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New Grivel Twin Gate Carabiner


Original Post
Brian James · · Appleton, WI · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 100

Thoughts? I find it amazing how easily the guy rips normal carabiners off of a bolt/piton/ice screw and pulls a rope threw a normal carabiner.

Grivel New Twin Gate Carabiner youtube.com/watch?v=jkraPv-…

Dylan B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 521

I think it's a solution in search of a problem.

J W · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Feb 2004 · Points: 1,546
D.Buffum wrote:I think it's a solution in search of a problem.
+1
J. Kincaid · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

Agreed. Don't back clip and you shouldn't really have much problem with carabiners unclipping, making this new type unnecessary. That being said it's at least an interesting idea which some might find useful in it's extra security. I think I would spend too long fumbling around with trying to grab the right gate when clipping. I'd have to get my hands on one to see how much that would suck, but I won't buy one because I don't make a habit of back clipping and have never had anything unclip itself from my protection.

TheIceManCometh · · Albany, NY · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 621

Wow. I think that's a really cool idea.

I really wonder how easy they are to open with gloves on, especially the smaller sizes. I was surprised to see they're pretty strong. 30Kn, but the lightest is 2.0 oz. They'd have to get a lot lighter before I'd use them in quick draws.

As a substitute for a locking biner, I think the BD Magnetron achieves the same purpose.

I also wonder if there's a chance they could open by "fluttering" when catching a fall.

BGBingham · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2007 · Points: 60
D.Buffum wrote:I think it's a solution in search of a problem.
Only problem with your analysis is that it solves more than one problem.

I have had locking biners unscrew and come open using auto bloc bringing up two climbers.

My prediction is that this carabiner will be successful.
Luke Bertelsen · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 3,982

I must have this for my chalkbag and the trad gear that goes with my gym climbing harness.

drifen · · Austin, TX · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 10

This twin gate design reminds me of the bi-wire carabiner by Rock Exotica but the opposition of the two gates does seem to make it easier to work one-handed when clipping gear to the biner (at least in the marketing video).



I think though that having the gates pointing the same direction as on the bi-wire might make it easier to clip the biner to a bolt/pro.
NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85

I think it's overkill honestly. It solves a problem that doesn't really exist if a carabiner is used properly - just like any other piece of pro. Use a wired nut wrong, or a cam, or anything else - and you risk a mishap. Same with a 'biner.

Mark Hudon · · Lives on the road · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 420

A solution in need of a problem, I'd say. In 42 years of climbing I've never had a rope unclip itself from a biner. I'm sure it happens but its not something I'm going to worry about.

Nate Solnit · · Bath, NH · Joined May 2013 · Points: 0

I would put it in the same category as the BD magnetron 'biners. It's a fun gimic that makes certain things marginally safer or more convenient once you get the ergonomics down. But I wouldn't expect to see either as commonplace for anything but the odd belay/rap/anchor biner. That said I think both are interesting ideas and would love for one of my friends to buy one of these so I could play with it.

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85
Nate Solnit wrote:I would put it in the same category as the BD magnetron 'biners. It's a fun gimic that makes certain things marginally safer or more convenient once you get the ergonomics down. But I wouldn't expect to see either as commonplace for anything but the odd belay/rap/anchor biner. That said I think both are interesting ideas and would love for one of my friends to buy one of these so I could play with it.
Agreed! The Magetron is a costly solution to a problem that doesn't exist IMHO! I never had ANY of my lockers unlock on me in 30 yrs of climbing on and off! All it is is a marketing gimmick to spend money.
Short Beta · · Troy, MI · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 45

This reminds me of the debate between belaying with an ATC versus a Grigri. The Grigri is in no way designed to be held without a hand still on the brake rope, and you should always belay using the proper technique and never get into the habit of thinking you can belay without a hand on the brake rope. Use the Grigri like you would an ATC, and it's designed to be a last backup in case an accident happened.
The same idea applies to the Grivel Twin Gate Carabiner. Even with these carabiners, you should ALWAYS pay attention to back-clipping, and like the Grigri, the carabiner would act as a safety net in case you accidentally back-clipped. Overall it's a great idea but because there are still regular carabiners out there, one should never get into the habit of back-clipping on purpose.

