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Unkown Bolts


Original Post
Brandon Berg · · Brevard, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15
Sketchy Bolts?

shuts?

Are these bolts that look common? I'm new to bolts and was worried about these. It's there any more information I can provide to help ID these?
Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 13,332

Somebody's mixing metals again!
Brandon.....checkout the American Safe Climbing Association website or Fixe Hardware for more information on mixing metals and galvanic corrosion. If you want to see some nice "ugly" corroded bolt photos check out Pt. Dume in CA at Los Angeles Basin on Mountain Project.

nbrown · · western NC · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 5,602

Those definitely aren't the best bolts, but they're probably a lot better than you think too.

The top one looks like a 13 mm self-drive -- much better than the 8 mm versions. Those suckers are peppered all over the SE, especially on the granite domes where they were the easiest bolts to place by hand. However, most of them on popular lines have already been replaced.

The bottom bolts are probably wedge bolts. You can never know for sure, but these don't look all that corroded -- all things considered. I've replaced a lot of these and they are usually still surprisingly good.

Yes those are cold-shuts. Very popular in the 90's before those fancy ring hanger thingies were so readily available. Another trend back then was to put washers behind hangers/against the rock...

Brandon Berg · · Brevard, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

These are the ones I ended up using. They looked to be the newest and in best shape. These pictures were taken at Sandrock, AL.

Good bolts
Brad "Stonyman" Killough · · Alabama · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 5,785

Where was your first pics taken?

Brandon Berg · · Brevard, NC · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 15

All were taken at Sandrock, AL. They were all right next to each other.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
nbrown wrote:Those definitely aren't the best bolts, but they're probably a lot better than you think too. The top one looks like a 13 mm self-drive -- much better than the 8 mm versions. Those suckers are peppered all over the SE, especially on the granite domes where they were the easiest bolts to place by hand. However, most of them on popular lines have already been replaced. The bottom bolts are probably wedge bolts. You can never know for sure, but these don't look all that corroded -- all things considered. I've replaced a lot of these and they are usually still surprisingly good. Yes those are cold-shuts. Very popular in the 90's before those fancy ring hanger thingies were so readily available. Another trend back then was to put washers behind hangers/against the rock...
Yup, the old self drive death bolts. they came in all sorts of sizes 8mm,,10mm and 12/13mm about an in or so in the rock
The shuts look like the "ukraine" shuts..even worse than you think
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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