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Don Ferris III
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Jun 9, 2014
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Eldorado Springs
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 175
Going to Vedauwoo this weekend and just wondering what I should expect as far as grades go. I live and climb mostly in Eldo so how does it compare? Anything that is a must do out there? Also, what areas should I stick to if I want to get a good feel for it?
Thanks a bunch.
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Derrick W
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Jun 9, 2014
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Jun 2012
· Points: 585
Expect to get shut down...
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Brother Numsie
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Jun 9, 2014
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AnCapistan
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 880
Expect bleeding. Gobies. Lots of gobies.
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Sagar Gondalia
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Jun 9, 2014
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Golden
· Joined Jun 2006
· Points: 5
Agree with everything above. Expect to have an awesome time. The voo is a magical place. Head to Valley Massif if you're interested in some great moderate 2-3 pitch climbs. There are a number of 5.7-5.9 2-3 pitch crack systems that are a blast. Middle Parallel Space is my favorite climb in all of the voo. 5.9 OW to a cool chimney, handcrack, fingercrack with a slab finish. A little bit of everything. Ed's is indeed a great casual intro to the rock. Just to the right of it is a super cool climb called Satterfield's crack, which protects with wide gear but doesn't require any OW tech. For a true taste of the voo check out Mainstreet, which is the testpiece 10a OW there. Protects with 5s, 6s and big bros.
Mother #1 is the hardest 5.7 I've ever done. Fantasia, and Finally are both great 5.9 OWs. The MRC (mountaineer's rock climb) is also a super great line. The direct version goes at 5.9, and the left variation at 5.7, and they bring you to the base of a spectacular 5.9 handcrack called The Straight Edge.
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FrankPS
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Jun 9, 2014
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Atascadero, CA
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 275
Here's Clubber Lang's prediction for your trip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1TxiVhrkZA
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Joe Forrester
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Jun 9, 2014
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Palo Alto
· Joined Aug 2005
· Points: 1,235
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Leo Paik
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Jun 9, 2014
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Westminster, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 22,890
As far as grades go, the cracks feel harder than Eldo graded cracks to me. Lower end routes have less differences in grades than mid-grades 5.9 and up. The face climbs are fairly comparable...with the caveat the rock is different. As stated above, it is a fairly magical place...shorter though.
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Nick Votto
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Jun 9, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jul 2008
· Points: 320
I usually like longer approaches (less crowds) but Nautilus was awesome, and we saw nobody the 3 days there.....I loved Captain Nemo and Failure to Communicate, grades are pretty tough
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Buff Johnson
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Jun 9, 2014
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2005
· Points: 1,145
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