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Adrianne Wadewitz, 37, Wikipedia Editor, Dies After Rock Climbing Fall


Original Post
jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 4,562

Didn't see anything about this here but maybe I missed it.

nytimes.com/2014/04/19/busi…

Seems like an interesting woman. Don't know the details of the accident.

be safe out there.

Jim

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 275
ErikaNW · · Golden, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 145

Sounds like it was anchor failure?

supertopo.com/climbers-foru…

"Cathouse (03-29-2014)
A traditional anchor was built at the top of the Cathouse using three pieces of gear. The female victim started to rappel down the cliff face and one of the three anchor pieces pulled out. The victim stopped on a ledge and the male, who was still on top of the cliff, reincorporated the third (failed) piece back into the anchor. After being assured the anchor was now sound, the victim started to rappel again. The entire anchor then failed and the victim fell 15-20 feet, suffering fatal injuries."

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

Only 15-20 feet. Died from head injuries. Wear a helmet! (and that partner should quit climbing).

leon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 15

Too bad! Sounds like she just started climbing and was really passionate about it. A brilliant person too.

jon sherwood · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 25

I was there and assisted in the rescue she was wearing a helmet. I will continue to wear my helmet, but no longer put a lot of trust in it saving my life in a fall

jim.dangle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 4,562
jon sherwood wrote:I was there and assisted in the rescue she was wearing a helmet. I will continue to wear my helmet, but no longer put a lot of trust in it saving my life in a fall
Any details about the anchor failure?
Jackxc925 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

I wonder if a larger padded helmet, like a skate helmet, would protect your noggin from more than rockfall, unlike our typical helmets...

That's a pretty useless thought to offer, so let me just say rest in piece. Sad to hear.

jon sherwood · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 25

I do not know any more that what is already posted about the anchor failure

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30

I had 20' of ground fall once and my helmet allowed me to walk away without injury. I landed on my back and then my head hit the rock. I guess it could have been different if I had landed on my head. Helmets do help.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Helmets may help..but not having anchor failure helps a lot more.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,267

^^^

+1

Cornelius Jefferson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 105

Can't remember more then a couple of accidents with total anchor failure, ever. And this was a top rope setup. Really hope the novices out there get some proper instruction before they take responsibility for other peoples' safety.

I'm sure this is a life changing event for the anchor builder too. So sad all the way around. RIP.

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

I think I remember a thing in "Accident...." about 10% of lowering accidents being anchor failure !!

Of course 56%..56 % !!! was that the rope was to short..NO, you didn't tie a knot in the end..More than all the other factors combined.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

anchor failure is more like under 1%

A three point anchor, calling it bomber, and then it fails on a rap is just a head scratcher....meteorite impact I guess

john strand · · southern colo · Joined May 2008 · Points: 1,640

Looked it up last night Accidents in NA a study of 2003-2013 lowering accidents 10%...I read it 3x.

superkick · · Houston, TX · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

most anchor failure involves a factor 2 fall happening on it... for just rappel weight for all 3 cams to fail just kind of boggles my mind....

michael s... · · Denver, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 60

very sad.

rpb · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
ErikaNW wrote:Sounds like it was anchor failure? supertopo.com/climbers-foru… "Cathouse (03-29-2014) A traditional anchor was built at the top of the Cathouse using three pieces of gear. The female victim started to rappel down the cliff face...
I would like to suggest that when forwarding information within a community like this, you acknowledge that incomplete and bad information can spread as fast as normal rumors. This quote from SuperTopo at least clarified that they were not sure of the veracity, whereas here it is suggested as truth. Other ranger reports indicate that it was not fault on the part of the climber who placed the anchors, or that anchor failure was only part of the problem.
Dave Swink · · Boulder, Co · Joined Jun 2007 · Points: 285
rpb wrote: Other ranger reports indicate that it was not fault on the part of the climber who placed the anchors, or that anchor failure was only part of the problem.
Do you have a link to the other ranger reports? Anchor failure doesn't seem like a grey issue. I am baffled that a 3 piece anchor could fail under body weight, especially after being re-checked (if the early report was accurate), so it would be very interesting to hear of a different cause.

On the other hand, if the anchor and rope is laying on the ground.........
superkick · · Houston, TX · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 60

Im not too familiar with the area, but why were the rappelling off a built anchor (making a TR?)? Yuod think in making a tr with a toprope youd double/ triple check each cam when pulling on them ... This whole scenario just seems like she trusted the wrong person.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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