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Best 5.11 Cracks at Red Rock?


Original Post
Weston L · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Hey everyone,

The best .10 crack list has been well-circulated here for a while, but wanted to ask what the best single pitch 5.11 cracks are in the park?

I've done the Risk Brothers Roof (which is super fun), Yin and Yang (awesome and athletic), and Jam Session (not classic but athletic and steep)...I keep hearing great things about Gobies for Gumbies, and have been hoping to hop on Lizard Locks.

Anybody have any other personal favorites?

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 63

The last pitch of Cloud Tower is pretty sensational.
So is the crux pitch, but it climbs more like a stemming problem then a crack. I couldn't even get tips in for most of it. Awesome though!

Edit: sorry, missed the single pitch portion of your post. Those pitches are still amazing though!

Weston L · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Multi-pitch welcome as well, looking to work through a progression toward a few personal goals (Cloud Tower being one of them).

Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 1,645

Last pitch of Texas Hold Em. Not really 5.11, but incredible nonetheless. The crux (but weirdly not) pitch of The Warrior. Also not 5.11, but sure feels like 5.11.

GhaMby Eagan · · Heaven · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 385

Third pitch of Ixtalan looks sweet!

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 2,446

I thought Straight Shot on the Alcohol Wall was a fantastic 5.11+ crack/corner. And although I haven't done it The Eliminator crack looks mighty fine too. Lizard Locks and Chinese Handcuffs on the Monument are great too; 11b and 11+ respectively. Killis mentioned some other great routes as well. I did a crack with Matt Kuehl once in an area I can't recall the name of but it was a pretty awesome (read: true Creek style corner) 11a/b... Think Pink? Pink Tips? Something Pink. It's in the Handren guide.

I don't think RR is really the venue for concentrated single pitch 5.11 crack climbing but there are definitely some gems worth seeking out.

Weston L · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

As Killis alludes to, heading up the road a ways on the 15 will net far more options as it relates to stellar 5.11 cracks - I'm just looking for local .11 cracks to gain some skills on and then be able to export those.

Andy, I'll try to seek out that mystery crack you and Matt climbed. A trip to Zion will be in order once temps return to "not arctic" there.

That third pitch of The Warrior is remarkable...one of my favorite pitches I have ever done. Physical, exposed, and hell... I only followed it.

The OW on Ixtlan is superb with a strange crux thrown in for the hell of it. Awesome climb overall.

Texas Hold 'Em is very high on my "to-do" list once I get strong enough...as are Shune's Buttress in Zion and Cloud Tower here.

Thanks for the recommendations and keep 'em coming!

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
5th Pitch- 40m- 5.11d
Unfinished Symphony, 5th Pitch- 40m- 5.11d

6th Pitch- 40’- 5.11a
Spectrum, 6th Pitch- 40’- 5.11a

4th Pitch- 100’- 5.11d
Time's Up, 4th Pitch- 100’- 5.11d

7th Pitch- 110’- 5.11c
Cloud Tower. 7th Pitch- 110’- 5.11a

3rd Pitch- 120’- 5.10d
The Warrior, 3rd Pitch- 120’- 5.10d (5.11- for many depending on size)

1st -3rd Pitches- 200’- 5.11c
Ixtlan, 5.11c, 1st -3rd Pitches- 200’- 5.11c (I find it best to combine them with a 70m)

I have climbed most routes at RR within my ability...but got on a single pitch 5.10 this past weekend that was fantastic...most variable single pitch at RR so far for me...Out of Control, 5.10c...been overlooked by me as I am almost always climbing multi pitch routes...fingers, hands, one fist, one arm bar/heel toe and roof. I am sure many of you have been on it.
Patrick Mulligan · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 1,070

Out of Control is one of my favorite routes in Red Rock and its good to see its getting traffic these days. When I climbed it in 2001, it looked like it hadn't seen an ascent in years. To this day the best single hard .10 pitch I've done.

Weston L · · Summerlin, NV · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

Dude, I hadn't done it until this past weekend. O M G. So good! It's no secret I have a love affair with The Fox, and I totally felt like I was cheating, but....OOC is right up there for me. As Dow mentions, the variety is fantastic. Being a shorter guy with an IQ lower than my height, the roof was entertaining for me.

RE: Dow's recommendations...Ixtlan is great and the OW stellar. The corner pitch on the Warrior might be one of my favorite pitches I have ever been on. 5 stars for sure! Time's Up, Cloud Tower, and finishing Unfinished Symphony (got 3 pitches up after a super-alpine start a month ago) are high on the list.

Derek Doucet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 63

Unfinished Symphony looks totally desperate! Anybody done the whole thing? Ive only looked at it rapping La Cierta Edad.

Brian Prince · · morro bay, ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 1,682

Cole Essence is pretty freakin awesome. But yeah, mainly stemming of a sort.

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
Derek Doucet wrote:Unfinished Symphony looks totally desperate! Anybody done the whole thing? Ive only looked at it rapping La Cierta Edad.
yes, but just the one crux pitch (which was no more difficult than Ixtlan for me) as I showed you in the photo above...the route goes fast otherwise...and not overly entertaining...but of course that pitch is well worth the trip

unfinished-symphony
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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