Monday 1/5). It's getting very slushy. Climbing was easy but screws were an exercise in futility. It looks like it will be gone by the end of the week.

Warbonnet · · Utah, India and Cambodia · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 630

Kyle,
The last time I saw this route in was about 1980. I thought it was great, esp. comparing it to its typical summer climb for newbies. Could be named "Night & Day" if done in the winter.

Ty Falk · · Park City, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 270

First pitch of Stairway was in decent shape this morning. Hopefully the warm temps this week during the day don't leave us high and dry again.
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chadnuesmeyer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 150
Shameless Shaemus wrote:Did you guys lead Donor? If so, what rating would you give it? (I'm in an Xtremely "Future of the Earth Depends upon it" debate about grades & grading ice climbs with someoneÂ…) Actually wondering if you guys lead the upper pitch of CCC as well (we were just behind you.)
Yes, led the second of ccc. Did not lead the Donor, I trailed a line and placed screws but, didn't lead it. I'm still working on getting my 'sea legs'back as the season starts.Per your question, I would give Donor a solid WI5.
Ty Falk · · Park City, UT · Joined Nov 2011 · Points: 270

Although not fat pitch 1 of the Fang was climbing suprisingly well this morning. Pitch two and three didn't look that great. Seams like with the inversion, temps in that part of the canyon have been cold enough to keep the ice in decent shape. It was in the mid 20s when I pulled in this am.

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Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 20

Climbed White Nightmare in Bridal Veil area yesterday. SUPER wet, plastic ice still plenty thick, but much thinner than last week. Placed 16 cm screws without ever bottoming out, but but gaps are developing behind the ice so screamers would be recommended.

Harry Richardson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 125

With some of the most unique scenery and terrain in the US, Utah contains an amazing array of ice climbing. Come learn about itÂ’s ice climbing history and check out imagery from two of the climbing worlds best photographers, Andrew Burr and Nathan Smith.

Copies of Beehive Ice: A Guide to Utah's Ice and Mixed Climbs will arrive just in time for the show and we will have many of the contributors to the book on hand to sign copies. Entry is a $5.00 donation to the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance.

January 15, 2015
7:00pm

Petzl America
2929 Decker Lake Dr.
West Valley City, UT 84119

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 460

Went to maple 1/14. It is mostly not in. Only Yellow rapture, Tied off Stubbies and Under Wraps were fully formed. All were super thin and detached. Everything in the box has fallen down and the left fork climbs too.
Plenty of snow available. Needs a proper melt freeze cycle to reform and grow.

shawn Kenney · · Draper,Utah · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 2,585

Anyone been up to Great White over the past few days? I'm assuming it's in bad shape but wanted to check and see if anyone knows for sure.

David Lane · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2014 · Points: 15

Thanks. How is the stuff in Santaquin holding up?

Things here in Ca, (Lee Vining) are not so good this year, and not much improvement. Was hoping to at least get out there for a long weekend. We barely even have snow and temps are looking bad, I live at 7000' and its T-Shirt weather and maybe shorts by Sunday.

Alec LaLonde · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2007 · Points: 460
shawn wrote:Anyone been up to Great White over the past few days? I'm assuming it's in bad shape but wanted to check and see if anyone knows for sure.
Yep, pretty much. We climbed through the bulge yesterday, which took decent stubbies. Each pitch had multiple holes and required delicate moves to avoid them. Was glad to be off it by 11am. I wouldn't be surprised if it fell down this weekend.
Brett Verhoef · · Northern Utah · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 380

I climbed Last Chance Falls in Logan Canyon today. It was wet but solid. It is certainly not as fat as it could be but it was still taking screws up to 22 cm. Not bad considering it was 48°F in Logan Canyon.

Last Chance Falls 1/18/15

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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