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Shoe thoughts?


Original Post
Alex M. Smith · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 95

Hey guys!

I've been wearing a pair of scarpa vapor v's for the past 3 years, and have really enjoyed their fit. I mostly do single pitch sport with some bouldering, but am hoping to get into some longer stuff (and trad) this summer.

Basically I'm looking into checking out a new pair of shoes and looking for some help on your end. I've tried on and liked the fit of the Miuras and Testarossas, and heard good things about the Scarpa Magos as well. Anyone have any pros or cons for these? Or any other helpful suggestions?

Thanks!
Alex

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Everyone around my are wears TC pros. Seen people climb 13a slab in them. They are a modified katana lace if you don't want a high top.

Scot Hastings · · Las Vegas · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 35

Yeah, I sadly can't fit the TC Pros (feet are too big), but I've gotten great mileage out of my Katana laces. I'm currently on my 5th or 6th resole. I started out with an aggressive fit, but they have since stretched to where I can wear them for multipitch and even walk in them a bit. They seem to work great for everything, from cracks to small edges to the occasional hook. Great shoes.

ChefMattThaner · · Lakewood, co · Joined May 2013 · Points: 246

I have and love both the TC pros and the lace up katanas(way better than the Velcro, much better last) My Katanas have no quite stretched out as much as wfscots' but they have flattened out a bit after a little over a years use. Great for everything, not my favorite for cracks since mine are tight enough that my toes are turned down quite a bit and the knuckle sof my toes get raped in cracks. Even use these for bouldering, although solutions would be better here.

The TC pros are great all around shoes as well with the awesome added benefit of the high tops that make crack climbing so much better. My only gripe when climbing cracks with them is the toe box is soooo stiff your toes get stuck a lot and require a little extra effort to extract. As opposed to a moccasin type show that is so much softer. I would also recommend getting them a tad smaller than is really comfortable at the start because they will stretch out a lot and can become floppy on tiny edging after breaking in fully if you get them too big to start out. The TC's are probably one of the better slab shoes out there right now due to their excellent stiffness.

David Graham · · Dallas · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 931

anyone do any crack climbing in the new anasazi pinks? if so how'd they do and how'd you size them?

Paul Wilhelmsen · · sandy, ut · Joined Aug 2012 · Points: 231

I think it depends of course on what type of climbing you expect to do the most of. If your going continue to do mostly harder single pitch sport with a little trad and multipitch stuff thrown in then I really couldn't say which of the three you listed is best, but for long trad lines I swear by miuras. They are a pretty awesome all-around shoe.
I sized mine a little small (but not wicked tight) for edging and moderate slab, and they have worked great, since I've had them so long (about to get my second resole), they have stretched a little and while they're not my favorite crack shoe (that'd be TC pros), if I'm doing crack .10s or under and not too many pitches of it, I can tolerate that too. Making em my goto shoe for most days.

If your looking for a thrifty shoe to try, I'd definitely recommend evolve defy vcs's. they're super comfy, easy to get on and off and you won't break the bank if it turns out you don't like em. They are admittedly not the best crack shoe, the metal clasp for the Velcro is uncomfortable in cracks and can wear through the Velcro if your not careful. But I made mine last 2 seasons o and the trade off of performance for comfort was worth it. I have done a couple 10+ pitch climbs in them and while everyone else had to strip off there shoes at each belay, I could leave my defys on with no problem.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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