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Utah Ice Conditions, 2013 - 2014


Original Post
Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

So I've been hoping this thread would pop up for a while now, even though for the vast majority of routes it's still pretty early - but now I have some ice to report on and therefore a legitimate reason to get the ball rolling on my favorite thread on MP.

Followed Alec up into the Robert's Horn area of Timp and spied a bunch of smears all over, and what I think is "Picture Window" (which looked really fat - pic below). Alec led about 60 meters of screw-protectable WI3 on the east face of Robert's before it got too thin. We continued for approximately 2 rock/snow pitches further but it didn't seem to be anywhere near as good as the lower 60 meters.

View of the route

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the middle of the pitch

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michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

glad to see this is rolling, look forward to finally getting some utah ice in. I've seen you around on satans corner and pentapitch area Sam. I am from Colorado and will be there around thanksgiving and again in december. Hopefully some ice comes in for me!

Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Nice yeah I remember meeting you! If you ever need a partner here in UT feel free to send me a PM and I'll message you my #.

Kai Larson · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 250

Ice on the flank of the Sundial, by Lake Blanche. November 10, 2013

Sundial Ice

Sun Dial Ice

Garret Nuzzo-Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,446

Drove by the dirtcicle today. Climbable but might be kind of a crap lead. Chandeliered and wet. Classic early season shower climb.

Ian Hanson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 2,685

I´m headed back to Utah for a few weeks in December. Hope to see some of you guys around on some ice!

John Cameron · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 330

Here is how the the dirtcicle was looking on 11/10/13. I drove back by it today and it was even a bit thinner.

11/10/13

Alan Rousseau · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 40

I went up to the sundial ice and did some laps on it today. The ice is about 130' long. And has steps to about 80 degrees. It was building all day and never gets sun.

Ice

RICHBLISS · · Lindon, UT · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60
Sundial Ice

Another Pic of Sundial Ice from last Friday.
steven sadler · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 35

any word on how Joe's is doing? I'll be down there this weekend and will let you guys know.

Josh Allred · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 165

Any ice for the weekend? Looks like clear skies in mid-40s this weekend.

steven sadler · · SLC, UT · Joined May 2010 · Points: 35

According to weather.com/weather/tenday/…
the weather in Joe's Valley has been snow/rain for the last few days and light snow on Saturday. I'm new to ice climbing but early Saturday morning sounds like there could be something good. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks for the quick reply.

Matt Selman · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 200

Steven, while I haven't been up there in a month or so, I'd guess that it's still early for Joe's--it will probably take a more significant cold snap to put those routes into shape. That said, you might have better success up at Mary's Lake, since it's significantly higher with a more consistent aspect. Doubters like me gonna doubt, though, so let us know what you find if you do head up there.

Sam Cannon · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined May 2012 · Points: 924

Climbed the Sundial ice today; actually not a bad pitch of WI3. Better than I thought it would be. However, it's a slog in, and the more snow we get the worse it will be. Waist deep postholing (tomb-stoning?) ended up creating about a 3 hr approach. For future reference, however, it's not a bad early season flow to hop on when the snow is low.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 505

Here's a link to the weather station on the Dam in Joe's.
Wind, Precip, and Temps.
Temperature graph going back a year if you want it.
Webcams as well. Can't see any of the climbing but can see if there is snow.

ewcd.org/weather/joes-valle…

Post up conditions thinking of making the trip monday morning.
A swing through Huntington is recommended as each canyon comes in differently.

Wally29 · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 40

How do you get off of the sundial?
Is there a walk off, rap anchor, v-thread etc?
Thanks!

RICHBLISS · · Lindon, UT · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 60
Wally29 wrote:How do you get off of the sundial? Is there a walk off, rap anchor, v-thread etc? Thanks!
Wally29, it's a full 60m climb so if you have 2 ropes you can come down in one rappel. If not there are 2 spots to rappel. Facing down the route from the top it's just to right off a large Pine tree. The second rap is just below off a dead tree.
Garret Nuzzo-Jones · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 1,446

The pricecicle is getting pretty badly chopped up. Leadable still if you get it in the morning.

Eli Harry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 75
repel down

Climbed Roberts horn ice yesterday... Did about 120 feet of mostly ice with a little bit of crappy loose rock covered in thin ice thrown in there. it's definitely protect-able but you gotta kinda go where the ice is to find a nice screw placement. Plan to bring rock gear to climb higher and walk off or V-Thread off.

Bring snow shoes or skis, we were in thigh deep snow the last 1/2 mile.

oh and we saw 5 moose on the way up so try not to get trampled!
cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 505

Just back from Joe's and Huntington. Nothing is even close to in.
There is no ice on any climb at all except for CCC which looked like this.

CCC 11/25

It's just too dry.
Did 2 laps on "ol reliable" The Dirtcicle which is in good shape.

Dirtcicle 11/25

Pray for snow and colder temps or just go rock climbing.

Alan Rousseau · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 40

I went into Provo to dry tool today and was surprised by some ice. At the end of the day I took a couple laps on the left side of the apron. Wet but well bonded ice.

Stairway

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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