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What should I expect on my first trip to vedauwoo?


Original Post
Don Ferris III · · Eldorado Springs · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 175

Going to Vedauwoo this weekend and just wondering what I should expect as far as grades go. I live and climb mostly in Eldo so how does it compare? Anything that is a must do out there? Also, what areas should I stick to if I want to get a good feel for it?

Thanks a bunch.

Derrick W · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 207

Expect to get shut down...

Mike Lane · · Centennial, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 905

Expect bleeding.
Gobies. Lots of gobies.

Sagar Gondalia · · Golden · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 5

Agree with everything above. Expect to have an awesome time. The voo is a magical place. Head to Valley Massif if you're interested in some great moderate 2-3 pitch climbs. There are a number of 5.7-5.9 2-3 pitch crack systems that are a blast.
Middle Parallel Space is my favorite climb in all of the voo. 5.9 OW to a cool chimney, handcrack, fingercrack with a slab finish. A little bit of everything. Ed's is indeed a great casual intro to the rock. Just to the right of it is a super cool climb called Satterfield's crack, which protects with wide gear but doesn't require any OW tech. For a true taste of the voo check out Mainstreet, which is the testpiece 10a OW there. Protects with 5s, 6s and big bros.

Mother #1 is the hardest 5.7 I've ever done. Fantasia, and Finally are both great 5.9 OWs. The MRC (mountaineer's rock climb) is also a super great line. The direct version goes at 5.9, and the left variation at 5.7, and they bring you to the base of a spectacular 5.9 handcrack called The Straight Edge.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275

Here's Clubber Lang's prediction for your trip:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z1TxiVhrkZA

Joe Forrester · · Palo Alto · Joined Aug 2005 · Points: 1,180
Leo Paik · · Westminster, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 22,845

As far as grades go, the cracks feel harder than Eldo graded cracks to me. Lower end routes have less differences in grades than mid-grades 5.9 and up. The face climbs are fairly comparable...with the caveat the rock is different. As stated above, it is a fairly magical place...shorter though.

Nick Votto · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2008 · Points: 320

I usually like longer approaches (less crowds) but Nautilus was awesome, and we saw nobody the 3 days there.....I loved Captain Nemo and Failure to Communicate, grades are pretty tough

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

pain

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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