I made many flash with Sven Lavransen


Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Hello, many climbing friend!

I write to tell to you that I return from Indian Creek Colorado, with many enjoyable flash! I love this area of climbing rocks, as the Utah part of Boulder is beautiful desert, and best place in Colorado for crack!. Someone once tell to me I find crack near Colfax Ave., but I go there and see no climbing rocks, so they must perhaps only be talking about this buildering that the peoples do? Would anyone share with me where there is good buildering route there?

I go on this climbing trip after my girlfriend announce she breaks up with me. This news hit me like norwegian icicle to the heart, and I very, very sad. But I think the pain maybe provide me much inspiration for the flashings.

I first climb air swedin on flash. My fingers fit nicely in this crack and I find it not so difficult, even with the hard foot smearings and enjoyable runout at crux. On this trip I also make difficult flash of Ruby's Cafe. On roof section I have trouble finding handhold at first, and almost fall on laybacking near anchors, but I feel it would very much be so very enjoyable to make this flash, and I hang on.

On Six Star Crack flash attempt, I fall on pitch 2 off fingers sector and can not hold on, but I make eventual redpoint after several tries to add to 4-plan pyramid. I also make flash of belly full of bad berries, which I feel is not so hard because I turn upside down to hang from feet for easy rest, and then climb with refreshed forearms. I am also able to flash Chris Schulte boulder problem I see on video online that look like a head of horse. I find compression moves on sides of horse head to be very nice, even with much difficulty for the flash.

Perhaps when I am no longer feeling such sadness about my girlfriend, I will tell to you more about how I work to develop the 4-plan, and perhaps one day start a training book and website. I think I will call it "4-plan for difficult but enjoyable flash" and dedicate this to my friend Sven Lavransen. Please let me know if any climbing friend have good suggestion for better name.

caughtinside · · Oakland CA · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 1,470

Is it true that after completing the 4 plan, Sven retired from climbing, became a monk and now lives in Switzerland?

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175
caughtinside wrote:Is it true that after completing the 4 plan, Sven retired from climbing, became a monk and now lives in Switzerland?
Mr. Inside,

I believe 4-plan to be a lifelong pursuit with goal you never truly achieve, although you will raise your level of consciousness and become great climber with many excellent hard flash in this 4-plan process!
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Is it true that if you only complete 3 out of the 4 that you can have your hand chopped off and your father wears a dark hockey mask with a cape and threatens you with the dark side of the force and your friends get tortured in a cloud city and then your best friend gets frozen in metal tomb that levitates but, even though that's actually pretty cool, you have to go to a desert planet and kill a slug just to unfreeze your buddy; only to get threatened later on by the dark side, again from your black hockey masked father, and be electrocuted repeatedly by his boss, but you get saved and then have a dance off party with a pig roast and you find out that hottie on the desert chained to the slug is really your sister and you can't touch her?

All because you left your swamp training module before that 4th was finished, is that true???

amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20

Does the 4-plan help with 4-play?

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Hello many climbing friend!

I write to tell to you about new development for training program. I do no believe people want to hear more of excellent hard flashings. I will be launching book and website based around 4-plan, with plan for excellent launchings in Spring.

I also develop 2-plan, 8-plan, and 16-plan, and possible 32-plan, to target a range of pure powers compare to endurance, with very much utilizing of the macroperiodization and specificity.

I still need title for book and website, and hopeful reality television show, if any climbing friend have suggestion. I very much like to use the words "excellent flash" or "the climbing rocks" or "Sven Lavransen" in title.

One addition to training program for exercise drill will be called yerkovs, in honor of my climbing friend Yeri Kovros. This part of the plan involve going to climbing gym where they have plastic climbing rocks, grabbing a hold just below waist level, and squeezing very tight - as tight as possible - and then jerking your arm back and forth as if trying to move the hold, all the while do not let go of the hold or stop squeezing it. I believe this develop a range of dynamic strengths and powers for better application on the climbing rocks.

Thank you to all my climbing friend who support this new part in my life

ze dirtbag · · Tahoe · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 50
amarius · · Nowhere, OK · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 20
Aleks Zebastian wrote:This part of the plan involve going to climbing gym where they have plastic climbing rocks, grabbing a hold just below waist level, and squeezing very tight - as tight as possible - and then jerking your arm back and forth as if trying to move the hold, all the while do not let go of the hold or stop squeezing it
This sounds like an awesome drill to develop technique. My one concern, though, is that a person is likely to go blind and develop ligament issues if they spend too much time working on this skill
Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Excellent climbing friend,

I perform so many yerkovs in weeks passing that I no able to type on computer keyboard for some time. I think perhaps this excellent way not to make flash, but to make unenjoyable elbow tendonitis.

Aleks Zebastian · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 175

Climbing friend,

After girlfriend leaves me months passing, I hook up casual with new girl, saying excellently before the havings of the sex that I no look for anything serious or relationship. She tell to me she also not looking for anything. However then she make series of comments about really liking, future, text to me things like, "I miss you" and "I just want to hold you" within less than one week of meeting! Now I feel the bad feeling and must tell to her it would not be going to happen, even though I was upfront about this all.

What think you would Sven Lavransen do (WWSD?) to handle situation like he handle excellent flash?

Brian · · North Kingstown, RI · Joined Sep 2001 · Points: 650

I think the doubters are just jealous of his accomplishments. I climbed with Sven back in the 90s. Here is a photo of him climbing in RMNP.

Sven Lavransen

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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