Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014

Cdec-

No ice in Joes, does that include Marys Lake?

Didn't look like it from the reservoir.

White Nightmare and Bridal Veil

Checked out White Nightmare this morning, pretty thin.

The Apron is "in" enough to climb, and we burned a few TR laps on it. Wet and soft but decent.

The Apron

In case anyone is wondering, nothing in the Bridal Veil area is safe to lead. Everything was gushing like a fire hose too. Also checked out the ice further east in Provo. Parts of Millers Thriller and the first pitch of The Fang are in, but just as juicy as the rest of Provo Canyon. If it freezes at night you might be able to get some laps in. Bring the Gore-Tex! It felt a little colder this morning than the Provo Canyon weather station showed.

In case people are curious about weather and don't have it bookmarked, I like this page:
wrh.noaa.gov/slc/current/me…

The apron

If you do choose to hit the apron stay far left as there is a ton of rock and ice fall from the right side. Bring goretex pants at a minimum!

Great stuff, Please Keep posting Pix and updates.

some quick pics of provo canyon today.

That picture of the Stairway show some good improvement from Yesterday. Looks good
dallen

Garret and I climbed the full first pitch of Stairway. Needs some buildup. 2nd pitch and higher is just icicles and very thin smears at the moment.

The top out of Stairway was hairy. No real ice to speak of, just snow and choss. Here's the Bridal Veil area from today (12/5). Honestly the best looking ice might have been on the first pitch of The Fang or All Is Quiet. Not exactly much competition though.

Bridal Veil Falls area 12/5/13.

Priceicle is still...the same. Hacked up and forming about as quickly as we all chop it up. Brittle as porcelain and colder than a witches tit down there in that hole. Not a very fun lead, got some epic screaming barfies.

Priceicle 12/6/13

Soloed first 2 pitches of GWI and bailed yesterday afternoon. It's wet and plastic with lots of flowing water underneath on P2, which surprised me given the temperatures this past week.

Was my first time on UT ice and second day out this season, so I was still pretty psyched just to sink the tools in. I'm still new to the area and not likely to do much skiing, so shoot me a message if you're looking for a partner to climb with.

Chris

The fang
The fang as of saturday.

I'm guessing that's the second pitch of the fang where the death-tube should be? Avy forecast is high right now though.

Storm Mountain Falls is forming, but very thin right now.

Psychobabble Gully also has some ice in it.

Provo climbed well yesterday 12/7. 5 or 6 separate lines on the 1st pitch of stairway are fat enough to lead with good gear. The rest is progressing nicely ice forming up well through p5.
Parties also on Bridal Veil left and right. White nightmare looks like it would go as well.

Lots of parties out in Provo Canyon today. Climbed White Nightmare and Bridal Veil Right. White Nightmare has a downpour coming off the right and left sides of the curtain. Bring your Gore-Tex. Standard terrifying snow/ice/rock/slush top-out to both of those.

Bridal Veil Left was looking pretty stout and mushroomy.

Bridal Veil Right 12/8/13

White Nightmare 12/8/13

Great White Icicle is in and pretty fat.

GWI 12/9/13

found a screw on the last pitch of the gwi today. mesage me with a description so I can get it back to its owner! p.s. love the thread, keep it up!

Climbed Provo Canyon today. Apron is looking great, second pitch of Stairway is still trying. Bridal Veil area is still looking great and forming actively.

Went down to Santaquin today. Angel of Fear is not in. ACT is thin and not touching on the second pitch. Candlestick is touching and down, but in full on WI6 conditions.

Squash Head's first curtain was wet and chandeliered. Wouldn't take screws. We decided to skip it. Upper pitch looked like it was in reasonable shape.

Squash Head 12/11/13

Backoff was actively forming. First pitch was kind of funky. Foolishly soloed up it thinking it was good all the way to the bolts but ended up bailing before the end of the first pitch. Needs another week or two to form into solid leading conditions.

Backoff 12/11/13

Kitty Litter wall was the consolation prize on the way home. Can't beat that approach with a stick.

Kitty Litter Wall 12/11/13