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Ma Ja · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 28

I bring up good belay theory at the end of every climbing day with my partners on the drive back home. If you are consistent about talking things through on the actual climbs you just experienced, with the actual people you're relying on, then you will end up with a good group of belayer's who are aware of the high expectations everyone wants as a leader. Talking about weight differences, slab, vert, overhung, ledges, huecos, etc. Obviously once everyone is on the same page, you can take it easy on the way back, but talking every now and again is still a good idea.

Minimal slack, with a good bunny hop is the best way to give a great catch (when weight differences are minimal). Having more slack in the system is just going to generate more force, and have the leader fall further, and it certainly is not part of any "soft catch" equation, with one exception... I do like having an extra foot or so of slack than normal until the leader's waist is a couple of feet past a clip.

Paul Deger · · Colorado · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 36
Short Beta wrote: If you can't competently lead belay with a Grigri, you shouldn't be climbing..

You had me until Grigri - its not the device, its the competence of the belayer.

other · · San Diego, CA · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 15
Cron wrote:

A 5 year old thread revived for this?

Also, it’s dumb that MP lets people thumbs-up their own posts. 

It’s dumb that Mp doesn’t allow thumbs down on crons post. Why should their be a time limit on belaying threads? Is belaying obsolete per cron?

John B · · Calgary · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 10

You could just get this guy to belay you

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 90
beth bennett wrote:...People love my belays because they get soft falls. I wish I could get the same.

Her belays bring all the boys to the yard, and they're like, it's better than yours. Damn right its better than yours.(she) can teach you, but (she has) to charge.

C Dup · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 5

Im a big fan of the bare hand frictionless belay myself
Nate Doyle · · Sierra Foothills · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 39
John B wrote: You could just get this guy to belay you

I'll see you and raise you.
Alex Fedorov · · New York City · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

Might be a very odd suggestion - but what about using yates(or any other brand) screamers in the situation where you have new or less experienced and heavier belayer and you got to the place where you are likely to take a whipper? it might get a little pricey but better than injuries... When climbing ice you definitely feel the difference when you fall on the screamer...  I am curious if there is a reason why it would not work - other then not being financially feasible? Just to be clear - i dont climb much rock and only very easy grades... i always preferred ice :) - so my experience on rock is limited 

Pavel Burov · · Russia · Joined May 2013 · Points: 50

Soft catch learning curve neither steep nor long. It takes half an hour to aquire soft catch basics. Way easier to educate a belayer versus relaying on some expensive hardware.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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