.

A stick clip?

Stick clip with chained aiders?

Stickclip and a gri gri.

Tie the rope to an anchor on the ground, use a locker on the first bolt too, then lead it with a Gri Gri (or the like). No aid required!

go fourth and pussy-pole for the stars my son!

How are you getting up the route at all without a ground anchor? Bring a LONG stick (telescoping painter's pole) and you should be able to skip bolts. If the bolts are close, aid it like you would any other bolt ladder.

John Wilder wrote:Stick clip the first two bolts with knots on locking carabiners, jug up, do any anchor adjustment you need to, then stick clip up the route with a jumar and a grigri- unless you want to climb in between bolts, which is fine if the moves arent too bad. I'm lazy, though. Fix the line, rap off the other side, then do what you like. Make sure to feed a bunch of slack down the draw side of the rope with this method so you have enough rope to get back to the ground.

• Ettore 4.8ft to 16ft pole - Well constructed, easy to deploy and a small 4.8 ft when stored.
• Superclip - Super simple (unlike the squid), can easily clip the rope into a hanging draw, can easily unclip draws from bolts.

frankstoneline,
Never heard it called that in the 16 years I've been climbing. Awesome!
Thanks for the laugh.

How about rope soloing or free soloing (gasp!) an easier route that has a ground anchor available. Then when you're at the top, walking over to the climb you want to top rope.

Best solution is to find or make more friends who will belay you and work routes with you.

Just use the handles. That is why they're there. Although, I don't know why they don't make the handles bigger so you can get your whole hand in there instead of just one finger. ?? And put them closer together so you don't have to reach so far.

Brian wrote:Just use the handles. That is why they're there. Although, I don't know why they don't make the handles bigger so you can get your whole hand in there instead of just one finger. ?? And put them closer together so you don't have to reach so far.

frankstoneline wrote:go fourth and pussy-pole for the stars my son!