Mountain Project Logo

What brand of rubber do you prefer?

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

i like onyx best, primarily for reasons that reboot outlined (hardness versus friction). i think it does a good job of optimizing both of these as much as possible.

several folks have mentioned the inconsistencies in onyx - i definitely have noticed this. between new shoes with onyxx and resoles, i have probably had more than 20 different onyx soled pairs. two of these were terrible (one new pair, one resoled pair). there was just something wrong with the rubber and it was really slick. the other approximately 18 experiences have been really good though.

i like XSgrip ok, but it seems like if it is warmer than 60 degrees it turns into excess-slip.

XSedge is great for edging, but it feels like climbing on hockey pucks - if you aren't edging it has a dicey feel to it.

evolve traxx - i find that this climbs pretty well out of the box, but it seems to go downhill pretty quickly (both in edging and friction performance).

just my .02

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

Va - i'm surprised that you didn't find the galileos to be good edgin shoes. i think they are the best edging shoe available.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,349
"i'm surprised that you didn't find the galileos to be good edgin shoes. i think they are the best edging shoe available."

That surprises me a bit too, especially since so many climbers love them for just that purpose.

" It's the most expensive rubber R&R charges, the 4mm Edge being the least expensive."

I price them all the same...

;-)
Larry S · · Easton, PA · Joined May 2010 · Points: 872
VaGenius wrote: I've converted to using Tenayas and random 5.10s like the 5X that still rock C4. You really feel like Onyxx was an improvement on the Anasazi Velcro, especially for warm weather climbing?
FYI, They brought back the Anasazi in C4 - shopfiveten.com/P-5009020/A…
mattm · · TX · Joined Jun 2006 · Points: 1,885
reboot wrote:Harder routes of the same angle on textured rock (i.e., not limestone) typically have smaller footholds, which would require stiffer sole/harder rubber to stand on. It's not just a performance vs durability trade-off. The rubbers that are generally available for resole rank from softest to hardest at room temp: Trax, (C4, Grip), Grip 2, Onyx, Edge. The Stealth rubbers soften faster than others with increased temps, while the Edge is significantly harder than all other rubbers.
This +1. I use either edge or C4 depending on my needs. C4 sticks to smoother rock so when you're relying on smears etc it does well. As the temps get warmer though, C4 gets too soft and looses some advantages. I like C4 below 70 if at all possible.

Edge is my current preferred rubber. It's not as good as C4 on the pure smears but it's absolutely the best out there at not deforming on tiny edges and crystals. It also does well when the rock "bites" the rubber (sharp crystals etc). My granite is very coarse and the Edge is the cat's meow with it. I suspect places like the Gunks or the 'Voo would be good for Edge as well.

Polished granite ala yosmite though, C4 might win the day
reboot · · . · Joined Jul 2006 · Points: 125
VaGenius wrote:The fact that the rubber sloughed off like there was no tomorrow when I tried to stand on small edges is what bummed me out. The integrity of the rubber is what screwed me,
I don't remember the "bad" batch of Onyx (in the first few years it was available) I experienced had integrity issue, it simply felt slick if it's a little warm or a little humid or something. I had basically swore off it until Vibram stopped making Grip & resolers only had C4 & Edge. I noticed 5.10 added another "x" to Onyx & decided to give it another try. For a while it'd be frequently out of stock. Wonder if 5.10 had production issues & some bad patches got put on new shoes anyway.
NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

Update.

Have spent a some time climbing on my Miuras with C4 I feel confident in saying that it is stickier than the Evolv rubber that I was using. The change is noticeable, but not HUGE. In other words, I like it but it is not going to make me climb three letter grades better.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "What brand of rubber do you prefer?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.