PAS Recommendation
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I've been doing some research on personal anchors and I'd like some advice. From my research it seems nylon is preferred over dyneema because of it's elasticity. However I do understand it is more important not dynamically load a PAS than it's rating |
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The Sterling is the cheapest and may be the strongest at doing what personal tethers are not supposed to do but may be called upon to do even though everyone says they shouldn't be. So why exactly should you pay more for less? |
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One of my first purchases as a n00b. I find it very convenient and when I forgo (long approaches sometimes) the PAS, sometimes I miss it. Went something like: desperataley reaching around on your harness, hanging from a tight-hands jam, before realizing you didn't get your draws from Ben before heading up, so you grab a cam and clip the chains to keep your clean send. Don't worry, the cam was removed before lowering. (and people were going to TR, so I didn't just clip two biners and lower - geez you really have to try to pre-defend the coming onslaught of MP quarterbacks) I went with the Chain Reactor b/c of the 100% nylon - should hold up longer and there's that factor 2 rating (that should never be tested in real life) too. |
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the short answer is, it doesn't really matter. As a personal anchor system, if it is holding more than 400 lbs, then you are doing something very wrong. |
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120 cm nylon sling with 2 overhand knots |
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I would go for the strongest one. You really need that extra 2kN. Think of how much you are going to hate yourself if that 22kN sling breaks when all you needed to do to save your ass was buy the 24kN one. In fact, the best option is just to go full tank mode: That said, just get the cheapest one. No one has failed to send because they bought the wrong PAS. The nylon one will be nicer if you fall directly on it, the Dyneema one wont be so nice. |
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Jesus is my PAS |
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I'd worry more about its length. |
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bearbreeder wrote:120 cm nylon sling with 2 overhand knotsThis is what I use for my brother and sister when they climb multi with me. Can be had for ~$5 during sales. |
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Seth Kane wrote:rope on multipitch, double length sling with knots or draws clipped together for cleaning sport and rappelingExactly |
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20kn...uh, very well stated and sound rationale. |
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I got rid of my PAS and switched over to a purcel prusik |
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You should get a Toyota Prius, 2011 model. Or maybe a Specialized Stump Jumper would work too. |
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Michael Carbary wrote:Any input would be greatly appreciatedIMO they are a stupid and pointless waste of money. If you absolutely need a lanyard and want a tidy solution buy a Beal Dynaconnexion bealplanet.com/sport/anglai… Otherwise, in any belaying situation I have ever come across you can just use the climbing rope. |
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The Ex-Engineer wrote: IMO they are a stupid and pointless waste of money. If you absolutely need a lanyard and want a tidy solution buy a Beal Dynaconnexion bealplanet.com/sport/anglai… Otherwise, in any belaying situation I have ever come across you can just use the climbing rope.Agreed. The only time I find them useful is when doing multi-pitch rappels, but then I just use a runner and girth hitch it to my belay loop. |
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I use a cordalette for some anchors and Matt N wrote:One of my first purchases as a n00b. |
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Craig Childre wrote:You should get a Toyota Prius, 2011 model.the I, II, III or VI model? I was thinking the III, but I kind of want the leather seats. Nothing says baller like leather in the most-expensive mass-produced economy car in America. Should probably put some spinners on there too. youtube.com/watch?v=1T-fwXp… Her only mistake was not putting lambo doors on there too. |