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The 2014-2015 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Jeremy Joseph · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined May 2011 · Points: 435
Jikimika Dinglehoffer Merritt wrote:Anyone know if Ames or Bridalveil are still in?
Climbed ames on march 18th. To wet for a party to go up it. Whole climb was a waterfall basically.
Ryan Marsters · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 916
Ryan Marsters wrote:Has anybody laid eyes on the avy slopes above Flour Power (Otis) recently?
No ice. Thin snow at the bottom. Avy conditions wee bit sketchy - we followed a left branch couly and snow knife edge up left to stay out of the upper bowl. Skiers may like all but the bottom at the moment

JonW · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 0

Climbed Martha today and conditions were great. Lots of ice and the snow was perfect.

Eric Klammer · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,075
JonW wrote:Climbed Martha today and conditions were great. Lots of ice and the snow was perfect.
Oh yeah! Not a ton of ice but enough for some good sticks at some of the steps. Snow was nice and firm...

Dreamweaver and The Flying Dutchman on the other hand... Unsurprisingly the snow isn't as consolidated and it's a bit of a slog, however there are steps in there now. No ice in Dreamweaver, good ice on the step in TFD.
Asa Darnell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20

Anyone been up dragon tail recently? Good snow for going uphill?

Rocky_Mtn_High · · Arvada, CO · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 230
Asa Darnell wrote:Anyone been up dragon tail recently? Good snow for going uphill?
Yes (as of last weekend).
GLD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 83

any Vail updates?

The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460
GLD wrote:any Vail updates?

Are you joking?
Chris Snobeck · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 95

The Designator is down already. Surprisingly, the Fang was still standing as of Saturday; though leaning downhill (displaced at the upper fracture point).


Eric Coomer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 5

Did alexander's on monday- linked 2 pitches to top of chockstone pitch.

P1 (1/2)- very thin- sporty- crux was maybe a couple inches wide ice in corner

P2 (3/4)- some unconsolidated snow- big snow mushroom under chockstone, no ice leading to belay above chockstone.

It might fill in with warmer temps- it was ballz cold on Monday and very windy. Approach was good up until above chasm lake and then wallow-fest.


Eric Klammer · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,075

Climbed the Dog House this past Sunday and it was in pretty great conditions. Good snow in the gullys, nice warm rock on the steeper sections, and some sweet ice in the P3 gully! As it was nice and sunny we were able to climb barehanded for the majority but this came at the expense of softer snow and ice later on so plan accordingly.

All in all a great route with a fun variety of cruxes. There is a new anchor at the notch behind the Foil now so rapping E to the descent gully is pretty easy.

The final pitch to the notch.

The start of P3. We climbed this short wall then veered left into the gully for so cool ice!

Leaving the top of P2. Above the steep chock stone chimney and out of the cave.

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425

In case anyone is interested.... today 4/11


Asa Darnell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20

Martha in good condition as of yesterday (4/11/2015). Hard snow, plenty of ice in constrictions. We didn't rope up until the 4th "pitch"

First Constriction

First constriction.

Saw a group on flying dutchman:
TFD, 4/12.

And tons of tracks up the Loft. Hike to Chasm is a mix of dirt and hard snow.

Jikimika Dinglehoffer · · Lander, Wy · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 685

Vail Update: (Saturday, 4-11-15)
since so many of you seem keen on doing routes out of season and out of condition, I figured I would pass on the word. The fang still stands. The designator somehow fell down first. Never been there in April before so I wouldn't know if this is abnormal.

Jack Rodat on Godzilla.

King Cobra and a slushy Fang.
My brother, Nick, got to do one of his first mixed pitches.

Da Fang.

I feared for the life of my dearest belayer, Jack Rodat, quivering at the base of king cobra, grigri in hand. The fang is a multi-ton tower of slush with a deafening waterfall in the middle. It seems as if it fractured, bent over a few feet, and then froze and re-healed all wonky. Mmmmmmhhhhhmmm. I was glad to have a bolt in my face as I kicked into it. Thankfully the day was uneventful, and the thing stayed together for the afternoon. It has maybe a few days left(?? hours?). I wanted to kick it down, but for Jack's sake I carefully topped out and untied. (stemming over an open streambed at the end)

It's spring, and I hope you all can find it within yourselves to call it quits (at least for waterfall ice), as I now must... -JD

Thanks to all the great people I've met in the Ampitheater this year. We have a wonderful community of climbers, all of whom are a bit off in all sorts of ways.

Sam Sala · · Denver · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 40
Jikimika Dinglehoffer Merritt wrote:It has maybe a few days left(?? hours?).
We were up yesterday and the Fang was still standing...looked to be "healed enough", that we didn't give it a TON of thought except when we were directly underneath it in the gully on our hike in/out. Looks like it's completely hollow and displaced west and north about a foot. No clue how it's still up, yet the Dez is a pile of rubble. Tentacle actually looked gorgeous right up the center and Cupcake finish looked "decent"...everything else was pretty bleached white and small chunks were coming off throughout the day. I'm keeping fingers crossed for some more warm days and staying out of the amphitheater for a couple weeks to let Spring finish the job.
Jackie and The Fang 04/13/15.
Jonathan Dunder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 0

How much longer do you guys think Dragon's Tail will be climbable this season? Would it be do-able in mid-May?

Scott McMahon · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,425
Jonathan Dunder wrote:How much longer do you guys think Dragon's Tail will be climbable this season? Would it be do-able in mid-May?
ummm maybe? Maybe not? Scroll up for my picture of last saturday.

No way to tell though. This new front based on the models could drop anywhere from 1 - 50" according to Joel G. at opensnow. Sure tongue in cheek, but that's a potential range of what the models (American & EU) are predicting.

It could be totally melted out, or after a spring storm or two be full and ready to go.

This year may be pushing it mid-may for PRIME conditions, but I'm sure it will still be climbable. There will most likely be a mixed step in the middle break though.
jmeizis · · Colorado Springs, CO · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 225

Just got back from Lake City. Climbed something on the N. Face of Half Peak. Not sure if it's been climbed to the summit before. Imagine it has. The Sherman Route looked like it's holding on but the crux was looking thin.

Looking at Sherman.

There are a couple other N. Facing lines that are still hanging on. Snow is looking good. Kicked a lot of good steps until we got near the rock. Then it of course turned to sugary shit.

Looks like it's going to get cold down there in the next few days so might be the last chance to get on some of this.

If anyone knows the name or info of the stuff we climbed I'd love to hear about it. It's the next most obvious ice route a little less than an hour beyond the parking area.
First couple pitches of unknown WI3 route.

Asa Darnell · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 20

Hidden Falls is still good to go. Actually more ice than I've ever seen there with the exception of the very top where there's a small hole with some water running down behind the flow.

The far right steep flow (50ft right of main) is no longer touching however.

Hidden Falls, 4/15.

Sam Sala · · Denver · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 40

Hidden is still standing tall as of 4/19. Not much need for swinging as it's pretty hacked out and featured. One of the bolts to the left side could still use tightening (forgot to bring wrench this trip)

Big thanks to the guy (recognize you, but I've never caught your name) who let me borrow the rack for a go at the right side mixed line.


Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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