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Inexpensive bolt extractor


C. Williams · · the Climber Cave · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 1,254
Kent Krauza wrote:

I’ve wondered the same thing. I recently replaced what I think was a SS stud with mild steel nut and washer. I had to over torque and thus shear off the nut, and this photo shows the extent of the corrosion on the stud underneath. The threads were completely rusted out but the stud was otherwise solid looking. Does this mean the nut would have eventually stripped what is left of the threads and pulled right off on a lead fall? 


This is possible but not the most likely scenario for failure in plated wedge anchors. The more common problem (at least where I live) is that as the bolt rusts the cone at the end looses diameter. At some point the cone no longer properly engages the expansion clip and holding power is lost. In shear the bolt still acts as a snow picket but pull out strength is almost completely lost. I found this out last summer when I was able to funk out all of the bolts on a route with no spinning. These bolts were about 20 years old and placed in good granite.


The hardest bolt to remove was the button head!
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523

Went out today to replace some more bolts and, as always, ran into a new problem. I was trying to pull the sleeves left inside the hole from 2 five piece bolts. After tapping the sleeve, I tried to funkness it out but it wouldn't come out. So then I tried to screw a draw stud into the threads and onto the hurley jr. Problem is, the threads on the sleeve strip before I can get it out with the hurley jr.

I'm guessing this is because the metal is too rusted to work with but I'm not sure. Have any of y'all encountered this before, and if so how did you deal with it?

Today I ended up just trying to drill through the sleeve with an old worn bit and the sleeve basically slid onto the drill bit so I was able to get it out that way. I was not so lucky on the other hole and ended up just drilling through some of the metal with the old bit until rock dust started to come out of the hole, and then switched to a 1/2" bit and drilled out the hole. Is there a better way?

Drew Nevius · · Oklahoma · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 1,884
eli poss wrote: Went out today to replace some more bolts and, as always, ran into a new problem. I was trying to pull the sleeves left inside the hole from 2 five piece bolts. After tapping the sleeve, I tried to funkness it out but it wouldn't come out. So then I tried to screw a draw stud into the threads and onto the hurley jr. Problem is, the threads on the sleeve strip before I can get it out with the hurley jr.

I'm guessing this is because the metal is too rusted to work with but I'm not sure. Have any of y'all encountered this before, and if so how did you deal with it?

Today I ended up just trying to drill through the sleeve with an old worn bit and the sleeve basically slid onto the drill bit so I was able to get it out that way. I was not so lucky on the other hole and ended up just drilling through some of the metal with the old bit until rock dust started to come out of the hole, and then switched to a 1/2" bit and drilled out the hole. Is there a better way?

Both Gary Ballard and Greg Kuchyt say using a 9mm tap and draw stud can make a big difference with keeping the the sleeve intact during removal. (See Greg’s post about it here: VTBoltReplace instagram)


I’ve had the same issue you’re reporting and I think it might be worth trying a custom 9mm (for the sleeve) to 3/8” (for the Hurley) draw stud. I might reach out to one or both of them to see if they have any extra 9mm draw studs on hand. If you’re interested in trying that I can let you know what I hear back from them
eli poss · · Durango, Co · Joined May 2014 · Points: 523
Drew Nevius wrote:

Both Gary Ballard and Greg Kuchyt say using a 9mm tap and draw stud can make a big difference with keeping the the sleeve intact during removal. (See Greg’s post about it here: VTBoltReplace instagram)


I’ve had the same issue you’re reporting and I think it might be worth trying a custom 9mm (for the sleeve) to 3/8” (for the Hurley) draw stud. I might reach out to one or both of them to see if they have any extra 9mm draw studs on hand. If you’re interested in trying that I can let you know what I hear back from them

Yes, I'm interested. I guess I would have to get a 9mm die and use that on half of a draw stud to make a custom one. Sounds like a PITA but if it's the best solution then so be it.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,321

The 9mm tap can work. I haven't recommended that route since the 9mm tap and die are both uncommon and not easy to source. When the sleeve is that rusty, I just blast through it with the 1/2" rock bit while drilling out the hole. The thing to be careful with is using light pressure on the drill and fishing out bits of metal with the magnet often so that you don't bind up the tip of the bit and break off the carbide.
The resulting hole will not be as perfect - using a longer bolt than the original would put the business end of the new bolt into better territory. Using a glue-in in that instance would be even better. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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