Planning a rock climbing vacation this winter?


Original Post
John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451
Rob D. · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

Is there a cheaper way to get there? Looking up tickets and its exactly ten times what I paid for my trip to puerto rico over the summer.

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451
Rob Davis wrote:Is there a cheaper way to get there? Looking up tickets and its exactly ten times what I paid for my trip to puerto rico over the summer.
I don't know what you paid for PR but I just ticketed yesterday for $595 Denver-Cayman Brac in March. Spring Break and Xmas-New Years are always higher.

Unless you live near an airport that has direct Saturday flights to Grand Cayman (eg. New York, Atlanta, Miami) try a travel agent. I've found that they always do better than I can find both on price and times.
dave wave · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 25

Looks awesome!!!

5.samadhi · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 40

any more pics of the sport climbing?

John Byrnes · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 451
5.samadhi wrote:any more pics of the sport climbing?
You mean in addition to all the photos at the two links I posted? Try here:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/cayman-brac/106458273

Burrow down to the individual route descriptions.
OldManRiver · · Cottonwood Heights, UT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 95

Going to Dominican Republic with the lady friend for 15 days in December. We're hoping to climb at least a few days.. if we could get 5 or more that would be great.

Cooba looks incredible, I'd love to check it out :)

Mike Lane · · Centennial, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 905

I have images of shredded tips in my mind. Has anyone been working on filing off the edges or whatever rips fingers up down there? Are most routes actually friendly? Would love to consider this as a destination.

Robbie Mackley · · Tucson, AZ · Joined May 2010 · Points: 85

^^^Comfortizing Holds? Maybe I'm naive, but is this really an accepted practice amongst developers? I'm familiar with the whole "creative cleaning" philosophy, employed to avoid having one 5.13 move in the middle of what could be an awesome, 100 foot 5.10 pitch etc. But filing edges to save tips?
Just a question, sorry for the thread jack.
-Mackley

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,230
"But filing edges to save tips?"

That's a new one on me as well. I have the feeling Mike isn't serious. If he is? Well, dude's a nut! To be expected.

;-)
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 4,813

Limestone pockets are often pretty nasty without a little dulling of the edges and spikes. With traffic they would be worn down anyway, but very few will enjoy the initial process of wearing them down by hand and foot.

Eric Engberg · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 0
Locker wrote:"But filing edges to save tips?" That's a new one on me as well. I have the feeling Mike isn't serious. If he is? Well, dude's a nut! To be expected. ;-)
Ever climb at Wild Iris? Or anyplace in southern Europe?
Ed Wright · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2006 · Points: 285

I have no problem comfortizing sharp limestone holds but I would never create a hold where one did not naturally exist.

Mike Lane · · Centennial, CO · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 905
Ed Wright wrote:I have no problem comfortizing sharp limestone holds but I would never create a hold where one did not naturally exist.
Same here, and I'll add that doing so really does not affect the route's difficulty up or down. It is a far cry from actual chipping. It can make the difference between 'fuck this place' to 'hell ya!'
WDW4 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 188
Mike Lane wrote: Same here, and I'll add that doing so really does not affect the route's difficulty up or down. It is a far cry from actual chipping. It can make the difference between 'fuck this place' to 'hell ya!'
I disagree. Modification of routes can be a good thing I guess - I do hope the first few climbers on a route trundle some blocks that are going to eventually come down when people climb, rather than leaving those blocks there for some careless or unlucky climber to dislodge onto the delayer.

However, differentiating between "chipping" and "filing" requires some pretty specific definitions. They both involve modifying hand or foot holds. They both make the route easier/more comfortable to do. They both bring a route down to the climbers level, rather than requiring the climber to rise to the rock.

In instances where the rock is particularly soft, and repeated traffic will produce the same wear anyway, I guess it doesn't make much of a difference. All the same, I'd rather everyone keep their files away from the rocks I climb.
WDW4 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 188
Ed Wright wrote:I have no problem comfortizing sharp limestone holds but I would never create a hold where one did not naturally exist.
Ed probably climbs harder and has more experience than me, but this statement seems a little nonsensical. It seems as though this statement distilled to its essence could be rephrased:

"I have no problem modifying holds that are hard to hang onto to make them easier to hang onto, but I would never modify the rock in spots that are hard to hang onto to make them easier to hang onto."
rocknice2 · · Montreal, Quebec · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 3,018

I think what Ed meant is

"I have no problem modifying holds that are painful to hang onto to make them less so, but I would never modify the rock in spots that are hard to hang onto to make them easier to hang onto."

WDW4 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 188
rocknice2 wrote:I think what Ed meant is "I have no problem modifying holds that are painful to hang onto to make them less so, but I would never modify the rock in spots that are hard to hang onto to make them easier to hang onto."
Doesn't make a difference. "I don't want to try to hang onto that rock in its current state, so I will modify it".

There are a few thousand more pressing problems in the world, and a few hundred in the realm of climbing. While we're on the topic, though, I think the contradiction I've addressed is worth pointing out. Fundamentally, it is modification of the rock in order to make it easier to climb on.
Mark E Dixon · · Sprezzatura, Someday · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 549
WDW4 wrote: Doesn't make a difference. "I don't want to try to hang onto that rock in its current state, so I will modify it". There are a few thousand more pressing problems in the world, and a few hundred in the realm of climbing. While we're on the topic, though, I think the contradiction I've addressed is worth pointing out. Fundamentally, it is modification of the rock in order to make it easier to climb on.
Have you climbed on much limestone, or ever developed any new routes at limestone crags? Something tells me you haven't.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Limestone varies in strength. My new routing experience was in Bermuda, the rock was sharp and featured. It really hurt. We often referred to the holds as "character building". Within a few ascents though, our shoes had done the same work a file would have done.

Not sure about cayman, it looks a bit harder. It might take a few more ascents to wear it down.

It's a gray area for sure. Very few people commenting here have put up routes anywhere. Many of them don't even realize how modified the routes they climb every weekend are.

Back on topic, I have a sister living on grand. She says it is a $70 flight to brac. She also says there is a dive boat that'll visit Cuba for a day. Sounds fun. I'll be sure to visit her soon.

Locker · · Yucca Valley, CA · Joined Oct 2002 · Points: 2,230
"Ever climb at Wild Iris? Or anyplace in southern Europe?".

No! But I'm sure it would be fun.

"They both involve modifying hand or foot holds. They both make the route easier/more comfortable to do. They both bring a route down to the climbers level, rather than requiring the climber to rise to the rock.

In instances where the rock is particularly soft, and repeated traffic will produce the same wear anyway, I guess it doesn't make much of a difference. All the same, I'd rather everyone keep their files away from the rocks I climb."


Pretty much a DITTO here.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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