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PAS Recommendation

Original Post
Michael Carbary · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2014 · Points: 6

I've been doing some research on personal anchors and I'd like some advice. From my research it seems nylon is preferred over dyneema because of it's elasticity. However I do understand it is more important not dynamically load a PAS than it's rating

Here's what I'm looking at:

Metolius PAS 22 - Rated for 22kN fall, from what I've read its a mix of 73% nylon/27% dyneema

Misty Mountain Anchor - USA Made small company, rated for 12.5kN, read somewhere it is 100% nylon but the website gives little detail on it

Sterling Chain Reactor - Rated for up to 3 factor 2 drops, made of nylon (unsure if its 100%)

Any input would be greatly appreciated

rgold · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 526

The Sterling is the cheapest and may be the strongest at doing what personal tethers are not supposed to do but may be called upon to do even though everyone says they shouldn't be. So why exactly should you pay more for less?

Some anticipatory shots for the inevitable wave of naysayers.

1. People who say just use a sling may not be thinking about all the uses for tethers in multipitch trad climbing and may just be considering rappelling and/or single-pitch climbs.

2. Tethers ought not to be the shock-absorbing component of any belay anchor.

3. Purcell prussiks are fine for rescue positioning but are an inferior solution for the full range of tether applications.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415

One of my first purchases as a n00b. I find it very convenient and when I forgo (long approaches sometimes) the PAS, sometimes I miss it.

Also damn handy when you forget to bring anchor draws up a pitch in IC:



Went something like: desperataley reaching around on your harness, hanging from a tight-hands jam, before realizing you didn't get your draws from Ben before heading up, so you grab a cam and clip the chains to keep your clean send.
Don't worry, the cam was removed before lowering. (and people were going to TR, so I didn't just clip two biners and lower - geez you really have to try to pre-defend the coming onslaught of MP quarterbacks)

I went with the Chain Reactor b/c of the 100% nylon - should hold up longer and there's that factor 2 rating (that should never be tested in real life) too.
matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

the short answer is, it doesn't really matter. As a personal anchor system, if it is holding more than 400 lbs, then you are doing something very wrong.

I don't use a pas but if i was going to get one, i would consider using something like this:
animatedknots.com/purcell/i…
its cheap effective and the knots will reduce the force if you decide you want to take a wipper on it.

oh, i second using the rope and slings.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

120 cm nylon sling with 2 overhand knots

does everything a PAS will do ... for 1/3 or less the price

im sure some folks will whine about how the PAS or other such dedicated anchoring system has stronger loops ... well you tie knots in your anchors all the time regardless and 60% of 22 KN is more than enough for any practical applications you may use a tether for

as a bonus you can undo the knots in an emergency and use it with a kleimheist/hedden to ascend the rope, etc ... something which may not be the easiest with a PAS-style sling on thin ropes

mammut 8mm phoenix half rope with PAS "friction" knot

you can see my partner on the left with the "cheap womans PAS" (nylon sling) ... it works just fine and is adjustable enough ... the other two guys are just photo BOMBAHS we met on the raps

caculus rappels, squamish chief

just be sure to inspect for wear especially around the knots ever now and then ... you should be inspecting your tether regardless of whether you use a sling, PAS or purcell

;)

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I would go for the strongest one. You really need that extra 2kN. Think of how much you are going to hate yourself if that 22kN sling breaks when all you needed to do to save your ass was buy the 24kN one. In fact, the best option is just to go full tank mode:



That said, just get the cheapest one. No one has failed to send because they bought the wrong PAS. The nylon one will be nicer if you fall directly on it, the Dyneema one wont be so nice.
Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

Jesus is my PAS

David Coley · · UK · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 70

I'd worry more about its length.

Short is good if you will always be close to the anchor; go long if you plan on doing fancy stuff like hanging a reverso off it.

Matt N · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 415
bearbreeder wrote:120 cm nylon sling with 2 overhand knots
This is what I use for my brother and sister when they climb multi with me. Can be had for ~$5 during sales.
john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640
Seth Kane wrote:rope on multipitch, double length sling with knots or draws clipped together for cleaning sport and rappeling
Exactly
Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 18,818

20kn...uh, very well stated and sound rationale.

Jan Tarculas · · Riverside, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 917

I got rid of my PAS and switched over to a purcel prusik

mountainproject.com/v/tying…

I used about 10 ft of cord for mind

Craig Childre · · Lubbock, TX · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 4,860

You should get a Toyota Prius, 2011 model. Or maybe a Specialized Stump Jumper would work too.

The Ex-Engineer · · UK · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 20
Michael Carbary wrote:Any input would be greatly appreciated
IMO they are a stupid and pointless waste of money.

If you absolutely need a lanyard and want a tidy solution buy a Beal Dynaconnexion bealplanet.com/sport/anglai…

Otherwise, in any belaying situation I have ever come across you can just use the climbing rope.
Kai Larson · · Sandy, UT · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 436
The Ex-Engineer wrote: IMO they are a stupid and pointless waste of money. If you absolutely need a lanyard and want a tidy solution buy a Beal Dynaconnexion bealplanet.com/sport/anglai… Otherwise, in any belaying situation I have ever come across you can just use the climbing rope.
Agreed.

The only time I find them useful is when doing multi-pitch rappels, but then I just use a runner and girth hitch it to my belay loop.
Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

I use a cordalette for some anchors and
an equalette for other and
sometimes some slings and
a pas for tether and
when rappelling I thought about the dozen slings I already have but instead
use a pas but sometimes I use a
Purcell prussik but I ascend with a
Klemhiest unless the rope is wet, then I use the
gri gri, but I'm gonna switch to the cinch cause it sounds
easy to use, so it is best to bring them all

or think about this

Matt N wrote:One of my first purchases as a n00b.
rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210
Dynaconnextion

Two anchor points and dynamic
20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346
Craig Childre wrote:You should get a Toyota Prius, 2011 model.
the I, II, III or VI model? I was thinking the III, but I kind of want the leather seats. Nothing says baller like leather in the most-expensive mass-produced economy car in America. Should probably put some spinners on there too.

youtube.com/watch?v=1T-fwXp…

Her only mistake was not putting lambo doors on there too.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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