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110
drifen wrote:This twin gate design reminds me of the bi-wire carabiner by Rock Exotica but the opposition of the two gates does seem to make it easier to work one-handed when clipping gear to the biner (at least in the marketing video). I think though that having the gates pointing the same direction as on the bi-wire might make it easier to clip the biner to a bolt/pro.
Yes, I was going to get a couple of these when they first came out, but got tired of them being on backorder, waiting for first delivery to supply Rock Exotica,,and then I just forgot to even get any. Looks awkward to use, but a nice safety feature for light weight biners.
Ken Noyce · · Layton, UT · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 2,415
brianjames wrote:Thoughts? I find it amazing how easily the guy rips normal carabiners off of a bolt/piton/ice screw...
except that in real life this isn't possible due to the fact that the rock or ice is in the way of the carabiner moving in the way that he does it in the video.

However, I do think that this is a cool concept for an easier to use locker for those times when you'd like the extra security of a locker, but don't want to mess around with a screwgate. As you can see in the video, you obviously can get pretty efficient at unclipping/clipping this thing with enough practice.
Eli Harry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 75

Not in a million years would I mess with this Biner on an ice climb... Could you even imagine trying to open the gate and cliping a screw with gloves on? Even my dry tools gloves get caught in the clip from time to time let alone ice gloves! Solution to a problem that doesn't exist... It'd be quicker to put on a locker probably because you wouldn't have to spin the barrel while in racking and would be safe while spinning the barrel if you were some kind of nervous weirdo that thought biners unclipped from pro all the time!!

NYClimber · · New York · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 85
Eli Harry wrote:Not in a million years would I mess with this Biner on an ice climb... Could you even imagine trying to open the gate and cliping a screw with gloves on? Even my dry tools gloves get caught in the clip from time to time let alone ice gloves! Solution to a problem that doesn't exist... It'd be quicker to put on a locker probably because you wouldn't have to spin the barrel while in racking and would be safe while spinning the barrel if you were some kind of nervous weirdo that thought biners unclipped from pro all the time!!
A friend had one at the indoor gym a few weeks ago and I tried it and didn't care for it at all. I had all I could with a ungloved hand to open it when I wanted to vs. trying to do so while ice climbing with gloves on, etc. I stick with my Twist Locks or Screw Gate 'biners. Less costly too....
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,395

Initial reports on these are quite positive. cold thistle blog in particular (a place that doesn't accept crap gear) likes them a lot. email to USA distributor indicates Spring '15 availability.

Also spotted the "double wire" version and it looks quite cool. I APPEARS as if Grivel designed the outer gate to act like a Hoodwire for the inner gate notch making it essentially a clean nose biner. Clever if so.

I see a few of these on my rack for mission critical pieces.

Grivel Twin Gate - Wires

Grivel Twin Wire Gate

Woodchuck ATC · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 3,110

I checked just a couple days ago,,,still NONE shown from the listed source to purchase here in the US....again,,like other items shown in Climbing and Rock and Ice ads,,,the ads precede the production by months and months sometimes....so I'm not expecting to find any until late spring,,if I even care by then anymore.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

I had a rope come unclipped from a pin on an aid route once. But only because I had clipped a biner directly into the pin and to the rope with no sling (ran out of draws), and it dident really matter as I had 30 other pieces clipped to the rope. Other than that, in 11 years of climbing I have never seen a rope accidentally come unclipped. That said, it has happened as mentioned on this forum, but it is rare.

mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,395
Woodchuck ATC wrote:I checked just a couple days ago,,,still NONE shown from the listed source to purchase here in the US....again,,like other items shown in Climbing and Rock and Ice ads,,,the ads precede the production by months and months sometimes....so I'm not expecting to find any until late spring,,if I even care by then anymore.
Ordered some from the UK. Will post up impressions.

20kn wrote:Other than that, in 11 years of climbing I have never seen a rope accidentally come unclipped. That said, it has happened as mentioned on this forum, but it is rare.
I've never had it happen in 22 years of climbing. That said, quoting another writer (who's name escapes me at the moment) "I do not believe it is irrational to prepare for very low-probability events which, should they occur, would produce the worst suffering imaginable for oneself and those one loves."

One can identify, for the most part, mission critical pieces and opt to implement means to increase their effectiveness. I'm hoping this tech aids in that effort a bit.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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