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Mountaineering (Induction into)

Original Post
Troy Russell · · Fenton, MI · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 245

Hello,
I'm from the great state of Michigan, quite central to anything remotely interesting concerning rock or ice climbing, but lacking much else in these areas.

I'm somewhat experienced in rock climbing as well as ice climbing, and would like to know of what are some good practices to get into to begin alpine/mountaineering.

Relating to the topic, I was initially thinking of taking a trip to Mt. Washington for a introduction into mountaineering, and was wondering if this would be a good place to start.

So, my posting is sort of a two-part:
1) What are some good practices/training for mountaineering?
2) Where might be a good place to begin the adventure of mountaineering?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

The best things you can do are read about it: "Mountaineering, Freedom of the Hills" and get an experienced mentor to learn from. There are many good books out there, so start reading some how-to books about mountaineering.

Even better yet, is to hire a guide for a few days. A privately-guided trip is best. Guides are costly, but you will get good instruction.

One thing you can do as far as training is concerned, is to do a lot of hiking with a backpack on. Load it up with some weight, even if it's only twenty pounds or so. Learn some orienteering skills, with a map and compass, in addition to a GPS. Understand how GPS readings translate to a map and vice versa.

Some overnight backpacking trips, even if just on a mellow trail, will help you dial in your equipment and understand your abilities.

Hope this helps.

Max Forbes · · Colorado · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 108

Spend as much time outside as possible. Hire a guide too, that way you actually can get in to some serious climbing and decide if you really like it. I read freedom of the hills cover to cover and it helped me a ton. Rock climb as much as you can. Master the basics and move forward from there.

Kevin Zagorda · · Glen Haven, Co · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 600

If you are going to Mt Washington for an introduction to mountaineering it is now too late in the season, all you will wind up doing is hiking with some remaining snow in the bottom of the ravines. It is much better to go in April when there are still winter conditions, but with longer days and chance at better weather. If you have little to no experience, then hire a guide, you will learn a lot. Jim Shimberg and Steve Nichipor are both very good, there are plenty others as well.

Mike Belu · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 135

If your looking for glaciated peaks, I'd look into the volcanoes out west. Book with a guide service.

A lot do first timers do Rainier, Hood, or Shasta their first time.

Be ready, if you are not in shape for it, you might drag yourself up the mountain, but you won't enjoy it. Prepare for a long hard grind, you have to like suffering to some extent to like mountaineering.

For training, I like long trail runs and hiking with a heavy pack. Hours of hiking up and down the same hill if you have to.

Just my two cents.

Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492

Build on experiences. Take longer and longer backpacking trips. Practice carrying weights. Learn technical disciplines in a safe environment. Aim for non technical peaks, build to easy 5th class ones that can be done in a day. Learn to be comfortable with being uncomfortable. Learn faster than your luck runs out. Buy good gear. Mountains are just camping trips, only harder.

Troy Russell · · Fenton, MI · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 245

Lots of good suggestions.

I appreciate it.

I guess this summer, I'll try and do some more hiking/camping trips.

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725

Move to somewhere in the Rockies, Sierras, or Cascades. Climb a lot of rock and ice, working hard on moving fast and efficiently. Do a lot of hiking and trail running. Start by hiking up easy mountains and gradually do harder climbs. Spend some time reading up on glacier travel and crevasse rescue and log a bunch of time practicing before climbing glaciated peaks in the northwest.

Don't use a guide unless you just want to be a tourist. Methodically build your skills up, starting easy and gradually increasing the difficulty. You'll learn a lot even on easy peaks, and a broad base of experience makes pushing your limits much safer.

Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492
Keithb00ne wrote:Build on experiences. Take longer and longer backpacking trips. Practice carrying weights. Learn technical disciplines in a safe environment. Aim for non technical peaks, build to easy 5th class ones that can be done in a day. Learn to be comfortable with being uncomfortable. Learn faster than your luck runs out. Buy good gear. Mountains are just camping trips, only harder.
I have hired a few guides over the years and have never found even the best ones to be effective in learning a discipline. Their goal is usually to get you up something, not train you. Find a good mentor that you trust.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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